Quote:
Originally Posted by lkt1954
I'm having the same issue with my 70 C10. It is a 350 with sniper EFI, dual electric fans and HEI distributor. Wiring is all new (American Autowire) and done by a professional shop.
First time we started it to program the EFI started fine and shut off fine. The second time we started it, guess what it still ran with the key off- unplugging the fuel pump shut it off. During this test run the electric fans would not come on (Derale).
Here is what I have checked and fixed so far:
1. The red wire going into the fan relay was not crimped very good and had worked its way loose. Corrected this and it still was blowing the 30 amp inline fuse. Replaced 25 amp relay and it no longer blew the inline fuse. However the fan control module adjustment does nothing- even at the lowest setting fans do not come on. I'm thinking the control module is shot.
2.The white wire going to the HEI has power when the ignition switch is on and does not when it is turned off.
3. The control module is wired as per directions: red wires to the battery. Module harness: negative wires to the 30 amp fuse/yellow wire to ignition/black wire to battery negative post and green wire to override.
4. I have tried two different and the same results will not shut off when the key is turned off.
5. The only other thing I discovered is that the 30 amp inline fuse on the control module for the fans was blow again. It wasn't when I started it. So it either had to happen when I was trying to adjust the fans or turning the switch off.
6. Installed a 40 amp relay today and the 30 amp fuse is still blowing either when I try to adjust the fans coming on or when trying to shut off the engine (which still runs). In checking the wiring harness on the module- in the 30 amp fuse, the terminal with the negative wires coming from the fan light up a test light whether the ignition is on or not. This confuses me.
Could a bad control module be causing this? The module came with a 25 amp relay, yet the instructions call for a 40/60 amp (so I'm a little confused here- why send a 25 amp-when the instructions call for a 40/60).
Any thought here before I load it up and haul it 50 miles back to the person who did all the wiring?? Sorry this is a long read.
Thanks
Larry
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We need more information to help. What control module are you referring to in statement #3. Please post the information on the fan controller and it's associated wiring. Is the fan controller starting both fans simultaneously or is it a dual fan controller with multiple temperature set points?
I believe the first thing to correct is the power to the ignition. You need to get it working correctly to start. It is possible that an ignition switch problem is tied into the fan controller problem.
Once that is done the wiring for the fan control circuit needs to be verified from fuse box through all wiring and components.
Personally your narrative brings several items to light that makes me question the quality of work done. The bad connection at the fan relay, the ignition power issue, the failure of the fan controller to operate, and the number of blown fues you have experienced.
When I do a complete or complex wiring job I always do resistance testing before applying 12 volts. Do you know if this was done?
Do you have a DC ampmeter? What kind of multimeter are you using? How much troubleshooting are you willing to do? Do you expect the installer to warranty their work?