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Old 04-14-2002, 11:36 AM   #1
Jefe
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Post Pulling oil pan..

Has anybody SUCCESSFULLY pulled the oil pan and replaced the gasket with the motor still in the truck? Cured an oil leak at least? Thanks.
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-1968 Chevy SWB = Frame Off/383/Muncie Car 4 speed

-1968 Chevy SWB = numbers matching 307/Truck 4 speed.

-1966 Chevy II = 2 door No Post/130,000 Orig miles/230 6cyl/powerglide/Vintage AC

-1972 Chevy Nova = 2 door/412 Small Block

-1927 Ford Roadster = Homebuilt/widened 8"/350/ Custom Everything.
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Old 04-14-2002, 11:54 AM   #2
BUXMAN66
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i haven't but i've heard of it. i think your best bet is in getting some oil pan studs threaded up in the lip flange. it keeps the gasket from goin' haywire on you when you put the pan on. use a little adhesive to keep the gasket material either on the pan or on the lip of the block(i'd do it on the block,the studs would help.)like i said, i haven't did it but i have heard of it. it's definitly goin' to be a ***** though.might want to loosen up the motor mounts,(don't take 'em out!) and lift the engine up a little for clearanceat the front cross-member.good luck!

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Old 04-14-2002, 12:01 PM   #3
Jefe
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I know I can get it out...but studs...thats a good idea. Yah I am going to use some adhesive and stick the gasket tothe block, and will deffinately need to lift the motor so I can clear the crossmember. *whew* not looking forward to this.
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-1968 Chevy SWB = Frame Off/383/Muncie Car 4 speed

-1968 Chevy SWB = numbers matching 307/Truck 4 speed.

-1966 Chevy II = 2 door No Post/130,000 Orig miles/230 6cyl/powerglide/Vintage AC

-1972 Chevy Nova = 2 door/412 Small Block

-1927 Ford Roadster = Homebuilt/widened 8"/350/ Custom Everything.
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Old 04-14-2002, 12:14 PM   #4
billogna
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I tried twice to get a good seal on mine, finally bought a cast aluminum pan, doesn't leak a drop. I like the stud idea, but by the time I drop the pan again, I'll have forgotton about the good idea because I'm too lazy to write it down. I liked my '76 because I didn't have to jack/ hoist up the engine at all.

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Old 04-14-2002, 12:34 PM   #5
Desert Rat
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when your pans off check the edges to make sure the bolt havent been overtightened and volcanoed the pan rail,pound the edge back down to a flat surface.might as well do the rear main seal while your there.
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Old 04-14-2002, 12:46 PM   #6
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Get a FEL-PRO one piece oil pan gasket set!! Not only has mine not leaked a drop, it's reusable and comes with those plastic studs to hold the pan up while you start the bolts. Oh ya, speaking of the bolts, it comes with a new set.

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Old 04-14-2002, 01:10 PM   #7
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I have done this a few times...mainly because i did it wrong the first couple...becarefull not to push up the oil pick up in the R&R...I did this..had to remove pan again...use a stud kit...arp sells them for 19.99...a one piece fel-pro gasket is the best..IMHO...they are spendy...40 bucks, but, it was well worth it.I had to jack my motor up about 10 inches, and then it still was a pain in the a$$...I am going with a two peice timing chain cover, so when i change cams again, i wont have to screw with the oil pan....good luck

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Old 04-14-2002, 01:12 PM   #8
Jefe
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Racedvl, where did you get the one piece oil pan gasket?
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-1968 Chevy SWB = Frame Off/383/Muncie Car 4 speed

-1968 Chevy SWB = numbers matching 307/Truck 4 speed.

-1966 Chevy II = 2 door No Post/130,000 Orig miles/230 6cyl/powerglide/Vintage AC

-1972 Chevy Nova = 2 door/412 Small Block

-1927 Ford Roadster = Homebuilt/widened 8"/350/ Custom Everything.
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Old 04-14-2002, 01:23 PM   #9
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summit has them ..i got mine at a kragens
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Old 04-14-2002, 02:59 PM   #10
racedvl
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Anyone who sells FEL-PRO should have them. I got mine from work. Hehe. It rules working at a whole seller!!

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It's not what you buy, it's what you build!!

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Old 04-14-2002, 03:25 PM   #11
Longhorn Man
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I did one with out pulling the pan out from under. It was a pain, and I did drop some gasket chunks in the pan.
Man I hated that.

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