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Old 07-23-2019, 09:46 PM   #468
HO455
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 10,861
Re: Working Man's Burbon

First off I want to thank VetteVet for all the great information he has posted over the years. In addition here are some threads that added valuable information to make this conversion possible.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=567472

https://www.chevelles.com/techref/tecref14.html

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...evymain1.shtml

Nothing I did here was new or ground breaking.
Thank you everyone.

Okay in a nut shell the scope of the wiring side involved removing all the old wires to the alternator, the wire from the main power splice to the battery. Those will be replaced, with larger wire, along with adding a new wire to feed power to the the relays I added earlier in the project.
Material and items needed are:
10' of 6AWG red wire.
10' of 10AWG red wire
4' of 16AWG brown wire
6" of 12 AWG fusible link wire
A plug for the new alternator. Napa #787128
Resistor for the ampmeter circuit. I was unable to locate a 85 ohm 5 watt resistor, but I came up with 2) 100 ohm 2 watt resistors that I wired in parallel to give me 4 watts of resistance capability.
A insulated post to connect the wires on the driver side after I did away with the factory power splice.

After removing the external regulator and it's associated ground wires, the gobs of old tape to get to the factory wiring and pull the loom apart to see what was what. Surprisingly things were relatively undamaged. The regulator was no longer mounted on rubber isolators and it had 2 ground straps to boot. (These things should be well grounded ) The only other issue is the fuse holder for the ampmeter by the battery has been removed.
The next step for me was to locate the factory power splice inside of the harness. With the charging rate going from 38 amps to 100 amps the existing wire was too small. All of the charge wires, the power to the cab, one end of the ampmeter circuit, and the alternator sensing need to be hooked together at one location for the system to operate properly. (Photo 2 shows the power splice's location, at the end of the green line) (Photo 3 I mined from the Mad Electrical site showing the splice up close. The difference being our trucks have a 5th wire. The small black with white wire for the ampmeter)
As I am up sizing all the charging wires I cut all the wires off the splice. I will only be reusing the red that goes to the firewall connector and the small black w/white. Those got new ring terminals crimped and soldered on.
From the plug on the regulator I cut the brown wire off as I need it to make the ampmeter work. The rest was removed.
This drawing from VetteVet is what I used to guide me in hooking everything up. (Photo 4). Notice how all the red wires come together at the bottom of the drawing. On my installation I used an insulated post to bolt them all together. (Photo 5). It will allow me to add wires in the future if needed without having to cut the harness apart again.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help.
RIP Bob Parks.
1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo
If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place
The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377
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