Quote:
Originally posted by ProSt68Trk
Another little tip - on my '89 I had shaved the handles both inside and out and was using the electric motors. With the fear of the battery going dead or something, I wired a 9-volt battery connector in-line with the door motor power wires and kept a battery handy in the truck. A 9-volt battery is just enough to operate to door motors in case of an emergency.
I've also used a reed switch from a home security system before to operate a door motor. Just hide the switch in the side mirrors or something. By using a small magnate, the doors can be opened.
Always have a backup plan!
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I've never done the reed switch on my own cars (paranoia about somebody walking around my truck with a giant woofer
), but I've done the reed switches up in the roof pillars for other people's cars. Just find any old high-flux magnet and stick it to the inside of their fender. Tell them that's their "Save-A-Spare" in case they ever lock themselves out.
As for the 9v battery, I've also done that, but you're still relying on the electrics. For most cars, you can get to the battery (trust me... this is EASY even if you have a hood lock... all you have to do is jumper cable off the starter and the frame
), then you've got power. The reason I prefer the mechanical backup of the stainless cable is that you can attach it to the actual door opener rod, so in case the motor burns up or the rod pops off of the motor, you've still got a way to get in at least 1 more time. If you've got door panels, make sure you roll your window down so you can get out when you get home-- remember, your backup cable is probably under the hood... no way to get to it if you're locked out (there's an Aggie Joke in there-- and I am qualified to tell Aggie jokes since I used to go to school there
).
{man, I'm rambling today... m u s t g o h o m e}
Kenneth