"if I disassemble it and it needs rebuilding then I'm really hurting"
If it does need rebuilding and you don't do it, you really will be hurting.
The cheap way out to support the lower shaft is to measure the shaft and the inner diameter of the tube and put a bearing in there. Where I live, we still have a local bearing supplier that you can walk in with dimensions you need, tell the counter guy what you are going to use it for, and walk out with a bearing. You might try googling 'bearing suppliers near me' and see if there's one where you live. The OD of the bearing is likely 1.75" and the shaft is 0.75", A Chinese bearing should be less than $10. Bearings come in all sorts of 'fits' from interference (must be pressed on) or clearanced (fits loosely over the shaft) and I'd look for one with a couple thou clearance.
The better way to fix it would be to buy a 'column saver' to support the lower shaft'
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-cp175bcs. You can spend a day hunting-down a bearing or buy your way out for $70
Joedoh says -
on an AD you cannot remove the shaft or the tube from the steering box easily. the cab is actually intended to be lifted off the steering shaft, no I AM NOT KIDDING. if you do it the way I outlined, you can cut the shaft and tube and just pull it through the firewall.To get the Ujoint on the factory box shaft
Is it easy enough to remove the steering box with the shaft/tube cut off so you can cut the double D on the bench? Or do you recommend grinding a DD with the box in the truck?
"Oh man, more money! I gotta say, I wouldn't know the difference between a good and a cheap u-joint"
The way to tell is the price, and you get what you pay for. A Borgeson or Sweet will cost 2-3X more than a cheap one on fleabay.
I didn't want to spend money twice Welcome to the world of custom fabrication. For me, spending money twice would be an improvement. Your best bet is to do research here and listen to guys with lots of experience like Joedoh and dsraven