what my next step

[Steven R]

I am working on my truck getting ready to do sheet metal repairs, cab corners rockers and parts of the floor etc. and the doors also

I have removed all the interior of the cab and I am ready to remove it from the frame to make fixing it easer. (also the whole truck won't fit in the heated shop over the winter and still leave room to work).

I have all the sheetmetal parts needed to do cab repairs but have not orders any sheet metal for the doors yet, Was hoping to have found a better set but no luck yet.

questions is, do I fix doors first, and then start working on the cab? Or fix the cab first?

next question Do you blast the cab and doors first, have primed and then do metal repairs? Then after repairs are done have do you blast it again in order to have all the seam sealers put on, From what I understand seam sealer needs to be put on bare metal? I assume this project might take a year ot tow fore ready for final painting just a note

I was hoping to use a epoxy primer, and then paint it the original copper like bronze color.

Not sure what is the right order of things or if it all truly matters

[hugger6933]

First off you will want to put your seam sealer over at least a PRIMED surface.
Next what are you doing with the cab off the frame to maintain the structural integrity of the cab? Are you gonna mount it to a cab dollie similar to LFD's ? That is what I'm gonna do once off the frame. Now if your not, you need to double the efforts to brace the cab well to keep everything where it should be.
Even on the frame it needs some bracing, I took the cab corner bolts loose and the cab went "sprong!" but I was able to move it back that is when I got serious about bracing. I just took some scrap square tube[pipe or angle could work too] and tacked it to the floor and the pinch weld at the top of the window opening. you need to be able to use the doors [rusty or not] to check the fit of your cab parts while putting the rockers in to make sure everything lines up and the door gap properly. I have heard horror stories where people put in their rockers and then the door bottom hit the rocker. So it is important to keep fitting and checking the rocker to make sure you have something good to start with. The rocker job I'm in right now [it is a customers/members truck] I have the drivers side done and in prime I did the cab "kit" from the Banana store and it is awesome with the exception of not having the footwell panels. They should have been included. Anyway the cab floor and inner rocker are made together on it and I really like that. That inner piece will fix about 40% of the trucks rust issues in the cab on most trucks.[I have 6 of them to work on and I know it will fix 5 of them.]
OK I have gotten off track so if you need any more help just holler at me and I'll do my best to help. Jim

[Steven R]

Yes I have plans to build a roller frame to keep the cab supported and still able to move it around like some other members have done, I am flat out going to steal their ideas on that cart. tks guys...

Yes I will be supporting the cab with tubes and crossbracing to insure it dose not move out of line, I have seen a lot of forums that show great pic of this.

I am just in the process of learning more about seam sealers so I will have to look more in depth about that and the how to, just finding the time right now is hard. I was just reading more as you posted this and was going to edit that but o-well.

So my current plan is to have the doors and cab Blasted and primed to seal the bare metal during the repair process. I believe the blasting will help show more of the needed areas for repair. I am ordering sheetmetal for the doors next week and will fix them first, then do the cab sheetmetal and use the newly repaired doors to insure proper gap and fitment. during which I will have to read and learn as I go. thks for the tips.

[hugger6933]

OK, your gonna use your doors to fit your parts and that is a good thing but if your using door bottoms and a skin, use the cab to make sure that the door fit before welding all of that stuff up. Also be aware that on the door bottoms there are lots of the front part that are double wall and there are braces that weld to the bottom too. So it isn't as easy as just cutting off X number of inches at the bottom the welding it back up there are other thing such as the double wall and the braces PLUS angles that at witch the bottom fits on has to be taken into account. It is labor intensive but once that is done along with the rockers and other cab parts the truck should pick up pace towards getting finished. Just keep telling your self that and it will help you get through it. Jim

[Steven R]

I found this guy on you tube a while back and though Iwould learn abit from him, I like the way he did the repairs and the tips he gives out. if this work heres a link

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-yPKxFLEwI

I had to refind his page but this is a older vid but i thought a great resource.

[69chevytrucker]

Originally Posted by Steven R

I found this guy on you tube a while back and though Iwould learn abit from him, I like the way he did the repairs and the tips he gives out. if this work heres a link

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-yPKxFLEwI

I had to refind his page but this is a older vid but i thought a great resource.

that is funny i watched a ton of his vids he is really good this was the first time i seen him wearing safety glasses must have gotten bit once that or someone told him he should use them