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SeventyOne · 06-22-2011, 01:46 PM

I have all the manuals/guides/walkthroughs for the rebuild on my home computer. I will try to post links to where I found them.

Rather than PM this info it might be nice to post the info here so it is a record for anyone else wanting to rebuild a NP205:

Rebuild Kit: I bought a full rebuild kit from NorthWestFab (google it). It came with all the bearing, small parts, and seals needed. There were some parts I didn't use because I didn't fully disassemble the rear output shaft to change out the needle bearings. It would have been a major pain in the ass, two of the 3 write ups skipped the step, and my case was so clean and showed only minor wear I thought it was ok to skip. Price was about $220.

Things to watch out for:

I did not do this but IF I were to do another I would powerwash the case before I disassemble.

Bag each assembly (input shaft, front output shaft, rear output shaft, idler assembly, etc) as you remove the parts. If you are a forgetful person you may want to take pics as you disassemble - the write ups also have a ton of pics to help you out though.

Once apart: I wiped down and cleaned anything else that needed it, and masked, primed, and painted the case.

Reassembly: Tricky part #1 = the shift rail insertion. You need to put the first rail in to a certain point WITH the shift fork attached (but not yet pinned) in order to get the 2nd rail in all the way. Once the 2nd rail is in you can insert the 1st rail all the way and pin both shift forks. I did this wrong, I put the first rail in with the shift fork, pinned it and then had a dumb look on my face when I was unable to get the 2nd rail all the way in. I ended up having to un-pin the fork, pull the rail out part way, put the 2nd rail in with the shift fork, then insert the 1st rail in all the way before pinning both forks.

Tricky Part #2 = Shift fork roll pin insertion. Obviously when you shift the transfer case you are moving the shift rails which in turn move the shift forks around. The roll pins are what keep the shift rails attached to the forks. To save you a headache pre-tap the pins into the top of each fork enough to seat it. then when you are ready to drive the pins in (after completing the shift rail insertions) they will already be seated and easier to drive into the rail holes.

Everything else was pretty straight forward...

06-22-2011, 01:46 PM	#103
SeventyOne Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Oakland, Ca Posts: 1,372	Re: The "In over my head" build thread I have all the manuals/guides/walkthroughs for the rebuild on my home computer. I will try to post links to where I found them. Rather than PM this info it might be nice to post the info here so it is a record for anyone else wanting to rebuild a NP205: Rebuild Kit: I bought a full rebuild kit from NorthWestFab (google it). It came with all the bearing, small parts, and seals needed. There were some parts I didn't use because I didn't fully disassemble the rear output shaft to change out the needle bearings. It would have been a major pain in the ass, two of the 3 write ups skipped the step, and my case was so clean and showed only minor wear I thought it was ok to skip. Price was about $220. Things to watch out for: I did not do this but IF I were to do another I would powerwash the case before I disassemble. Bag each assembly (input shaft, front output shaft, rear output shaft, idler assembly, etc) as you remove the parts. If you are a forgetful person you may want to take pics as you disassemble - the write ups also have a ton of pics to help you out though. Once apart: I wiped down and cleaned anything else that needed it, and masked, primed, and painted the case. Reassembly: Tricky part #1 = the shift rail insertion. You need to put the first rail in to a certain point WITH the shift fork attached (but not yet pinned) in order to get the 2nd rail in all the way. Once the 2nd rail is in you can insert the 1st rail all the way and pin both shift forks. I did this wrong, I put the first rail in with the shift fork, pinned it and then had a dumb look on my face when I was unable to get the 2nd rail all the way in. I ended up having to un-pin the fork, pull the rail out part way, put the 2nd rail in with the shift fork, then insert the 1st rail in all the way before pinning both forks. Tricky Part #2 = Shift fork roll pin insertion. Obviously when you shift the transfer case you are moving the shift rails which in turn move the shift forks around. The roll pins are what keep the shift rails attached to the forks. To save you a headache pre-tap the pins into the top of each fork enough to seat it. then when you are ready to drive the pins in (after completing the shift rail insertions) they will already be seated and easier to drive into the rail holes. Everything else was pretty straight forward...