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Old 07-31-2008, 02:44 AM   #1
Phoenix_400
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How to get into the 13's

Hey guys, I've got a 69 c10 I'm tearing down for a complete rebuild. The goal is a good daily driver/ work truck with a little go to it. Don't really want much on this truck that I can't get from a junk yard, Advance, Summit. Wondering how much power it would take to hit 13's. Heck I'd be happy with a 13.99. Just want to jerk with some of my ricer buddies

Current build plan:

4 bolt main 350 out of 79 Suburban.
882 heads milled .025, larger valves, 3 angle valve job, casting flash cleaned up in ports.
Edelbrock Performer intake.
Holley 570 street avenger.
Looking at the Lunati voodoo 262 cam, supposed to be better than XE262.
1 5/8th headers with 2 1/2 in exhaust and x-pipe.
2004r out of a 85 Buick Regal T-Type(grand national), shift kit, maybe a converter.
B&M megashifter
3.73 posi rear end.

Body of the truck will be mostly stock. Rear mount gas tank. ECE 2/4 premium drop kit. Late model bucket seats(still gotta hit the junkyards for that). 73-up Front disc brakes(maybe just get a whole front crossmember and suspension...and the rear end to match...dunno yet, see what I can find at the junk yards). Aluminum radiator and a vintage air A/C (only fancy part I'm plannin on puttin in) to clean up under the hood.

I've got it stripped down to cab and frame now and I'm open to suggestions. On a budget though and lucky if I get this thing back on the road within the next year. Any power suggestions without completely destroying fuel economy (using that term loosely) would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-04-2008, 10:50 AM   #2
chevy72blu
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Re: How to get into the 13's

Is this the cam you are looking at?


Lunati #638-60201LK

Voodoo Camshafts
Camshaft & Lifter Kit
Lift: .515''/.530''
Duration: 256°/262°
RPM Range: 1000-5500


I would really recommend something more aggressive. You may get mid 14's out of that combo you posted.

I'll post back later when I have some more time
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:11 PM   #3
Phoenix_400
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Re: How to get into the 13's

Actually the cam is #60102. These are the specs from Summit.

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,400-5,700
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 219
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 227
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 219 int./227 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 268
Advertised Duration: 262 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.468 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.489 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.468 int./0.489 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112

I have an Edelbrock Performer intake or an RPM available right now. Torn on which to use. Also was thinking about roller tip rockers (not sure what ratio to go with) and comp cams beehive springs.
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1978 Bandit T/A "The Black Death" A.K.A "Christine"-Cursed by the Gods, Possessed by Demons, Powered off the souls of its victims.
86 K10 Scottsdale a.k.a The Zedsled
05 Crown Vic Sport - Black. "Are you a cop?"
69 C10 - The Lost Sheep
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Old 08-07-2008, 01:02 AM   #4
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Re: How to get into the 13's

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phoenix_400 View Post
Actually the cam is #60102. These are the specs from Summit.

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,400-5,700
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 219
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 227
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 219 int./227 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 268
Advertised Duration: 262 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.468 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.489 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.468 int./0.489 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112

I have an Edelbrock Performer intake or an RPM available right now. Torn on which to use. Also was thinking about roller tip rockers (not sure what ratio to go with) and comp cams beehive springs.

This this close to what I'm running, except I have aluminum heads and a 4.11 rear. With traction being the only factor, I have no doubt at all I'd be in the 13's with slicks. So I'd say this is a good combo and should put you right there.
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Old 08-11-2008, 01:48 AM   #5
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Re: How to get into the 13's

I would not get a set of 882's re-worked for the money you would have in them with a few hundered more bucks you could buy a WAY better set of heads. A performer rpm head would probably good with this combo and I think you can pick up a set for just above $1000, which you would have $700 atleast in the 882's. You might want to go with a little bigger carb say about a 650. Compression would also be your best friend for that combo, the 882 heads have 76cc chambers which with the 4 valve relief flat top piston your looking at 8-8.5:1 compression I dont mean to rain on your parade but with a n/a 8.5:1 350 you wont get in the 13's. Now if you invested in a good set of 64cc aluminum heads and built the motor with say 10-10.5:1 compression 13's wouldnt be hard to get. I wouldn't re-grind the crank either (assuming it needs it) you can get a new scat crank for the cost of what you would pay a shop to grind your stocker. A good set of hyperutectic pistons would also be a good idea because they are far superior to a stocker plus there not a whole lot more then a stock pistion and you could choose your dome/dish size to get the compression you want. So to re-cap The trans idea and rear end idea is fine but for the motor a 650 carb, edle rpm heads, hyperutectic pistons with stock rods and arp fasters through out the rotating assembly and I would get it balanced, 10-10.5:1 comp, the cam you listed and a msd 6al igniton (you can buy a complete setup trought summit for like $600) the exhaust sytem you listed would work fine. With that combo you should be well in the 13's. One more thing do you have coil springs or leaf springs? If you have leafs you might have to put a set of traction bars on depengin on if its hoppin or not
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Old 08-11-2008, 05:24 PM   #6
70rs/ss
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Re: How to get into the 13's

Stock iron vortecs with a bigger spring and a good intake. Converter with the cam you want to use. The easiest/best/cheapest way..... build a bullet proof bottom end and squeeze it into the 13's. Seriously, build a good sound foundation and bottle it up when you want to impress the wine and rice crowd.

Last edited by 70rs/ss; 08-11-2008 at 05:25 PM.
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Old 08-12-2008, 07:03 AM   #7
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Re: How to get into the 13's

I had a 71 with a mild 350 with vortec heads and a zz4 camshaft and it went 13.50's. I had lightened the truck some and moved the tank and battery to the rear.
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So Far my best Times are:

Motor only:
6.44 1/8 @ 104.13
10.39 1/4 @ 125.83

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9.168 1/4 @ 142.58 with a 250 shot dead out of the hole!
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Old 08-12-2008, 02:02 PM   #8
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Re: How to get into the 13's

Quote:
Originally Posted by djracer View Post
I had a 71 with a mild 350 with vortec heads and a zz4 camshaft and it went 13.50's. I had lightened the truck some and moved the tank and battery to the rear.
I am no drag racing expert, by any means (I like to build hp/tq, I just don't have a track within 5 hours of me to use!), but 13's are fairly easy to accomplish. There is a calculator out there that guesstimates the HP needed to make a 1/4 mile pass at a set time, I'll see if I can find it, but I'd guess a stout build 350 should be able to do it easily. My take on it is build a dead reliable, bullet proof longblock and you'll be able to drive it everyday and it'll stand up to the abuse as you dish it out. A lot of guys frown on power in a bottle (all motor numbers are their thing), but if I can daily drive 250-300hp and at the push of a button have 350-450hp, then I am not feeding a 400+hp beast all day on the road, nor am I having to deal with the quirkiness a 400-500hp motor can throw at you.

Last edited by 70rs/ss; 08-12-2008 at 02:03 PM.
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