Quote:
Originally Posted by LH Lead-Foot
No photos of rear caliper yet, but every post is good information. As a retired ASE Master tech, I grew in the age or rebuilding components, not opening boxes.
When it comes to rear disc w/E-brake, the piston screws in for new pads or out for service. Working the lever to advance the piston(s) toward the rotor is required. Yes, it take a long time to get all of the air out the line to both rear calipers, but you indicated 1000 - 1500 lbs. with little fluid. You will not get as much as front in normal conditions, but you have all aftermarket components with a knob on the proportioning valve. You're on your own there with customer service on speed dial.
I don't know what the answer is for your magical mystery tour of 2018's winner of the most expensive/longest brake job... and still no rear brakes.
Your pressure should work and the rears take little volume to move the piston(s).
Pressure bleeder, yes! Buddy pumping the pedal, press twice, then hold. Open blender screw, pedal drops. Repeat until no more bubbles. Easy right?
In short, everything should work! I know as well as anyone, that to go fast, you need to stop very well. But WoW, surrr do look perrrty!
Glad I used all GM parts to get disc brakes on my 1967 C10.
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Thanks for the response. I started out this journey with just a front disc conversion. All seemed good, then I decided to go to a rear disc conversion using all GM equipement, rear calipers are from 1980-1985 Cadillac Seville, rotors are from 1990s GM truck, all 6 bolt pattern. I bought a disc/disc prop. Valve and got no rear brakes. Worked and worked on them, bleeding for hours, still no brakes. Replaced all hard lines, checked for leaks, still to pressure at rear brakes. Front worked great. In this time, I found the rims I wanted, but they came only in 5 lug, so I changed out to 5 lug. Not hard really, not to expensive, but still no brakes. After all this and so frustrated I contacted WilWood. They emailed me quickly and we emailed a couple times. In this time I decided to just go all out and get Wilwood system front and rear. It is their lowest set, but nice stuff. I have not tried them yet because I need to order new flexible lines at each caliper due to different banjo size, BUT the calipers take standard GM brake shoes, D52 and D154. So this weekend I'll install the new lines and give them a shot.
After all this, not sure who was the first to mention it, but I believe the issue wuth the original GM stuff is as you said adjusting the rear caliper piston, of which I did not do, nor did the instructions I got did not mention doing this and I have never really worked with this type of caliper before.
Oh well, the new Wilwoods look nice and are rebuild able. Not that this justifies getting the Wilwoods, but I like them.
I'll post how the new Wilwoods work. Lol now I'll have a full rear conversion to sell. Lol