Clouds of white coming out of one side of exhaust

[AirSpeed]

Drove my truck this morning and noticed clouds of white "smoke" coming out the drivers side exhaust, got an occasional whiff of antifreeze and my radiator was low on coolant. I'm assuming I have a bad head gasket, any way to verify?

[Sklptrljay]

Sorry to hear that, always a bummer when something like this happens. One simple thing to do is hold your hand at the exhaust tip and see if it smells like antifreeze or oil.
You can do a compression test on the coolant system. My mechanic showed me a compression test with a clear tube attached to the coolant system and it changed color if any air/exhaust bubbles got into the coolant.

[AirSpeed]

Just checked my oil and it looks a little milky, more like brown. I did smell antifreeze while it was running.

[Sklptrljay]

Yeah, doesn't sound good. Sorry bud.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by Sklptrljay

Yeah, doesn't sound good. Sorry bud.

Thanks, I'll get it going again!

[imjeff]

Hate to say it, but the last time I replaced a head gasket for the exact problem you're having, it didn't fix the crack that was causing it. Tear the head off and carefully examine the gasket. If no issues the have the head checked. No sense doing much more testing. It's not only walking like a duck, it's quacking as well. Off with its head!

Jeff

[AirSpeed]

Yea, I'm thinking new engine, there's so much water in the oil and I had to drive it about ten miles to get home, i didn't hear any bad noise but I'm sure I started the process of ruining the bearings. Thinking back it's been stumbling in the mornings, I had to rev it a little to get it to smooth out so its probably been leaking coolant in the cylinder and oil for some time.
Anyone have a good recommendation for new 350s for a 72 Gmc?

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

Yea, I'm thinking new engine, there's so much water in the oil and I had to drive it about ten miles to get home, i didn't hear any bad noise but I'm sure I started the process of ruining the bearings. Thinking back it's been stumbling in the mornings, I had to rev it a little to get it to smooth out so its probably been leaking coolant in the cylinder and oil for some time.
Anyone have a good recommendation for new 350s for a 72 Gmc?

Check your local GMC or Chevy dealer for a GM Goodwrench 350. They are not too expensive [$1500 ~] and come with a warranty [something like] 3 years or 50000 miles.

[sgt1022]

I just bought a 290 hp GM performance long block from Jegs for about $2000. Runs great.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by sgt1022

I just bought a 290 hp GM performance long block from Jegs for about $2000. Runs great.

Did they deliver to your house? How did you unload it, forklift, hoist?

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by sgt1022

I just bought a 290 hp GM performance long block from Jegs for about $2000. Runs great.

That's a great motor, plenty of power to tow a load or pass people with.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

Drove my truck this morning and noticed clouds of white "smoke" coming out the drivers side exhaust, got an occasional whiff of antifreeze and my radiator was low on coolant. I'm assuming I have a bad head gasket, any way to verify?

As a retired mechanic, I'd rebuild it, especially if it's matching numbers to the truck. As far as hiring someone else to do it, I'd have to have rock solid references.

Or this

http://www.jegs.com/p/Chevrolet-Perf...52506/10002/-1

Or this if you need a new balancer, intake, HEI. Comes with gaskets.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Perf...d=#moreDetails

If you want more power, put an RV cam in it before you install it. I'd go smaller than the cam in the 350-290HP, IMO, .222int-.222ex duration @ .050" is too much for 8:1 compression and shorts you on torque.

I'd get something around .210-.220 duration @ .050" and 112 degree lobe centers and less than .450 lift, ought to be good for around 275HP and 350 ft/lbs of torque.

[imjeff]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

as a retired mechanic, i'd rebuild it, especially if it's matching numbers to the truck. As far as hiring someone else to do it, i'd have to have rock solid references.

Or this

http://www.jegs.com/p/chevrolet-perf...52506/10002/-1

or this if you need a new balancer, intake, hei. Comes with gaskets.

http://www.jegs.com/i/chevrolet-perf...d=#moredetails

if you want more power, put an rv cam in it before you install it. I'd go smaller than the cam in the 350-290hp, imo, .222int-.222ex duration @ .050" is too much for 8:1 compression and shorts you on torque.

I'd get something around .210-.220 duration @ .050" and 112 degree lobe centers and less than .450 lift, ought to be good for around 275hp and 350 ft/lbs of torque.

x2!

[sgt1022]

No I had it delivered to my mechanic's shop. They would've delivered to my house though. The 290 hp is lower on torque (325 ft lbs)than the 260 hp version (350 ft lbs). But I wasn't changing the cam or anything. I made up some torque with my intake and exhaust.

[jeffahart]

Hey what's the warranty stipulations on those Jegs Goodwrench 350s. I heard you had to have them installed by certified mechanic to validate warranty.

[sgt1022]

I had mine installed by a mechanic cause I didn't have the time after working two jobs. The warrant was 3 yrs/100,000 mi.

[jeffahart]

I just answered my own question above: here's what's on Jegs site. Plus I just called and spoke with them. Basically your on your own to fight any warranty issues with no leg to stand on if I install myself. Guess they look for any reason not to honor warranty. Which is not a GM thing just a regular Corporate America thing.


Warranty coverage is based on months/mileage, whichever comes first, and begins on the date of
installation
by an authorized GM dealer or by a qualified Independent Service Center (ISC). For all other over-the-counter
sales, warranty begins on date of retail sale.

PS, sorry if I got off topic. But seems like you may be going this route if you get the news we all think when you pull heads.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

I just answered my own question above: here's what's on Jegs site. Plus I just called and spoke with them. Basically your on your own to fight any warranty issues with no leg to stand on if I install myself. Guess they look for any reason not to honor warranty. Which is not a GM thing just a regular Corporate America thing.


Warranty coverage is based on months/mileage, whichever comes first, and begins on the date of
installation
by an authorized GM dealer or by a qualified Independent Service Center (ISC). For all other over-the-counter
sales, warranty begins on date of retail sale.

PS, sorry if I got off topic. But seems like you may be going this route if you get the news we all think when you pull heads.

I drained a little oil out of it and found a lot of metal shavings, I'm pretty sure now that it's had water in the oil for some time, I'm not even going to bother pulling the heads, I'd rather just buy a new engine than have this one start knocking a few months later, I only want to pull the engine once. I haven't decided what to get yet but I need to do it soon, I drive this truck every day. What would you guys put in a 72 gmc 4X4, th350. I live in the mountains and only tow my teardrop trailer with the truck, it's my daily driver. I'd like to keep it around $2000.
Thanks for the suggestions!

[imjeff]

I would do a stockish ("RV" type cam) 350. It'll do everything you want, make good vacuum, run at elevation, etc

Jeff

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

I just answered my own question above: here's what's on Jegs site. Plus I just called and spoke with them. Basically your on your own to fight any warranty issues with no leg to stand on if I install myself. Guess they look for any reason not to honor warranty. Which is not a GM thing just a regular Corporate America thing.


Warranty coverage is based on months/mileage, whichever comes first, and begins on the date of
installation
by an authorized GM dealer or by a qualified Independent Service Center (ISC). For all other over-the-counter
sales, warranty begins on date of retail sale.

PS, sorry if I got off topic. But seems like you may be going this route if you get the news we all think when you pull heads.

That's good info, Jeff, even if it's disappointing. We all know a shop can mess it up every bit as good as we can LOL.

But maybe Jeg's is flawed in their thinking. If a shop messes it up they will have every reason why it was a defective engine and they get paid to do it over. The owner, on the other hand, does not want to do it twice.

[jeffahart]

$2000 can be done but it will be a tight squeeze. It becomes all about your tolerance for re-bolting old and iffy parts back onto your new pack. Distributor, oil pump, water pump.... it all starts adding up.

I will be allocating $4000-$5000 and it's because I plan to get new everything within reason. And that includes radiator.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

$2000 can be done but it will be a tight squeeze. It becomes all about your tolerance for re-bolting old and iffy parts back onto your new pack. Distributor, oil pump, water pump.... It all starts adding up.

x2.

[imjeff]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

$2000 can be done but it will be a tight squeeze. It becomes all about your tolerance for re-bolting old and iffy parts back onto your new pack. Distributor, oil pump, water pump.... it all starts adding up.

I will be allocating $4000-$5000 and it's because I plan to get new everything within reason. And that includes radiator.

The oil pump comes on the new long block. You can rebuild or find a good distributor cheap. If your intake and carb are good, clean em' up, replace the thermostat and bolt it together. You know that your water pump, starter, alternator etc. work, so just clean them and install. New belts and hoses can add up, but if you use Rock Auto and your own labor you'll come in right about $2000.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by imjeff

The oil pump comes on the new long block. You can rebuild or find a good distributor cheap. If your intake and carb are good, clean em' up, replace the thermostat and bolt it together. You know that your water pump, starter, alternator etc. work, so just clean them and install. New belts and hoses can add up, but if you use Rock Auto and your own labor you'll come in right about $2000.

Yes, thanks for the correction. Oil pump included.

[Xeen]

What ever you decide to do you need to do it soon, that engine isn't going to last very much longer in it's current condition.