Block Sanding?

[SuperC10Tex]

I started sanding the Fenders and Doors this weekend after two coats of epoxy and two coats 2-K primers. My question is with the "Curves" on the fenders and doors, how do you guys suggest using "blocks" to sand? I found two places on the doors that were flat enough to use a 6" Dura-block, and no area on the fenders. I am using guide coat and found a 4"x5", 1/4" thick EVA pad works good on the curves. Any advice/suggestion will be deeply appreciated...

[hugger6933]

I use some blocks that are from A.R.E. They are adjustable by having rods in them that can be removed there are 3 of them to determine the stiffness of the blocks. Other than that, some sort of foam padding would be called into service or use the block you have just go at it from a different different direction. there are a lot of curves on the front fenders of the trucks. Just pay close attention in the guide coat stages and you will be fine there are lots of curves that make this body style attractive to us for a reason. We like curves.

[skip99]

I use the adjustable blocks also, i have a whole set of durablocks that i havent touvhed in a a couple years, youll be glad you got a set....just remember to start off blocking with course sharp paper. Course like 80.....
I actually will spray featherfill once my filler is straight and give ipt a quick block with 40 just to knock the glaze off the featherfill, then go from there.

[hugger6933]

I may be close with the DA but I go 80 then 120 then maybe 180 on the block. I have a Tahoe in the shop now that had a dent in the hood and roof from a tree limb. I went that way on the hood at the end of the day today I laid down 3 coats of MP282 and it was so slick. I have just recently added the 180 grit into the arsenal of grits I use. I added 120 several years back and it made a big difference so I thought I would try some 180 grit and it makes a big diff as well. It will really get out the 80 grit scratches that the220 just won't do very well, or will do but with a lot more time and effort. Time savings is a huge benefit to a added grit of paper. It is kinda like having a 5 speed transmission but only using 1st 2nd and 5th gear. You may get by without the others but they can help you. Jim

[SuperC10Tex]

Thanks for the suggestions Guys. Another question, filler/dent work was done before epoxy and 2-k....on one door I blocked with 400 grit. I did use guide coat, any problems you guys see going with 400 if surface is pretty straight?

[skip99]

No problems, if. Its straight

[Drewkimble48]

with a inverted curve I would use dura blocks cylinder can block. i've even used a regular block sometimes depended how curved the panel is

[Cape Codder]

I have a 12" long piece of wood strapping that is one of my favorite blocks. For inside curves I use the 1/2" edge on outside curves the 2 1/2" surface. Works for wet sanding too, just wrap a full sheet around it and go. I have a bunch of other bolcks for smaller areas but they spend more time in the toolbox.

[SuperC10Tex]

Well......got everything in epoxy, 2K primer, block sanded, and about to do the final sanding before shooting (practice panel first). Oh, paint booth is ready to go. Also got back of the cab and cap painted....new rear window installed.

"Question Paint Gods"? I will be laying down SS paint, do you suggest shooting items laying flat or hanging?

Enjoy the pics, next update "Paint".......

[Cape Codder]

I prefer to hang and paint both sides at once. Why single stage? Been painting for 40 years and wouldn't paint a bicycle with ss. Especially if using metallic colors.

[hugger6933]

I too prefer the bc /cc type paint it is easier to use and more user friendly to some extent as well. Now on the panel thing, Always orient the panel so that they hang as they would if they were on the truck, so the metallic [if any] can line up all in the same way. Jim

[SuperC10Tex]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

I prefer to hang and paint both sides at once. Why single stage? Been painting for 40 years and wouldn't paint a bicycle with ss. Especially if using metallic colors.

Well this bicycle is going to be in SS! No metallic, just AU solid black....

Originally Posted by hugger6933

I too prefer the bc /cc type paint it is easier to use and more user friendly to some extent as well. Now on the panel thing, Always orient the panel so that they hang as they would if they were on the truck, so the metallic [if any] can line up all in the same way.

Jim, I will shoot the fenders, and doors hanging....the hood, and cowl flat (AU SS solid black). Thank you for all your advice and quick answers!

[Cape Codder]

I stand corrected I guess. With solid black by not clearing you save the chance of getting dust or the dreaded bug in the clear. Black doesn't seen to die in the sun like a lot of solid colors either. I just like the UV protection the clear provides. I like your paint booth.

[SuperC10Tex]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

I stand corrected I guess. With solid black by not clearing you save the chance of getting dust or the dreaded bug in the clear. Black doesn't seen to die in the sun like a lot of solid colors either. I just like the UV protection the clear provides. I like your paint booth.

Thank you Sir on the paint booth! Truck will always be stored inside and never see the sun 90% of the time. If I can get my spray gun setup right and produce a few good passes on the practice fender (no run, over spray, orange peel)....off we go with SS paint. From all I have read, if you can lay down solid black SS.....you get a great deep black with nice gloss!!

[Cape Codder]

I have found that black looks the same if cleared or just sprayed ss. Are you using a two part urethane? If so it will sand and buff similar to a two stage. The real trick with black is in the polishing. My last truck was black my present truck is white,guess which one I like better for daily driving?

[Gippetto]

Good info being exchanged here but I need to know what is ss paint and bc /cc??
I have a ways to go on my truck, still cutting out rust.

Will be building a spray booth similar to one shown. My suggestion there woukd be to put the ventiltion down low so not to pull flow across work.

[hugger6933]

I didn't build my paint booth someone who knows how did, DeVilbiss. What I have is a semi downdraft, Air comes in at the top front and goes out at the lower rear. It works quite well. Jim

[SuperC10Tex]

Originally Posted by Gippetto

Good info being exchanged here but I need to know what is ss paint and bc /cc??
I have a ways to go on my truck, still cutting out rust.

Will be building a spray booth similar to one shown. My suggestion there woukd be to put the ventiltion down low so not to pull flow across work.

Single Stage paint is your final coat, clear and base are together. BC/CC, base coat is your color, then you spray a clear coat over it. All new cars since the 90' I believe are BC/CC.

My doors, fender will be hanging in the booth, air will pull over spray outside away from items. I have hooks and ropes on "lazy Susan"...

[SuperC10Tex]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

I didn't build my paint booth someone who knows how did, DeVilbiss. What I have is a semi downdraft, Air comes in at the top front and goes out at the lower rear. It works quite well. Jim

Jim, when you do it for a living like you do...."You need the best"!!!

[Cape Codder]

I started in body work in 1974 and have worked in a lot of shops with different spray booths. Some were just a separate bay with a fan in the wall and filters in the door. Most had the tired and true Devillbiss cross draft booth. Basically a set of doors with filters and a big fan in the rear. I now work out of a shop in by back yard. It is a 24x26 garage. I do body work and painting in the same space,a fan in the back window and crack the overhead door open a couple inches in the front. Most dirt and dust in paint jobs comes from the car not the shop. Carefull masking a wait period after blowing off to let dust settle and not having other people working in the building really reduces the dust factor. I do very few complete paints as I prefer jobs that are gone in a couple days. I paint from one panel to maybe the side of a car or a nose at a time and have very little trouble with dirt in my paint. I still stress about three stage whites as even with the best booth they can give fits. In warm weather I can't paint after dark due to flies and bugs.

[Gippetto]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

I didn't build my paint booth someone who knows how did, DeVilbiss. What I have is a semi downdraft, Air comes in at the top front and goes out at the lower rear. It works quite well. Jim

Name-dropper, You can't argue with that. I will take that approach, that and Cape Codder's. Thanks.
The plan is to paint the truck in pieces, ie, cab, fenders, bed etc. after much test fitting. If it looks like there will be too much adjusting I probably should assemble / align then paint. Any advice? Not looking to muscle in on the thread.

[hugger6933]

If you have any questions about the fit put it together to get a feel of how it fits then blow it back apart to paint take shim notes if you need to. also you can drill 1/8 inch pilot holes to line everything back like it was before starting. Yes I dropped a name bomb on y'all. it not often I get to do that and when i do it is not as effective if I use Harbor freight or Northern toolJim

[Cape Codder]

I think you will get better results painting it apart and painting both sides of the parts at the same time. As long as you can get a helping hand for assembly. No tape lines this way. Alignment holes and shim notes are both good tips. If you paint the rad. support before fitting and disasembly for painting will help if you have the support where you know it goes.

[SuperC10Tex]

Okay paint Gods, below are two close pics of my surfaces. Is this smooth enough to paint? Block sanded with 180, then went to 400 dry.....

[hugger6933]

When you look at the pics and ask yourself self, is this smooth enough to paint? How do you answer yourself? You know me enough to know that the last thing I want to do is hurt anyones feelings and the second from the bottom on the list would be talk about their work because this stuff aint easy! Now my concerns are as follows, in the first pics I still see some sand scratches. I know this is gonna sting like a big red wasp, but I would if it were mine and I were faced with this panel, get out the da and some 220 grit and sand it over again the prime another coat of high build. Once it is flashed I would da dry sand 400 grit or 600 grit depending on the color choice. You have all the blocking out of the way, and if the pad is known to be flat your not gonna hurt any thing by sanding with the da as long as you don't tip the pad to "dig" the primer[ that is a big no no].
If you don't do this I'm afraid the small craters that we can see so clearly will be magnifyed once clear is put upon them. Nobody wants that. Good luck and no grumbling at me while sanding. [See I even customized my tag line for you] Jim