Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironangel
...only change I had to make was shortening the front shaft 1" and having the drive shaft shop weld a 1350 yoke to the end to match the 1350 slip yoke. I bought the clam shell carrier bearing...
... The only time you want a fixed yoke on the trans is because there is a slip joint on the other end of that shaft. The two piece shaft assembly behind an automatic trans should have a slip yoke at the trans output shaft and a solid shaft through the carrier bearing. A bolt on Yoke with splines will bolt to the end of that (primary) shaft. The final or (secondary) shaft may or may not be a solid shaft. It depends on what carrier bearing was used, there were two types. One is a clam shell design that hangs on a stem, the other is a pillow block design that is U shaped and bolts on each side. Which carrier bearing does your truck have?
The clam shell carrier bearings are designed to flex fore and aft as the rear axle articulates up and down. The pillow block carrier bearings had splined slip joints on the second yoke. That allowed the second shaft to move with the axle and slip on the splines without stressing the carrier bearing.
...your going to need to keep the crank and trans centerline...
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The current transmission (SM465) has a fixed yoke and the pillow block style carrier bearing. slip yoke on the rear drive line.
I know how to set up driveline angles & phasing, not a problem, just trying to figure out the correct configuration
Since I have the slip joint on the rear shaft it seems reasonable to use the fixed yoke on the trans...I think?
It sounds like that's not how they were from the factory though?
I'd kinda like to replicate the factory setup if possible. On the other hand, easy is good.
Its the same price for either trans yoke, I just need to tell the transmission builder which one I want.
The factory setup had a slip yoke on front and rear driveshaft?