Quote:
Originally Posted by dsraven
so? motor mounts issue resolved? got pics?
issue not resolved but not sure what to do so keep finding something else to do for forward progress?
if you have some metal skills mark the firewall with felt where it will require reshaping and figure out by how much. personally I recessed mine about 4". remove the engine to allow some work room and hammer/dolly the areas until the engine fits or else cut that area out and install a recessed firewall. this can be done with some pop rivets or self tapping sheet metal screws (often called tech screws http://store.liquidlpg.com.au/sprint...h-screws-price ) if the new overlaps the old. then, when you are satisfied with the engine fitment, you can weld it in or have that done for you. the other thing you could do possibly a little cheaper is have a sheet metal place bend up a recessed section of the firewall out of some 16ga cold rolled steel, the part in the center, and cut away what you don't need from the old part but leave some room so the new part overlaps the old part. you could use panel adhesive and rivet (using solid aircraft style rivets) the new part on and make it look decent if the rivets were well placed. finish around the edges with some filler. that way you will get the engine where you want it, just be sure to leave room on the inside for the gas pedal and comfortable access to the gas pedal, nothing worse than a cramped leg from a gas pedal that is too angled or not angled enough or a firewall that is recessed and looks great but there is not enough room for your foot on the inside so the gas pedal ends up too close to the brake pedal.
anyway, post some pics of the fix or the dilemma. maybe we can get you fired up on that fix, if not done yet. |
Hey DSRAVEN
I think mainly I was just fighting myself. Pretty normal.
(1)
The engine manifolds didnt fit by like 1/16 each side ...... I should have just cut the frame slightly each side - but I didnt want to ..... the Speed Engineering ones i posted above fit so well - it worked out in the end and at $140 or whatever was a good bye as stainless and look good and vband.
(2)
The steering rack - just seemed like I had the engine up a ways already more than I had seen in other builds - was worried about raising it further. But makes sense unless you have a clearance issues with hood - or trans tunnel - then no problems - just go higher ..... so I did around 1/4" and now have clearance to the lines we were talking about.
(3)
Front and rear clearance. Really didnt want to hack into firewall as didtn want to have to repaint and remove engine and so on. Just a lack of experience about how much room I needed I was really trying to get it all the way back. See post #175.
I grabbed the new radiator and fan and there was plenty of room (2.5" ?) once they were both put in rough place. so I actually bought the engine forward around 1". Looking at other builds seemed like it doesnt really matter as long as it physically doesnt touch (water pump snout) ... obviously more the beter for tooling etc
And then finally I was hung up on the 3 degree down deal. But decided from research it doesnt really matter for non carb engines.
So ...... think I should be good to go ahead ..... get the CPP transmission mount cut tomorrow morning and bolted in to support the rear .....
then start welding the front in.