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Old 07-31-2020, 08:07 AM   #4
wixthedog
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Magnolia, TX
Posts: 225
Re: Battery Cables and Battery Relocation?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dead Parrot View Post
Unless there is some unstated reason for putting the battery on the driver's side of the bed, I would put it on the passenger side. That way the ground cable goes straight down through the bed to a frame ground bolt. The positive cable becomes much shorter as well. I would suggest putting the disconnect switch under the bed rail. Keeps it out of the worst of the sun and rain. From the passenger side, the cables won't be much longer then the OEM cables that run from the front fender corner. Might save the need for 1/0 cables. Just go to the next larger size from OEM.

If you go with the driver's side, get some matching lengths of 1" or 2" square tube and bolt lengthwise to the bottom of the tool box. Will let you run the cables under/behind the box. Still recommend bolting the disconnect under the bed rail. Same for running the ground straight down to the frame.
A couple reasons why my intentions were to mount the disconnect switch in the box on the drivers side: I can reach it easily as I intend on using it when I park sometimes as a theft deterrent of sorts and it will keep cables inside the box rather than departing, re-entering, and then departing.

I had some thought to running the round direct down from the drivers side to reduce length but at that size cable it would be fine running to the passenger side and I would rather keep it to one exit/entry path if possible.

I had the same plan on protecting the cables in the box! Some 1.5" aluminum square bolted inside the box will offer nice protection. I'll have to fab up some sort of dividing wall to keep items away from the battery/switch as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillac_al View Post
The stock location is just so darned convenient I would be too lazy to add more cable and another solenoid/failure point.
I've done quite a bit of work to the engine bay and my next task, after this, is to fab up some custom wheels tubs. (Check out my build thread if you like, link in signature). Non-AC truck and no battery makes for a pretty clean look - I hope.

I am still on the fence about the Ford solenoid. I think it does add some value for hot start conditions as you get more amperage to the starter. You also get to reduce wires from around the headers to just the one big one. It would be nice to connect my remote starter switch when doing engine work there instead of crawling under the truck too, but not a 'have to have' kind of thing for sure.
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Mike
1976 C10 RCLB - 350 - SM465 4 Spd - 4.5"/6" Drop
Obligatory Build Thread HERE!
1979 C20 RCLB - 350 - TH350 Auto
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