Quote:
Originally Posted by 1972BlueC20
Hi TBONE. I know this post is old but found it super informative since I'm about to do a cluster conversion. I only have a few questions to complete what I need to know before starting the conversion.
1) the new wire that I'll be adding from the # 1 that goes to the alternator, is it a completely new wire that goes from the dash connector to where the current red wire connects to the back of the alternator now? If so do you remove and tape off the exsisting red wire that's hooked to the alternator or do you combine the new wire together with the current wire on the same post at the backside of the alternator? And just add a 4 amp inline fuse on this new line correct?
2) the new black wire that I'll be running from # 12 to the battery....does that hook to the junction block near the battery? Also I add a 4 amp inline?
3) some people say you can use the factory repop tach with HEI even though it says clearly you can't. Can I or not? If not is there a way around this? Tach filter or??
4) best way to run line through firewall for oil pressure?
5) what is the clips called that plug into the dash connector? I'm assuming I'll need 2 of these for the 2 new wires I'll be running for the # 1 and # 12 positions.
If TBONE isn't available, anyone please feel free to chime in.
Thanks in advance!!!
-Brian
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Hi Brain,
I will answer what I know in RED below your questions. I hope the answers help.
1) the new wire that I'll be adding from the # 1 that goes to the alternator, is it a completely new wire that goes from the dash connector to where the current red wire connects to the back of the alternator now? If so do you remove and tape off the exsisting red wire that's hooked to the alternator or do you combine the new wire together with the current wire on the same post at the backside of the alternator? And just add a 4 amp inline fuse on this new line correct?
I am not 100% sure how this is routed to the alternator. I know it should come out at the bulk head and be part of the light harness. The fuse is near the voltage regulator on the firewall. Yes you will need the 4 amp fuse in line.
2) the new black wire that I'll be running from # 12 to the battery....does that hook to the junction block near the battery? Also I add a 4 amp inline?
Yes, from the factory it is about 3 or 4 inches of pig tail with a short style glass 4 amp fuse. From my understanding, you will need 4 amp in line fuse on both the #1 and #12 wires. Anything different will cause the gauge not to work correctly
3) some people say you can use the factory repop tach with HEI even though it says clearly you can't. Can I or not? If not is there a way around this? Tach filter or??
I have installed at least 10 aftermarket tachs and have had no one contact me about a tach not working. I use counterpart aftermarket tachs from the truck and car shop in Orange, CA. Using a filter is something I would suggest on any tach, factory or aftermarket. It cleans up the signal.
4) best way to run line through firewall for oil pressure?
There should be a hole just above the washer hose grommet hole. That is the one that the factory line passes through. The factory had two lines that joined together with a coupling on the engine compartment side. You can you a one piece just make sure you coil the extra length on the engine compartment side. The coil(s) actually keep the line from "buzzing". I would use either copper or steel line.
5) what is the clips called that plug into the dash connector? I'm assuming I'll need 2 of these for the 2 new wires I'll be running for the # 1 and # 12 positions.
They are called terminals but not sure the actual technical name for them for this applicatiopn. You can see in my photos on this thread how to remove them from the connector. Both non gauge (warning light) clusters and full gauge clusters share the same 12 pin connector but the terminals are located in different places. I have never been able to source new ones so if you need extras, you will have to get them from a junk harness.
Take care,
Tom