Is this the cause of my oil leak?

[Mayhem.Evol]

Hopefully this doesn't triple post, was having trouble getting it to work on my phone laying under the truck, had to come inside.

So i bought the truck (1980 swb) a couple weeks ago, cruised it about 100miles home.. ran good. It did have an oil leak though coming from the oil filter it seemed. I checked around it and it didn't seem wet above, so i watched while the truck was running and it was definitely coming down the side of the filter. I changed the filter/oil since i was going to anyway, but that didn't help much. So today i pulled the filter off to give it a good look with a flashlight. I found that there is some damage to the ring that the filter seals to. I'm assuming this is my issue, but is there anything that can be done about it?

[GASoline71]

I'm betting that the previous owner had a cheap-o oil filter (like a Fram) that got stuck and they tried to use a chisel or a screwdriver to get it to spin off.

The area needs to be smooth right there. The long gouge is probably the culprit. To be honest, I don't know how you would go about machining that area flat.

Gary

[Mayhem.Evol]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

I'm betting that the previous owner had a cheap-o oil filter (like a Fram) that got stuck and they tried to use a chisel or a screwdriver to get it to spin off.

The area needs to be smooth right there. The long gouge is probably the culprit. To be honest, I don't know how you would go about machining that area flat.

Gary

I kind of figured there wouldn't be much that could be done. I have no plans for keeping that engine, but i would like to have it in there and drivable until i have another ready. I may just have to deal with the leak until then. Thanks for some insight on how that might have happened.

[truckdude239]

Jb weld then a drimmel to smooth it out

[67swb72klb]

X2 JB will do well for you!

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

Jb weld then a drimmel to smooth it out

Agree, and make sure the area is completely clean. A can of spray brake cleaner would work. I have also used black gasket sealer to prevent oil leaks with good success. It may help here since it's also oil resistant.

[Alex V.]

JB and grinding/sanding back to flat is an idea I'd endorse! Sucks that some dummy did that.

[faribran]

Is it possible to apply JB Weld then put tape over it. When it cures pull the tape leaving a smooth surface.

[cdowns]

it's a heck of a lot cheaper not to mention easier to get a new filter adapter for $10 or so unbolot the old one and bolt in the new one will take you about 5minutes ifin you take a cigarrete break

[Alex V.]

If I'm not mistaken the damage is on the block, outside the diameter of the adapter.

[faribran]

ALex, that's what I was thinking

[Mayhem.Evol]

Thanks for all of the replies! I gave it a try without complete success. I feel like it slowed the leak down some, but I'm also not happy w/ how my work turned out. Was my first time ever really using jb weld (seen it used at work on grinders and whatnot but never had to try to use it) so now I know better how it acts I think. The tape trick w/ a thin layer all the way around the seal might work better than how I did it and be easier to get smoothed out.. going to try that next time.

Also, the adapter was mentioned and yeah it is the ring in the block around it that is damaged. I bought an adapter on my way home friday evening hoping that was the issue, but it doesn't seem to be. Now that i see how the adapter sits in there, wouldn't it just leak back into the filter anyway?

[geezer#99]

Make a gasket for it.
Out of 1/16 inch laminated type gasket material. Same type as used in header gaskets. Soak the gasket in water over night and then install it. Might work as a temporary fix.

[68gmsee]

Another thing to try to level the surface as much as possible is to remove the adapter and use a flat sanding disk with a stiff backing plate with a drill to see if you can level it out first and then fill the gouged area with the JB weld. You may be able to get one that will fit inside the damaged area or cut one down to fit inside.

Maybe even try a gasket as mentioned above and black sealant. I have a ranger with a manual transmission with the rubber seals that are notorious for shrinking and leaking. I removed them cleaned them out and coated them with a heavy layer of black gasket maker and so far they haven't leaked in 5-6 years.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by Alex V.

If I'm not mistaken the damage is on the block, outside the diameter of the adapter.

Exactly... that surface is machined flat. That huge gouge near the bolt on the spin on oil filter housing is more than likely the root cause of the oil leak. It isn't allowing the oil filter seal to properly seal on the machined surface.

Gary

[Marv D]

Strange no one has stated the obvious. You need a fresh smooth surface for the oil filter gasket to seal against....... duh!
In the absence of machining the existing cast surface,,, a thin sheet of stainless sheet cut to the inner / outer diameter of the gasket sealing surface,,, use Permetex's "the RightStuff" to glue / seal it to the block ,,, viola, new sealing surface for the oil filter.

I'd say a 12 or 14g piece of stainless sheet is gonna cost you about a buck,,, you can file and fit yourself for free,,,, or spend like $20 letting a machine shop punch /trim to the right diameters.

I don't see the rocket science involved here in fixing this!

[storm9c1]

Originally Posted by Marv D

Strange no one has stated the obvious. You need a fresh smooth surface for the oil filter gasket to seal against....... duh!
In the absence of machining the existing cast surface,,, a thin sheet of stainless sheet cut to the inner / outer diameter of the gasket sealing surface,,, use Permetex's "the RightStuff" to glue / seal it to the block ,,, viola, new sealing surface for the oil filter.

I'd say a 12 or 14g piece of stainless sheet is gonna cost you about a buck,,, you can file and fit yourself for free,,,, or spend like $20 letting a machine shop punch /trim to the right diameters.

I don't see the rocket science involved here in fixing this!

+1 on this idea! Best solution.

I was also thinking to use a oil cooler sandwich adapter and just loop the hose -- or just install the cooler and use it with your next engine. Use sealant on the top half that meets the block. That should work too.

If the engine isn't going to be in service long, I'd even be tempted to pull a rubber oil seal off of a used filter, glue that in place with sealant. Then the new filter can seal against the old seal. One caveat... the new filter seal should be well lubricated, possibly with grease instead of oil, and not be very tight, otherwise next removal will twist off the glued seal. This is a hack though and should only be considered a temporary fix. I like the other ideas already mentioned better.

[Captainfab]

First, you're going to have to knock down the high spots. Then either use JB weld (which I hate) or use Marv D's suggestion, which is the best yet. I would find someone with a CNC plasma or Laser to cut the piece for you.

[storm9c1]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

First, you're going to have to knock down the high spots. Then either use JB weld (which I hate) or use Marv D's suggestion, which is the best yet. I would find someone with a CNC plasma or Laser to cut the piece for you.

If you get quotes for a custom CNC/Laser piece, if it exceeds $30, just get one of these and be done with it.

$25.97:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hda-225

Universal with an interesting adapter plate that may or may not seal better with sealant:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-25731

Your local parts stores may also carry those types of sandwich adapters.

Either one will need a generous amount of some sealant between the adapter and block.

Like I said earlier, if you go with one of those sandwich adapters, just loop the hose with a big loop (no kinks), or install a cooler. You may even be able to plug the cooler circuit if you modify the thermostatic valve and let it bypass all the time. But I'd like the option of adding an oil cooler later.