Changing out zerks or bearings or what ever?

[AJLChase]

Not sure if this is the right spot or if it would be better put in the Suspension forums. But, I am curious as to what it takes to get in and out old ball joints and the new ones or what exactly to do about getting the old zerks out so they're not oozing out every where. Reason being, it would look nicer, it's newer and I have one that I believe is shot as no matter how much grease I put into it it oozes out and still squeeks and creaks like mad!

[Tx Firefighter]

The upper ball joints are held in place by rivets originally. You have to remove the factory rivets. The new ball joint will include appropriate bolts to use in place of the rivets when you install it.

The lower ball joints are pressed into the control arms. You can rent a tool from most parts stores that will remove and reinstall them. I personally don't think the tool works very well so I remove the arms and use my shop press to push them in.

[jay6891]

you sure that its your ball joints creaking. Sounds more like the control arm bushings screaming because the grease worms are eating it alive. If you just want to change out the zirc because the check ball is bad. A 5/16" wrench or socket will unscrew them and replace with new.

[CWS]

If you want to change out the ball joints, I recommend you read Jewels thread. She was actually installing drop spindles, but changed the ball joints as part of the task, and she did an outstanding job of documenting the task.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=3425176

I am new here and have very little experience working on old trucks. With all the information available on this forum, and a little more time then I expected, I am 90% complete swapping out my front drums for discs and replacing most of the steering/suspension parts that wear out after 40+ years. With my limited experience, I found the task pretty easy, and a great confidence builder. I decided to remove the lower control arm to replace the lower ball joint, Jewels didn’t and I think I made the right decision for my experience. Only takes about 30 -60 minutes to get the lower control arm off, and then off to the shop to press-out/in the lower ball joint. (Kevin stated he removed the lower control arm also).

A few surprises that I found….. I tried to replace my bump-stop, still in-process. Installing the rubber boot on the lower Ball-Joint was a pain, not sure of the correct/easy way to do that. And finally, I found that my upper shock mounting bolt had the common problem of rounding out the mounting hole. Per other threads, this is a common problem and a few vendors sell the kit for about $30 to fix this. I was also told since I had everything apart, I should replace the control arm bushings, which sadly to say I did not.


Craig

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by CWS

If you want to change out the ball joints, I recommend you read Jewels thread. She was actually installing drop spindles, but changed the ball joints as part of the task, and she did an outstanding job of documenting the task.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=3425176

I am new here and have very little experience working on old trucks. With all the information available on this forum, and a little more time then I expected, I am 90% complete swapping out my front drums for discs and replacing most of the steering/suspension parts that wear out after 40+ years. With my limited experience, I found the task pretty easy, and a great confidence builder. I decided to remove the lower control arm to replace the lower ball joint, Jewels didn’t and I think I made the right decision for my experience. Only takes about 30 -60 minutes to get the lower control arm off, and then off to the shop to press-out/in the lower ball joint. (Kevin stated he removed the lower control arm also).

A few surprises that I found….. I tried to replace my bump-stop, still in-process. Installing the rubber boot on the lower Ball-Joint was a pain, not sure of the correct/easy way to do that. And finally, I found that my upper shock mounting bolt had the common problem of rounding out the mounting hole. Per other threads, this is a common problem and a few vendors sell the kit for about $30 to fix this. I was also told since I had everything apart, I should replace the control arm bushings, which sadly to say I did not.


Craig

A couple of things about your post...

1) The lower ball joint boots are directional. Most of them have either an arrow or "install inboard" on them. Make sure to orient them properly. The significance of this is that there is a small channel in the boot to relieve excess grease. The channel is to be pointed inboard, away from the brakes. Get yourself a piece of fence post pipe or something similar to tap the boots down into place.

2) Don't get wrapped about not replacing the control arm bushings. It's easy to recommend changing them when it's someone else's money and time. A huge majority of the greasable control arm bushings are still in serviceable condition even after all of these years and use. There are a good number of trucks running around Texas that I have built still running original bushings. When I build a truck, I wiggle the arm to see what kind of play is in the bushings. My rule of thumb is that if you can feel a bit of play, but can't see it wiggle with your eyes, you're okay.

[AJLChase]

Originally Posted by jay6891

you sure that its your ball joints creaking. Sounds more like the control arm bushings screaming because the grease worms are eating it alive. If you just want to change out the zirc because the check ball is bad. A 5/16" wrench or socket will unscrew them and replace with new.

Yes, I too have narrowed it down to the control arm bushings. I Just figured if I do one then I need to do them all. But, for now if I could just get the creaking to subside I'd be at least content for awhile. Any ideas on how to replace the bushings?

[AJLChase]

Originally Posted by CWS

If you want to change out the ball joints, I recommend you read Jewels thread. She was actually installing drop spindles, but changed the ball joints as part of the task, and she did an outstanding job of documenting the task.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=3425176

I am new here and have very little experience working on old trucks. With all the information available on this forum, and a little more time then I expected, I am 90% complete swapping out my front drums for discs and replacing most of the steering/suspension parts that wear out after 40+ years. With my limited experience, I found the task pretty easy, and a great confidence builder. I decided to remove the lower control arm to replace the lower ball joint, Jewels didn’t and I think I made the right decision for my experience. Only takes about 30 -60 minutes to get the lower control arm off, and then off to the shop to press-out/in the lower ball joint. (Kevin stated he removed the lower control arm also).

A few surprises that I found….. I tried to replace my bump-stop, still in-process. Installing the rubber boot on the lower Ball-Joint was a pain, not sure of the correct/easy way to do that. And finally, I found that my upper shock mounting bolt had the common problem of rounding out the mounting hole. Per other threads, this is a common problem and a few vendors sell the kit for about $30 to fix this. I was also told since I had everything apart, I should replace the control arm bushings, which sadly to say I did not.


Craig

Thank you for this, looks very informative. I'm glad too that it worked out well for you as that gives this newbie hope!