Cost of paint job?

[Thealien]

I have a 2 wheel drive 1972 Blazer arriving any day now.

What are the going costs of a quality single color paint job assuming some panel alignment and gap adjustment. There is no side trim or emblems (I like the clean look). I don’t believe there will be any rust repair (famous last words.

Thinking a nice deep blue.

Just wondering if I budgeted enough.

Thanks
Mark

[too much stuff]

Hard to get any type of quality paint and body for under about 8 grand here. There are cheaper places around, but you get what you pay for too. Of course rust repair will add on top of that quickly.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by too much stuff

Hard to get any type of quality paint and body for under about 8 grand here. There are cheaper places around, but you get what you pay for too. Of course rust repair will add on top of that quickly.

I live just south of Boston MA but will be paying with cash. That is in the ballpark of my budget.

[mongocanfly]

I got quoted 7k to paint the cab of my C30...so I did it myself

[LS short box]

If you don't touch the Blazer and just deliver it to a body shop you trust I think $10-12 thousand is more like it. Even that may be light. The reason I say that is just doing some basic math. I would guess most body shops in the Boston MA will be at least $100 per hour. If they are going to pull the doors and sheet metal so all the jams and edges can be done properly. Spot repairs, sanding before priming, two rounds of block sanding, prep before paint, sealer and then paint along clear coat. Then color sand and buff. I think 100-120 hours? That's one tech 2-3 weeks. So $10,000-12,000? Material costs $3000 for mid-range paint, primer, sealer, clear and other shop materials? As said above that means no rust repair. That's another whole can of worms.
Don't mean to rain on your project just .02.

[Palf70Step]

Type of paint, the amount of prep work and finalization work will vary the cost. But I would say anywhere from 5K to 9K. Single stage doing only the outside, would be cheapest. The prep and finalization after paint is what costs ya. Man-hours rack up quick in good body work.

[lux]

My bigger problem was finding a shop that would paint my truck. Most shops make good money on insurance jobs that are much easier. I checked around town and most of the shops that used to paint classics and hot rods declined.
My truck was completly striped down and I was quoted 5k to 8k. sense then they have found rust on the door bottoms and a little in one cab corner. So I'm sure the price is going up a little. But, damn they got all the line straight and panels lined up perfect. They have had it for 5 months now, hopefully I'll get it back soon. I don't think that price is too high for all that work.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

I got quoted 7k to paint the cab of my C30...so I did it myself

^^^X2^^^ I've only paid for 2 paint jobs ever. I just needed some delivery trucks to be sprayed white and I put the logos on after that. The pick up cost 900. and the 16 ft. box truck (just the box, not the cab) was 1000. Basically lousy but white.

When it's finally time for my 72 C10 to be painted I'm with Mongo on this one. If its going to cost that much for a nice job, I'd much rather buy the right tools and do it myself. I've always wanted to learn how anyways. It's definitely the hard way but in the end, I'll be able to say I did it myself and still have the tools. That's what I call "winning!"

[LS short box]

Here's what I did to keep cost down.
I did all the stripping of paint down to bare metal. My 68 C10 had three layers of unknown paint.
I've had a few projects painted locally and one of the shops allowed me to do all the small dent removal and block sanding in their shop under their supervision. Many hours of skim coating, sanding two rounds of high build primer. My truck was completely blown apart so I would take in parts one at a time so not take up too much room in their shop. It was a great learning experience for as I've never done any body work before.
Famous last words from the techs in the shop as I asked them if a part looked good was "keep sanding". Maybe that's an option for you?

[Thealien]

Thanks for all the replies. I am disabled so I can't help much. I could deliver with no interior. Probably remove bumpers and grill.

I have a $10,000 budget but if issues were found I could come up with a couple thousand more. I agree finding a painter that won't sit on it for a year is going to be difficult.

Really want a 1968 front clip and don't want repop parts and finding rust free up here is impossible.

Needs a complete interior and would like parchment and or parchment houndstooth.

Complete suspension and not interested in laying frame of notching frame. I DO want a nice ride and handling.

And a 6.0/6.2 aluminum LS swap with a 4L65/70.

Any guesses how broke I will be?

[rsavage]

Originally Posted by Thealien

Thanks for all the replies. I am disabled so I can't help much. I could deliver with no interior. Probably remove bumpers and grill.

I have a $10,000 budget but if issues were found I could come up with a couple thousand more. I agree finding a painter that won't sit on it for a year is going to be difficult.

Really want a 1968 front clip and don't want repop parts and finding rust free up here is impossible.

Needs a complete interior and would like parchment and or parchment houndstooth.

Complete suspension and not interested in laying frame of notching frame. I DO want a nice ride and handling.

And a 6.0/6.2 aluminum LS swap with a 4L65/70.

Any guesses how broke I will be?

If you are having all the work done by someone else - body/paint, front end, engine/trans swap, suspension, interior, etc. I would guess at least 50K for labor and materials and I am more than likely way light.

[mongocanfly]

hard to put a price on another mans work...but id say for all you want...20k min..

[dieseldawg142]

had my crewcab painted exactly a year ago. cost me 10 g cash, a cucv bumper, and some beer.
all 4 rockers replaced, cab corners, a piece of floor and a butt load of dents everywhere.
the shop i took it too does 95% muscle cars, rods, customs etc, very little collision work or everyday stockers.
took it in on their slow time of the yr and they were able to get everyone on it, went in dec 15 and came out feb 10.
to keep costs down, i stripped and assembled the truck myself, and i went with single stage so i could touch up off road rashes myself.
having a couple buddy's working there insured it was not a slap job

[Tman]

I delivered mine with body work finished, blocked to 400, and sprayed with epoxy as a sealer. It was assembled for gaps on the rolling chassis. They checked over gaps, blocked it one last time inside and out, and touched up a few spots. Disassembled, Base/clear two tone, reassembled, and cut and buff. There was about $4500 in materials sand paper and misc. Ended up right around 100 hours total. Grand total $12000. I was hoping it was going to be lower than that, but it turned out much nicer than I had expected.

Good luck on your project, it sure is fun once they are finished!

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by rsavage

If you are having all the work done by someone else - body/paint, front end, engine/trans swap, suspension, interior, etc. I would guess at least 50K for labor and materials and I am more than likely way light.

That is my total budget. I am budgeting $15,000 for LS engine transmission swap, $10,000 suspension, $10,000 paint, $5000 interior which leaves $10,000 for all the little stuff. I am scouring ebay and craigslist for engine transmission take outs with between 50-100,000 miles. I understand I "could" be $5-10,000 low but this is the budget I am trying to stick to. I have WTB adds for some of the needed parts and these are not included in the budget as I can buy a few here and there?

The person doing the work usually bills $100/hour but said on a project like this he would do $75.

We shall see. I plan on driving it this summer. If the fabricator can squeeze me in a little here and there we might do the suspension this year. I don't need Art Morrison or Heidt suspension. Might go with all CPP or? Kind of why I am asking questions and doing my research before starting. Nothing worse than buying parts twice and paying for labor twice!

Thanks for all the replies.

[NorCalC20LWB]

I don't know body/paint work at all, so here is what I am paying here in Sacramento. Around $12k.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by NorCalC20LWB

I don't know body/paint work at all, so here is what I am paying here in Sacramento. Around $12k.

For your area that looks good (should be similar around here). I could live with that. Just got off the phone with a guy that does excellent work and even can do pick and lead on the vehicles that use that. With that being said he doesn't want to even ball park it without seeing (and probably stripping) it in person and I totally understand. He said with no rust repair and complete exterior and interior paint it would start at about $12,000 and if surprises are found he could easily be double

Probably can't afford him but I will have him look at it. He is doing another Blazer in a few months so I can see his work quality as it progresses.

[NorCalC20LWB]

Originally Posted by Thealien

For your area that looks good (should be similar around here). I could live with that. Just got off the phone with a guy that does excellent work and even can do pick and lead on the vehicles that use that. With that being said he doesn't want to even ball park it without seeing (and probably stripping) it in person and I totally understand. He said with no rust repair and complete exterior and interior paint it would start at about $12,000 and if surprises are found he could easily be double

Probably can't afford him but I will have him look at it. He is doing another Blazer in a few months so I can see his work quality as it progresses.

Ernie Torres, who is doing the painting, seemed reasonable to me also. He said he has some padding built in for unforeseen problems, but I'm sure there would be a limit to that if something really bad popped up. Just takes a while, 15 months so far, but should be done in couple of weeks. Pretty sure he uses things like an old truck to keep his guys busy when slower, gets to it when he can. Would expect to pay much more if he had his guys working solely on my truck until done. Can be frustrating, but happy with the results.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

It almost sounds cheaper to take a month off work to paint the Blazer ones own self. Along with a bunch of new tools to boot.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

It almost sounds cheaper to take a month off work to paint the Blazer ones own self. Along with a bunch of new tools to boot.

Yeah, I guess if you have that kind of money to spend, but I think I'd rather invest the time and money into doing it myself.

[Thealien]

Well I am an idiot!! I know better than to buy from pictures alone. The Blazer arrived an hour ago and it is a POS!!. Torque boxes and most of the undercarriage look great. Radiator support, Front fender horns all look great.

Floor by rockers is rotted with holes. Holes in top of Rocker and bottom of quarter. I just doubled the cost of paint. All the usual rust areas look so good I took a gamble and lost. Nobody to blame but me, I Know better. And I purchased from a forum member who I will not name but he said everything works. Barely stays running. Horn doesn't work, no gear indicator on the tilt column, shifter so loose I swear it will fall out. Good thing I don't drink or I would be on a bender.

[Thealien]

I have listed this Blazer for sale. I think it is in OK shape just not what I was looking for. Here is the for sale add.

LISTED HERE IN TRUCKS FOR SALE

[hugger6933]

I own a body shop Used to build late model wrecks only but started going back to first love GM muscle car and after my second brother died 67-72 trucks to kinda honor him as he loved them as I have come to. See he was old enough to drive them when they were around, Dad traded trucks every six months cause being on the farm was hard on them. First thing I noticed in the pic is of course the door has been filled on the underside making me think you will find all kinds of adventures waiting on the outside for you to deal with meaning more time to strip then epoxy and fresh start and all. Sorry you didnt get what you hoped for. One person said take off a month buy some tools and do it your self, well it isnt that easy . I have often said that is why they call it bodywork instead of bodyfun. As for the hundred per hour Id love half that as nobody around here is having anything done. They talk of how good the economy is and that is great but we are 100 percent farming related and they are scared. They had great crops just didnt get paid well for them. How this for a post all over the place while trting to stay on topic?

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

I own a body shop Used to build late model wrecks only but started going back to first love GM muscle car and after my second brother died 67-72 trucks to kinda honor him as he loved them as I have come to. See he was old enough to drive them when they were around, Dad traded trucks every six months cause being on the farm was hard on them. First thing I noticed in the pic is of course the door has been filled on the underside making me think you will find all kinds of adventures waiting on the outside for you to deal with meaning more time to strip then epoxy and fresh start and all. Sorry you didnt get what you hoped for. One person said take off a month buy some tools and do it your self, well it isnt that easy . I have often said that is why they call it bodywork instead of bodyfun. As for the hundred per hour Id love half that as nobody around here is having anything done. They talk of how good the economy is and that is great but we are 100 percent farming related and they are scared. They had great crops just didnt get paid well for them. How this for a post all over the place while trting to stay on topic?

Funny thing is the rear floor and torque/rocker boxes look excellent from every angle. Minimum I need doors, inner and outer rockers and the 4" or so piece of the floor they sell and the bottom quarters at least on the drivers side. By the time someone strips paint, cuts and welds pieces in I wonder if the labor would be better to just bolt on new quarters, doors, and the 68 front clip I want. There would probably be a lot less prep of the reproduction panels than the ones on my Blazer? Oh well it is what it is. I either sell it or go broke trying to make it what I want!

[davischevy]

If you are depending on others, three years and $100,000 for the entire project if you push everyone.

I start with the solidest rust free rigs I can find, and doing everything myself, I usually spend $20,000, $25,000 on parts and materials. Custom chassis and engine work will add to that cost. It will easily take 1000 hours to do the work you are talking about.

That said, unless you just truly enjoy the work, like I do, and you are willing to wait, it is much better to buy one finished.

Go to the build threads and see how many lost steam and are now languishing in shops. Non (including my Arkansas K10 in 4x4 builds) are on the original schedule.