06-18-2019, 09:40 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Halifax Nova Scotia
Posts: 24
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Air bag setup
Hey all,
I’m looking to do a manual air bag setup just to get me through the summer, I was going to do a drop coil setup but I won’t be able to get the drop of like and be safe (I’m thinking 4/6) so my new plan is to install bags on all 4 corners and manually fill them before I leave, then drop the truck at the show and refill before heading home. I was planning on using a portable type compressor (like something that would plug into a cigarette lighter). Has anyone done a setup like this? How did it work? Any input? Thanks, Tyler Posted via Mobile Device |
06-19-2019, 08:47 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 598
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Re: Air bag setup
It sounds like you’re trying to go an inexpensive route with the “manual filling” which I assume means schrader (tire type) valves instead of paddle switches or solenoid valves. There’s no reason you can’t do this but you should use 4 separate schrader valves, one going to each air bag. If you put both front (or rear) air bags with a tee fitting to a single valve, when cornering the outside air bag will compress and push air to the inside air bag inflating it, which increases body roll and hurts ride and handling. But if you use 4 schrader valves it’s the same as having 4 switches in the cab you’re just filling and releasing by schrader valve. My advice if you go this route, run all 4 lines to common spot for ease of filling and release. Also leave some extra on each line, coil it under truck or something, that way if you decide to add paddles or a valve block you don’t have to completely rerun all the lines.
I will poop on your idea of using one of those cigarette lighter compressors though, with valid reasons. They are slow, they are not meant for continuous operation and may not reach the required pressure. My truck needs 60psi in the front bags, most of those compressors barely get to 35psi when new, forget it if you’ve used it a few times. Step up to a Viar 380c or similar and you won’t have to worry about it. I’d also suggest doing some shopping on the “suspension marketplace” in the suspension section of this forum. There’s some nice package deals with bags, mounts, valves, compressors etc that may be in your budget. Here’s one I had saved https://www.bcfab.com/1963-1972-C10_c_467.html Last edited by Overdriven; 06-19-2019 at 09:09 PM. |
06-19-2019, 08:57 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 598
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Re: Air bag setup
Now to talk about height with air bags. What is your goal as far as ride height and aired out height? I bought my truck with an air ride kit installed but otherwise stock suspension which puts ride height pretty close to stock from what I can tell by pictures of stockers online. Aired out and resting on the stock bump stops equates to about a 4/6 drop. If you want to go lower you need drop spindles, c-notch (or bigger), adjustable Panhard bar, shock relocators at the least.
Last edited by Overdriven; 06-19-2019 at 09:03 PM. |
06-20-2019, 09:27 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Azle,Texas
Posts: 2,248
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Re: Air bag setup
Nice answer Overdriven. 👍🏼
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Brian 1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod. |
06-20-2019, 09:57 PM | #5 |
Post Whore
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 10,912
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Re: Air bag setup
X's3 with Overdriven! Although I may not actually poop on your idea I know it isn't at all practical. It would take you at least 60 minutes to get all your bags pumped up using that kind of compressor (15 minutes per bag) It is likely you would melt the compressor before you were finished.
Here is my Burban on bags sitting on the bumpstops and on the bags with the bump stops cut off. (They were removed when I bought the truck and I have since reinstalled them). And the final photo is a comfortable ride height for long distance highway driving. I can go a little lower around town and still be safe and comfortable (About 1"). I hope this helps if you want to go lower it will take the modifications previously mentioned.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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