Quote:
Originally Posted by ChevyRacefan
Hello,
The front I have 2.5" spindles and 3" springs. and rear, 3-5" springs (guess depends on weight in back, long bed would drop more than a short)
And 2.5" blocks.
Should I Assume I will need a c-notch. And the no hop trailing arm cross member mounts.
The front springs might change to 2" if the 3" drops it too much.
I figured the 50 year old originals, had sagged at least an inch. So going by where it sits now+1" . won't know till the parts go on.
The rear will Then need adjustment to my ballpark needed drop, to level it to front. will do that with the blocks,
Should I just plan on notching, and the long arm mounts?
I know I will be needing shims to get the pinion angle in check, have those.
The shock relocation brackets, I am going to assume will be needed, Some say they put the shocks outside the frame, does that limit wheel width? Are they all outside the frame rail?
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The T/A front adjustable mounts certainly won't be a bad addition. If they're a 'necessity' is user subjective. My 68 & other trucks I'd done survived many years just fine w/o a modified front mount. I do feel they're worth the effort.
As far as notching the frame, I would wait until you dial in the stance & make the decision @ that time. If cutting the frame isn't necessary for travel, there's no sense in doing so because it weakens the frame (even w/the c-notch plating installed). Keep the frame as strong as possible & don't mod it unless it's absolutely required.
As far as the rear drop info.... A 2.5" lowering block is excessive if you aren't running 18-20" wheel diameters. A 15" wheel will have scrub-line contact issues w/a 1.5" block & could be an issue if experiencing a blow-out @ speed on the highway.