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Old 11-24-2020, 07:54 PM   #3
MDPotter
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Location: Western Colorado
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Re: What does it really take to paint a truck?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cj847 View Post
I have some ideas but am not sure I have a good list. I was surprised how poor the information was on the internet. Everyone wants to sell you one item, but they don't tell you the accessories you must have to use it. I am wanting to know what it will cost to buy everything. I need a list of EVERYTHING I need. I am debating between an Eastwood roll on primer kit vs buying a spray gun. I am not planning a show paint job just something that looks ok. I think ill take it to a shop for final paint, trying to save money on bodywork and sanding labor.

I think I need:
-body hammers, etc (i have)
-Sandpaper and blocks (multiple shapes and multiple grits)
-bondo
-bondo spreaders and board
-A good compressor (I have)
-a filter/dryer
-a regulator (if not included with the gun)
-a paint gun stand
-paint filters
-gun cleaning kit
-various chemicals
-a paint gun (or multiple guns)

I have seen youtube videos of people claiming to prime and paint a vehicle with one gun and a pancake compressor. I'm calling BS on that. There is no way they are maintaining a decent pattern and a wet edge with a dinky compressor. My compressor is 25 gal with the compressor and motor as separate items (ie not a cheap oil less). And i am questioning if that is enough air.

I just want to avoid thinking I can buy a $50 gun and paint something, when the accessories are going to cost 3 to 10 times that.

Anyway, please let me know what else I need. Thanks in advance.
Here is my experience based on doing bodywork off and on as a hobby:

-I am leary of the roll-on primer kit. That sounds like a good way to trap solvents due to mill thickness in a single application. If you want good quality products, check out Southern Polyurethanes. Top quality products at great prices and an awesome forum for support. The owner is so easy to get ahold of when you need advice too.
-Sandpaper - get 36, 80, and 180 on sticky back rolls for use with durablocks. Also get 80, 320, and 600 grit sticky back discs for your DA sander. Durablock has a good variety pack. I also have a semi-flexible pad for wetsanding.
-I use RAGE Gold filler. Also get the "honey"-it's basically a thinner that will help with pinholes and leveling for flat applications.
-Yes on the external regulator - get a dial type to hook up to your gun.
-I have a dryer/separator from Eastwood and it has been just fine.
-I have a Devilbiss FLG4 gun for primer and it works great. It will spray epoxy (1.4 tip), 2K (1.8 tip), and the high build surfacers (2.2 tip).
-I have a Devilbiss Tekna copper with 7E7 cap for base and clear and it works great and doesn't break the bank.
-DA sander - I have an Ingersoll Rand 3/32" orbit
-Get yourself a masking cart - I got one from Harbor Freight and it's fine. It will hold your sandpaper rolls and masking paper. It also applies the masking tape to one edge of the masking paper to make masking easier.
-I use the Devilbiss DeKups system - I think 3M has a similar system. It's easier than cleaning out your entire cup every time and paint won't drip out of the lid of the cup. Sprays upside down too.
-I don't run an inline filter to my spray gun-just the filter on the wall.
-You will also need guide coat (the powder stuff lasts awhile), lots of lacquer thinner (for cleaning your gun), wax & grease remover (for cleaning prior to spraying or applying filler), tack cloths, latex gloves, and a respirator.
-I also use disposable paint suits from Uline - the kind that have a hood. You can get them with feet or without. I wear booties over my shoes to keep the paint off them or you can just wear shoes that you don't care about.
-Good cleaning wipes-when cleaning prior to paint, cleanliness is very important. Shop towels or paper towels won't cut it because they can't stand up to the solvent in wax & grease remover. They need to be lint-free and solvent resistant. Your local auto body supplier should have a good recommendation.
-Get the Clean Sheets brand mixing surface for filler. It's really easy to just tear off the sheet after you've used it and they last quite awhile.
-I don't know about a 25 gal compressor, that's a little small. It's not a question of pressure, but of CFM because HVLP guns take a lot of CFM. I have a 70 gal that makes about 10 CFM and it keeps up but it runs almost constantly when I'm spraying or using the DA.
-Something to keep the paint off your floor. I use clear plastic as it is cheap.
-Laser temperature gun - make sure your surface is warm enough to spray on before proceeding.
-Mixing cups - I use these fairly often. The DeKups system has a measuring component, but it's hard to see through the liner to the measuring stick after you've already filled the cup and it's time to refill, unless it's clear coat.
-Strainers and stirring sticks-typically the auto body supplier will give you these if you buy primer/base/clear from them. But they're cheap too.

That's my $0.02.
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