How to install a balancer? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

skokie · 01-29-2005, 08:47 PM

Can someone tell me how I would install a harmonic balancer and what tools I would need?

Thanks

zooza · 01-29-2005, 09:27 PM

a good heavy hammer and a sturdy block of wood so you wont ruin the balancer. ( use the wood to cushion the blows with the hammer.
Thats the way ive always done it and no problems yet!

junkyardjohn · 01-29-2005, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zooza

a good heavy hammer and a sturdy block of wood so you wont ruin the balancer. ( use the wood to cushion the blows with the hammer.
Thats the way ive always done it and no problems yet!

A HARMOIC BALANCER REMOVAL & INSTALLATION TOOL IS ONLY ABOUT $25 OR $30. BUY ONE!! YOU'RE THRUST BEARING WILL THANK YOU FOR NOT BEATING IT WITH A B.F.H. . I ALSO COAT THE CRANK SNOUT, THE INSIDE OF THE BALANCER, AND ALL THE THREADS INSIDE THE CRANK & INSTALLATION TOOL WITH NEVER-SEIZE. WITH SOME BALACERS THAT ARE NEW OR OFF OF A DIFFERANT ENGINE, I HAVE TO HONE, WITH A BRAKE CYL. HONE TO GET THE PROPER AMOUNT OF PRESS FIT. IF THE PRESS FIT IS RIGHT OR EVEN CLOSE, YOU WON'T HAVE TO RESORT TO A SLEDGE HAMMER

JOHN

67ChevyRedneck · 01-29-2005, 09:31 PM

Use the above method except only hit the center of the balancer. Don't hit it outside of the rubber ring. I personally use this method, but you can buy a balancer puller. Some guys on the board don't like it cause several people have stripped the threads in the crank. I'd use the first method and be careful. If the motor is in the truck, you may have to use method #2.

QKENUF4U · 01-29-2005, 09:32 PM

put it on, line up the keyway, put the bolt in and use an impact wrench to draw it one the snout of the crank.
or
you could pound it on like said above.

86SILVERADO · 01-29-2005, 09:43 PM

The most important thing is to get the nose of the crank and the inside of the balancer SHINY. If both the crank and the balancer are clean and smooth then with a little wd40 the balancer will slide on like butter. You should always deburr the keyway and I usually smooth the edges of the key a little bit so there is nothing to cause any binding or friction.

Tx Firefighter · 01-29-2005, 10:54 PM

I've always thump them on with a big hammer and wood block.

If you use the bolt and an impact to draw it on, you're asking for real trouble. There was even a thread on here a couple of weeks ago where a guy ruined his crank doing it that way. I screwed up the threads in a 350 crank many years ago doing it myself.

They sell an installer tool to do it the "right" way.

skokie · 01-29-2005, 11:37 PM

Would it be a good idea to put a little grease on the crank snout and on the back of the balancer? If not grease then what could I use. Tx firefighter are you talking about this tool here?
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...6515&x=13&y=12

skokie · 01-29-2005, 11:54 PM

Or this one. It does the pulling and installing of the balancer.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...&Ntt=pro-66514

86SILVERADO · 01-30-2005, 12:34 AM

Wipe a little assembly lube on the inside lip of the seal so that you will not burn it up when you first fire up the motor.

skokie · 01-30-2005, 12:50 AM

86Silverado what seal are you talking about? The one on the balancer or the one on the crank? Can you describe it?

Thanks

69 longhorn · 01-30-2005, 01:08 AM

its probably not the best way to do things, but back in the early t mid 60's (the chevs I grew up on), did not have a bolt to hold the balancer on. we used a block of wood & a BHF to solve the problem! I cant remember cant problems that it caused.....but an installer is the best route

69L

zooza · 01-30-2005, 01:59 AM

Its up to you, there are a couple of ways to do it. I have never had any problems with the BFH method . but I cant say YOU wont! By the way, a BFH is a very helpful tool , sometimes! LOL

neonlarry · 01-30-2005, 02:07 AM

You can rent (borrow) a balancer installer from autozone. The seal is the one pressed into the timing chain cover.

70short · 01-30-2005, 02:48 AM

Do it right JEEEEEEEEZ use A installer tool!!!

4x4Poet · 01-30-2005, 06:32 AM

Yeah, skokie, that's the tool. Note that it has a very thick, no doubt grade 8, washer between the nut and the dampner. The thickness of the washer prevents the nut from deflecting it which would cause misalignment of the dampner while you were trying to tighten it on the crank. Also, the nut is tall so as to grab enough threads on the rod without gouging or stripping either itself or the rod. And I see an intermediary washer that takes the turning torque of the nut and thereby allows the big, fat washer in contact with the dampner to never turn which prevents your dampner from being scratched. The shaft has fine threads for strength and to ease the dampner on slowly.

I've heard of folks making an installer with all-thread and a few thick, grade 8 washers. I've also heard of folks who boiled the dampner in water and then slipped it on with no tool. Gloves aren't tools, right?

I've wondered whether boiling the dampner would harm the rubber between the dampner's two parts. That reminds me. I need to call TCI Auto to ask if I can boil one of their Rattler torsional vibration absorbers. I'd hate to loose the cool snake label.

Tx Firefighter · 01-30-2005, 10:08 AM

Boiling water is only 212 degrees. That balancer is going onto an engine that can exceed that temperature often. Many late model GM vehicles turn on the fan about 220 degrees. No damage will be done by the boiling water.

70 shorty · 01-30-2005, 10:41 AM

If you can rent the proper tool for free at Autzone, why wouldn't you, assuming you have an Autozone close by.

86SILVERADO · 01-30-2005, 10:54 AM

I was talking about the seal in the timing chain cover. You need to swipe a little grease on there so that when you first start up the motor it will have some lubrication this ensures that the seal will not get smoked by it being dry when the motor is first started. One other thing that has not been mentioned is if it is a used balancer and it has a grooved shaft it may need a sleeve. If the groove is only a couple thousandths you are O.K. but I have seen them where they are worn down like more than 1/16 inch deep groove. If so you will need to get a balancer sleeve to fix it so it will not leak.

slogo · 01-30-2005, 12:13 PM

I've rented tools from autozone many times, why buy when you can rent for free. unless your gonna be installing a bunch of them in the near future.

01-29-2005, 08:47 PM	#1
skokie Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: San Jose Ca. Posts: 3,300	How to install a balancer? Can someone tell me how I would install a harmonic balancer and what tools I would need? Thanks __________________ RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234

01-29-2005, 09:31 PM	#4
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Use the above method except only hit the center of the balancer. Don't hit it outside of the rubber ring. I personally use this method, but you can buy a balancer puller. Some guys on the board don't like it cause several people have stripped the threads in the crank. I'd use the first method and be careful. If the motor is in the truck, you may have to use method #2. __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

01-29-2005, 09:43 PM	#6
86SILVERADO Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Hills of Western Mass Posts: 626	The most important thing is to get the nose of the crank and the inside of the balancer SHINY. If both the crank and the balancer are clean and smooth then with a little wd40 the balancer will slide on like butter. You should always deburr the keyway and I usually smooth the edges of the key a little bit so there is nothing to cause any binding or friction. __________________ 86 Silverado C10 back to 305 power! 67 C30 Dually Dump, with 350 transplant, Rockhauler 05 Duramax 3500 "If at first you don't succeed, try a bigger hammer" Member of the 1-Ton club!

01-29-2005, 10:54 PM	#7
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	I've always thump them on with a big hammer and wood block. If you use the bolt and an impact to draw it on, you're asking for real trouble. There was even a thread on here a couple of weeks ago where a guy ruined his crank doing it that way. I screwed up the threads in a 350 crank many years ago doing it myself. They sell an installer tool to do it the "right" way. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

01-29-2005, 11:37 PM	#8
skokie Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: San Jose Ca. Posts: 3,300	Would it be a good idea to put a little grease on the crank snout and on the back of the balancer? If not grease then what could I use. Tx firefighter are you talking about this tool here? http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...6515&x=13&y=12 Attached Images __________________ RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234

01-29-2005, 09:27 PM	#2
zooza Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: LINDEN, TN. Posts: 260	a good heavy hammer and a sturdy block of wood so you wont ruin the balancer. ( use the wood to cushion the blows with the hammer. Thats the way ive always done it and no problems yet!

01-29-2005, 09:32 PM	#5
QKENUF4U Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: SUNNY WARM BIKE RIDING COTTONWOOD ARIZONA Posts: 2,097	put it on, line up the keyway, put the bolt in and use an impact wrench to draw it one the snout of the crank. or you could pound it on like said above.

01-29-2005, 11:54 PM	#9
skokie Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: San Jose Ca. Posts: 3,300	Or this one. It does the pulling and installing of the balancer. http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...&Ntt=pro-66514 __________________ RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234

01-30-2005, 12:34 AM	#10
86SILVERADO Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Hills of Western Mass Posts: 626	Wipe a little assembly lube on the inside lip of the seal so that you will not burn it up when you first fire up the motor. __________________ 86 Silverado C10 back to 305 power! 67 C30 Dually Dump, with 350 transplant, Rockhauler 05 Duramax 3500 "If at first you don't succeed, try a bigger hammer" Member of the 1-Ton club!

01-30-2005, 12:50 AM	#11
skokie Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: San Jose Ca. Posts: 3,300	86Silverado what seal are you talking about? The one on the balancer or the one on the crank? Can you describe it? Thanks __________________ RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234

01-30-2005, 01:08 AM	#12
69 longhorn Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: rock island,il,usa Posts: 5,382	its probably not the best way to do things, but back in the early t mid 60's (the chevs I grew up on), did not have a bolt to hold the balancer on. we used a block of wood & a BHF to solve the problem! I cant remember cant problems that it caused.....but an installer is the best route 69L

01-30-2005, 01:59 AM	#13
zooza Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: LINDEN, TN. Posts: 260	Its up to you, there are a couple of ways to do it. I have never had any problems with the BFH method . but I cant say YOU wont! By the way, a BFH is a very helpful tool , sometimes! LOL

01-30-2005, 02:07 AM	#14
neonlarry Registered User Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Vacaville, CA Posts: 2,746	You can rent (borrow) a balancer installer from autozone. The seal is the one pressed into the timing chain cover. __________________ 70 C/10 Light Red 350/TH350, HEI, Duals w/40 series Flows, 91 seat, LED taillights 99 Pontiac S/C GTP, SLP Ram Air hood, GMPP Konis & springs 95 Neon ACR, MP PCM, AFX UDP, 3.0 CAI

01-30-2005, 02:48 AM	#15
70short Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Boise ID Posts: 609	Do it right JEEEEEEEEZ use A installer tool!!! __________________ "72" Red CORVETTE 4-speed 350 "70" Chevy Short Bed early stages of resto. Edel 600 cfm carb Weiand Stealth Intake HEI shorty Headers 4/2 Drop 295 50R 15 TOYO on 10 inch wide corvette rally rims at all 4 corners. "CHEVY RULES"

01-30-2005, 06:32 AM	#16
4x4Poet Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: "Under Montana skies." Posts: 1,836	Yeah, skokie, that's the tool. Note that it has a very thick, no doubt grade 8, washer between the nut and the dampner. The thickness of the washer prevents the nut from deflecting it which would cause misalignment of the dampner while you were trying to tighten it on the crank. Also, the nut is tall so as to grab enough threads on the rod without gouging or stripping either itself or the rod. And I see an intermediary washer that takes the turning torque of the nut and thereby allows the big, fat washer in contact with the dampner to never turn which prevents your dampner from being scratched. The shaft has fine threads for strength and to ease the dampner on slowly. I've heard of folks making an installer with all-thread and a few thick, grade 8 washers. I've also heard of folks who boiled the dampner in water and then slipped it on with no tool. Gloves aren't tools, right? I've wondered whether boiling the dampner would harm the rubber between the dampner's two parts. That reminds me. I need to call TCI Auto to ask if I can boil one of their Rattler torsional vibration absorbers. I'd hate to loose the cool snake label. __________________ '71 GMC K20 Suburban, '71 GMC K10 Suburban, '72 Chevy C10 CST Suburban, '72 Chevy K20 clunker pickup. Last edited by 4x4Poet; 01-30-2005 at 06:36 AM.



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01-30-2005, 10:08 AM	#17
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Boiling water is only 212 degrees. That balancer is going onto an engine that can exceed that temperature often. Many late model GM vehicles turn on the fan about 220 degrees. No damage will be done by the boiling water. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

01-30-2005, 10:41 AM	#18
70 shorty Where's my beer? Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Glen Allen, VA Posts: 1,768	If you can rent the proper tool for free at Autzone, why wouldn't you, assuming you have an Autozone close by. __________________ 70 C10, shortstep, .30 over 250,Hurst shifted 3 spd parts hauler. Holley 390, Clifford Intake, Header, ported cylinder head, unknown bigger cam. 79 Corvette L82, 4 spd, black, red interior, headers, flowmasters, and unkown bigger cam. '03 Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 4x4 daily driver. 165K miles, and runs great '08 Tahoe LTZ 4x4 155K

01-30-2005, 10:54 AM	#19
86SILVERADO Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Hills of Western Mass Posts: 626	I was talking about the seal in the timing chain cover. You need to swipe a little grease on there so that when you first start up the motor it will have some lubrication this ensures that the seal will not get smoked by it being dry when the motor is first started. One other thing that has not been mentioned is if it is a used balancer and it has a grooved shaft it may need a sleeve. If the groove is only a couple thousandths you are O.K. but I have seen them where they are worn down like more than 1/16 inch deep groove. If so you will need to get a balancer sleeve to fix it so it will not leak. __________________ 86 Silverado C10 back to 305 power! 67 C30 Dually Dump, with 350 transplant, Rockhauler 05 Duramax 3500 "If at first you don't succeed, try a bigger hammer" Member of the 1-Ton club!

01-30-2005, 12:13 PM	#20
slogo Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Morristown,TN Posts: 482	I've rented tools from autozone many times, why buy when you can rent for free. unless your gonna be installing a bunch of them in the near future. Last edited by slogo; 01-30-2005 at 12:16 PM.

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