I may have said in here before, but if not Ill just say - I really dislike the live oil pressure gauge and the fact it has oil running into the cab. Mainly because it makes a leak point that can get all over the back of the dash and on you. I tried 3 lines and could never get it to seal. So I began to look for some way to move to an electric gauge. Here's what I did:
1981 sender and gauge from LMC.
Temp & ammeter gauge 'plate' from a 67-72.
Removed face, needle from the 67-72 mechanical gauge
Removed face, needle from the 1981 C10.
The 67-72 gauge has a face plate and a mounting plate, I glued these together with SEM panel adhesive.
I then took the 1981 gauge and tossed the face and needle, and began to line up the face, I had to drill a new hole about .5" up for the needle, and drilled two holes in the face to mount to the gauge.
I used two sheet metal style screws to secure the face, they feel solid and are not visible in the cluster. The needle is the same style and fits on the new gauge, I did need to shorten it about .5".
This is where I get to the mounting, if you use the temp & amm plate from another cluster, the 1981 gauge will fit 100% in the location of the temp gauge. Not drilling needed to mount the gauge, but you do need to drill two holes to mount the plate to the cluster.
Wiring, I wired a 12v positive to the water temp hot side, the blue wire runs to the sender on the motor, and I currently have a ground to run out to a spot under the dash, but I believe using serrated washers and a nut would ground the gauge to the cluster on its own.
I did have the engine running yesterday and it appears to read proper!
It should be notated as well - board member MikeB and his posts on this gave me a great guide as to swap gauges. I just took it a bit further on reused my gauge face.
I am planning on completing a video on this for YouTube, when done I will post here.
