IR compressor help

[L&L70]

Hello,
I purchased a used 80 gallon Ingersol Rand single stage air compressor with no motor. The guy claimed the motor burned up and took it off to replace it, but never got around to it. The pump feels good and the tank is solid. I believe the original motor was an emerson 5hp with a 143T base. I was wondering if any one has the same compressor to help me out on specs. What amps, rpm, base, shaft size, pully size ect...... Thanks Alot

Matt

[RanchFlyer]

You are very likely correct at a 143t. It should be about 3500 rpm +- 100 is OK. A 4" drive sheave will land you at about 950rpm compressor speed. The belt is an A groove. If the tank pad and your pocketbook will accept it a 184t 5 HP is a much happier motor. Google NEMA electric motor sizing and you can get all of the size dimensions you could ever want. Compare the nema motor chart with your tank and make sure it will work before you order. Also be sure to get the proper rotation when ordering. There should be an arrow on the driven sheave. If not the cast in fan blades should pull air in and blow it across the compressor.
You can bet if it had a bad motor it will also need a pressure switch. When motors fail they pull high amperage burning the contacts of the switch. Before you spend a bunch of money on this, does the inlet make good vacuum? If not stop there may be more than meets the eye.

[Tri5Nerd]

Here a pic of the motor that's on my compressor, hope this helps.
Tri5

[L&L70]

Thanks for the photo Tri5. Ranchflyer, thanks for the tips. I took the filter housing off and I would say i has good suction. It put a hickey on my palm. What do you mean by "happier motor"? I looked over the contact points on the pressure switch and they appeared to be clean with no signs of over loading. Although a new switch would be cheap in the scope of things. What brands would give me bang for the buck? WEG, Baldor, World Wide Electric, ect.... Looking to buy once and forget about it. The cheap motor at TSC says its a 5 hp for around $160, but has me unsure with only being 16 amps! Plus it's a 56 base so I would have to alter my pad. And is rotation while looking at the shaft? Thanks Guys

Matt

[L&L70]

Actually the exact base centers matches a 184T/185T, but the original motor sheave shaft dia. matches the 143T/145T. Tri5's motor says its a XR56Y which I assume is some some special base that is not common. I will buy a new motor sheave if needed for the 184. Thanks Again

[RanchFlyer]

All three are quality motors when properly applied. I prefer baldor but that is more of a local support issue. Don't overlook grainger's dayton line they can be a good value. To quantify my happier motor comment lets look at a comparison everybody on this board understands. I currently have a 454 in my truck; it's a mild build about 400 HP. I could have built a 400 HP 350. For that matter even a 400 HP 283. My 454 is not stressed at all. The 350 would do it reliably but i think all would agree it is working harder. 400 HP 283s would probably have a short life, and would make that power so high in the power band it would rarely be seen. (Please nobody flame me, it is just a comparison). 5HP 56 frame is like that 283, and 5 HP at 16 amp isn't even mathematically possible. It takes about 5 amp per HP @220V single phase. The 143t/145t is more like that 350 reliable and healthy. A 184t frame makes 5HP all day and doesn't break a sweat, much like the 454 mentioned above. It is the same copper and iron in there just how tight do you want it stuffed in. (with the exception of that 56 that's funny name plate games). Now the hickey on you hand is a great sign. Nema states rotation is with drive (shaft) away from you. I still tell the motor guy which end I am looking from though. Better safe........ Lastly any motor with a Y at the end is a special build. When you see that Y all bets are off as to what it really is. If you notice IR has there part number stamped right on the name plate (8digit number in the corner) That is done so the consumer has to return to IR to buy a replacement.

[L&L70]

Great example. Thank You! Now is it safe to assume that if i go with a 1740rpm motor, I would just need the proper size pully and belt to keep the pump at the target 1000 rpm? Just looking at all my options and price ranges.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-5-HP-Ele...item2a1890c873

[RanchFlyer]

Be careful on stepping up to a 1750 RPM. It will be a heavier duty motor but it will have less mechanical advantage due to the larger sheive. This can create a higher stress (amp) at start-up. It could require a larger wire size and breaker to get you past the rush of current at start-up. However, that would lead to an unprotected motor as the breaker would be to large for normal run. In a commercial application we would be looking at a fusible disconnect, or a magnetic starter with overload protection(heaters). All of this just equals more money out of your pocket for a hobbiest install. The above is just a worst case scenerio, but somehow I always end up in the worst case.

[L&L70]

After I posted the question, I got to thinking about the mechanical disadvantage of a larger sheave. Oh well I will look for at least a 143T. Thanks for everything.

[truckdude239]

i Run a Carwash and lube station here in nc And we run baldor motors on everything, Both of our compressors have them Our Hydraulics run a 20hp and a 10 hp, We have 4 blowers that dry cars that run a 15 hp 3 phase 460 volt baldor motors each we've replaced 2 of them in 2011 they all where installed in 2001 and run normally from 8 am- 6pm With alot of start up and stops, so i am a big baldor motor fan.