Looks like you need a new Horn Cap Retainer, p/n 60-06414, $5.00 from
www.truckandcarshop.com
They also have the Turn Signal Switch Cancelling Springs, p/n 67-06707, $3.00 a pair.
I replaced my '68's OEM ignition switch years ago. It now goes to ACC, but I'm not sure there's anything there. I remember having a hard time with the ignition sw on the '67 Sub. The bezel is different. I used a chisel and small ball pien hammer and gave light taps at each 120* notch until it came to finger tight and spun off. The 67's notches are smaller, so harder to grip.
I'm also having horn gripes. Currently doesn't work. The OEM '68 horn, I drilled out the rivets holding it together, cleaned out the interior, de-rusted the vibrator coil, re-assembled it with screws and nuts -- and it wotked again. Then I painted it satin black and it won't work. Most likely it's paint interfering with grounding.
Another part of the problem is the short, either in the column or under dash. Have inspected it all, but for under the Fuse Panel/Bulkhead Connector, and see no obvious faults. Tried 3 different Horn Relays, OEM, one fron '67 Sub, and a new one from Auto Zone. All bench test OK. But when energized stay on.
Right now horn button does not click relay. I put a piece of E-tape under the steel plate on the bottom of the T/S Sw. Maybe that is supposed to flow thru to ground?
I also got fancy and tried adding a second High A 440 hz, Bosch horn off a vintage Mercedes [where did I get that?] along with the stock Delco-Remy Mid C-note horn. Sounded like some angry Late-Fifties progressive jazz -- Monk on a rant, too cool -- but I can't get it to work out yet.
I don't think the 2 horns make so much current that the relay sticks On. Most V8s had dual horns without special horn relays. [Horn Relay Relay?]
I have pix, but I wanted to post a Horn Gripe on the Electrical subforum, where the Experts will see it, so I'll save pix for now.
