[rich weyand]

I like it a lot. Here's a note about how to mount the small fuel gauge in the clock position.

Getting the dummy plug out of the blank position is no problem. But there is a missing mounting boss for the fuel gauge in the "no-tach" instrument basket. What I did was to get a plastic spacer (sometimes called a standoff) that was internally threaded #6-32, and one that was not threaded but had a #6 clearance hole through the center. The back of the instrument basket is not square with the instrument faces at that point, and the side of the basket angles in so that you can't just mount a boss straight back from the gauge mounting tab. So I cut a piece of the clearance hole spacer at an angle, then drilled a hole in the instrument basket and put a #6-32 machine screw through the instrument basket, through the clearance hole spacer, and into the threaded spacer. I made this angled piece long enough to put the end of the threaded spacer in the right place for the gauge mounting tab, and I rotated it around until it angled the threaded spacer to the right position. Get more than one clearance spacer, because it could take you a couple tries to get the length and angle right. Then I tightened down the machine screw, fixing the spacers to the instrument basket. Voila! A boss for mounting the small fuel gauge. Just use a short #6-32 machine screw into the end of the threaded spacer as the mounting screw for that gauge mounting tab.

For wiring, I knew the other gauge had the right power and ground connections, so I took two pieces of wire and put a small crimp-on eye terminal on both ends of each, and wired the small gauge + and GND terminals to those of the one in the stock position with nuts on the back of both gauges' screw terminals. This still works with the tach fuel combo because that unit plugs right into the stock wiring. Note that both gauges need the resistor across the back.

For the sender wires, I connected the passenger side tank sender wire to the stock sender wire to the stock gauge so it would be on the right side gauge. I ran a separate sender wire from the driver's side tank sender across the back of the cab and followed the stock sender wire up the vehicle and into the cab. I wired it to the small fuel gauge, leaving a little extra wire behind the dash and using a male-female crimp-on disconnect pair behind the basket so I could disconnect it to get the basket out.

And that was about it. The hard part was making up for the missing boss, but some threaded spacer, a clearance spacer, and some playing around did the trick.