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Old 07-12-2017, 11:49 AM   #834
knomadd
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Rosenberg, Texas
Posts: 3,506
Re: Knomadd '71 SWB C-10

I'm behind on my updates, and I'm back to posting the smaller forum photos, but at least they shouldn't disappear. So here it goes...

I used the old fuel line to mock up my trans cooler lines using aluminum tubing and some AN tube sleeves and nuts. They hit the header, so I've purchased 90 degree fittings to see if it'll work. Here's the test fit before I ordered the 90s. I tried moving the radius but just got kinks in the line since I don't have a bender that will make tighter radii or closer to the end of the line.
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Later that day I pulled the motor so I could get off as much of the peeling paint as I can, clean and scuff the hell out of it so, hopefully, I won't have to do this again. Lesson learned, don't just clean it and etch prime a motor... scuff it first. I've never had to scuff an iron block before and have never had peeling problems like this. It seems to only be doing it on the aluminum parts. Here's some photos before repaint.
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And here it is after several hours of scuffing, cleaning and repainting.
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Before I put the engine back in, I figured it would be easier to replace the torn tail shaft seal while it was out of the truck. I pulled the old seal and had to improvise a tool to seat the new seal evenly. An old pickle jar we had in the recycling bin was the perfect fit. Used a rubber mallet and some specifically placed blows to get it on without breaking the glass jar or damaging the seal. Worked out pretty well.
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-Duane

C/10 Club Texas member
1971 Chevy C10 "Brutus" SWB Fleetside 2016 6.0L (L96) 6L90E (driver/project)
1965 Pontiac GTO "Royal Goat" 400/TH400 w/AC (my baby)

Last edited by knomadd; 07-14-2017 at 12:39 PM.
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