Quote:
Originally Posted by shortbed70
How do you check the gauge at the cluster?
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One side of the gauge has power (12vdc) the other side goes to the tank. The float moves a variable resistor that goes to ground. In case you don't know what a variable resistor is, it is like a volume knob on a radio. More or less resistance is created as the float swings up and down.
If you disconnect the non powered side of the gauge and jump it to ground the gauge should move.
I don't remember which way. I think no ground and the gauge will show FULL and complete ground will make the gauge show EMPTY. I MAY HAVE THIS BACKWARDS.
To do this; Disconnect the plug from the gauge and check both wires with a test light or meter to find which one is 12vdc. Then supply only the 12v powered connector of the gauge with 12vdc.
You may need to make a small testing wire with a male blade on one end and female blade on the other end to have the plug off and still supply the gauge with 12v. Then use a jumper wire on the other side of the gauge to jump to ground.
DON'T jump the 12v STRAIGHT to ground or you will blow the fuse.
Also I have a permanent ground wire on my cluster. I'm not sure but I think the gauge itself is grounded through the cluster. So you may need to use a jumper to ground the cluster. I would use a jumper with 2 alligator clips to do this or make a permanent ground for your cluster like mine has. If you do make a permanent ground on your cluster your lights will work better and that's definitely a plus.
Other things to consider is the wire that runs between the gauge and the tank, and the ground from the sending unit on the tank.
The sending unit can have spots that are not consistent and cause the gauge to not read correct. That is what is wrong with mine. It shows full when it is full but when it is 3/4 full the gauge shows 1/2 a tank.