Hydraulic Release Bearing Gap help!

[Baged72]

I installed a Ram hydraulic release bearing on my Muncie 3 speed,
I know you take 2 measurements and subtract them to find the gap # and shim off that.
1st is measure from bell-housing to clutch fingers, for me thats 2.655'', 2nd measure from bearing fully extended to transmission face, for me thats 3.45''

2.655-3.45= -.795

I need to be at +.150-.200"

how do i fix this issue? Now if i took my measurements the other way around and subtracted, it would work..... but all my help videos and google say to use the bell housing to clutch distance first then subtract bearing to tranny distance.

[mongocanfly]

Are you sure it says to measure with the bearing extended? That would be with the clutch released...your .795 would be about right for releasing the clutch..maybe even a little more than you need.. Try measuring with the bearing released..

[Baged72]

Ok i think your right, i read it again it says collapsed.
Any way... with the bearing fully collapsed in as if i was not pushing down on the clutch i am 2.65", i had some #s wrong...

First measurement is 2.73" second is 2.65" so im at +.08, i need to be +.15 to .20
If i throw in a shim it goes backwards and will put me more at a negative.

[mongocanfly]

Do the instructions say anything about slightly machining the front bearing housing to increase clearance? Speedway motors setup instructions say to do this if you don't have enough clearance. You would need to take at least .070 off it.make sure its fully collapsed first.I see summit has bellhousing spacers that maybe a option.

[Baged72]

In the actual instructions it doesn't say anything about that but i read a few things online that said to do that, just seems like so much work just for a throw out bearing.
Could i just throw a washer between bell housing and block? Seems easier, faster and cheaper.
I just checked summit, i dont see any spacers thin enough.....

[mongocanfly]

The only thing about using washers is you would be putting a lot of pressure in a small area..washers may not all be the same thickness even though they are the same size..much better to use a full contact spacer..they have one that's .125... .125+.08=.205 which is very close to your needed clearance. Then if need be you can add a bearing shim

[Captainfab]

What you are doing is more than just replacing the TO bearing. You are converting to a different assembly. I think you will either need a thinner shim or have the front bearing retainer machined as already mentioned.

[Baged72]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

What you are doing is more than just replacing the TO bearing. You are converting to a different assembly. I think you will either need a thinner shim or have the front bearing retainer machined as already mentioned.

Thinner shim for the bellhousing right? Because right now i have 0 shims on the bearing and its still to close.

[Captainfab]

No, I would not add a shim between the block and bellhousing unless it is a last resort. I did not know that the TO bearing is too close with no shims. I thought that adding the shims you have would put it too close or pushing on the pressure plate. I would have the front bearing retainer machined to give you the clearance you need. That is providing there is enough meat there.

Have you tried to contact RAM regarding this and get their input?

Originally Posted by Baged72

Thinner shim for the bellhousing right? Because right now i have 0 shims on the bearing and its still to close.