Changed out my starter today(3 bolt starter L6 250ci - Weird noise once engine starts

[Yamariv]

I've been searching old threads but can't seem to find the exact problem I seem to be having.

The truck starts and engages perfectly but once the truck is running, theres a kind of squeal/metal clanging that goes on for a few seconds then stops. Sounds like it's coming from the starter but by the time I get over to that side to stick my ears near it, the noise stops.

I've started it about 6-8 times with the new starter and each time the noise doesn't happen for as long. I'm guessing I need to shim the starter out but how do you shim a 3 bolt bell housing style starter. I'm guessing the starter gear is in too deep and getting hung up before it finally gets sucked back in?

Anyone had this same problem, what did you do to fix it?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

I've been searching old threads but can't seem to find the exact problem I seem to be having.

The truck starts and engages perfectly but once the truck is running, theres a kind of squeal/metal clanging that goes on for a few seconds then stops. Sounds like it's coming from the starter but by the time I get over to that side to stick my ears near it, the noise stops.

I've started it about 6-8 times with the new starter and each time the noise doesn't happen for as long. I'm guessing I need to shim the starter out but how do you shim a 3 bolt bell housing style starter. I'm guessing the starter gear is in too deep and getting hung up before it finally gets sucked back in?

Anyone had this same problem, what did you do to fix it?

Yup, bendix is not releasing. That would be hard on the starter to keep starting it that way. I don't have any suggestions on shimming that starter because I have never had that problem with an inline. Hopefully others will chime in on this....

LockDoc

[RustyPile]

First thing I'd try is stretching the solenoid return spring. Remove the Starter, and then remove the solenoid by removing the screw that attaches the starter windings to the bottom post on the solenoid. Remove the 2 screws holding the solenoid to the bendix housing. Give the solenoid a slight twist and it will come free. You'll find the spring wrapped around the solenoid plunger.. Stretch the spring about an inch and put everything back together.. If the bendix still hangs up after the engine starts -- take the starter back and get another one.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Additionally, you might make sure the tin Flywheel Dust Shield is firmly secured to the bellhousing. On my 292. I have to pull the front flat plate to mount the 3 Starter bolts.
Make sure you put it back correctly and that the tin parts are not interfering with the clutch action. BTDT.
Also a lot easier than rebuilding the starter and/or solenoid.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

First thing I'd try is stretching the solenoid return spring. Remove the Starter, and then remove the solenoid by removing the screw that attaches the starter windings to the bottom post on the solenoid. Remove the 2 screws holding the solenoid to the bendix housing. Give the solenoid a slight twist and it will come free. You'll find the spring wrapped around the solenoid plunger.. Stretch the spring about an inch and put everything back together.. If the bendix still hangs up after the engine starts -- take the starter back and get another one.

Ok sounds good, I'll be trying this today hope it works! I have the old starter here, if it doesn't should I maybe try the old spring in it? Anything else to try while I'm out there?

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Additionally, you might make sure the tin Flywheel Dust Shield is firmly secured to the bellhousing. On my 292. I have to pull the front flat plate to mount the 3 Starter bolts.
Make sure you put it back correctly and that the tin parts are not interfering with the clutch action. BTDT.
Also a lot easier than rebuilding the starter and/or solenoid.

Hmm, not quite sure I follow you. My plate if I remember correctly is there but bolted in place by by other bolts in the bell housing so when I remove the starter, its just flopping there until the starter pins it back down

[Jason Banks]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

Ok sounds good, I'll be trying this today hope it works! I have the old starter here, if it doesn't should I maybe try the old spring in it? Anything else to try while I'm out there?

I think this is probably it.

You many not even need to stretch it much, just get the solenoid off and make sure nothing is binding or rubbing. I'd say get the spring out of the old one and see how it feels when you check out the one on the new starter.

That's the nice thing about the Inline, easy access to the starter.

[72SB]

OP

If you just bought the starter, just take it back. Not worth the hassle of "fixing" a new starter.....nor should you have to

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by 72SB

OP

If you just bought the starter, just take it back. Not worth the hassle of "fixing" a new starter.....nor should you have to

That's the complicated part lol..I was ordering a bunch of parts from the US and went across the border to pick a big load of parts up and now returning is not really an option. It would cost me half as much as the starter is worth to ship it back.

It's a gamble I took that didn't pay off in this case lol. Parts prices here in Canada are crazy compared to what you lucky buggers get for options in the US. I'm very jealous!

Fixing the starter is really the only option besides buying another one locally and throwing this one out

[geezer#99]

I’ve had the same thing happen on a few starters.
My cure was to spray the bendix with carb and choke cleaner to remove any hard dried grease and then a shot of graphite grease to re-lube it.
Maybe not the best way but worked for me.

Now I’ll sit here waiting for all the naysayers to comment!

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

Hmm, not quite sure I follow you. My plate if I remember correctly is there but bolted in place by by other bolts in the bell housing so when I remove the starter, its just flopping there until the starter pins it back down

I've had them get slightly out of place and hit the flywheel after installing a starter. It makes a hell of a racket.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I’ve had the same thing happen on a few starters.
My cure was to spray the bendix with carb and choke cleaner to remove any hard dried grease and then a shot of graphite grease to re-lube it.
Maybe not the best way but worked for me.

Now I’ll sit here waiting for all the naysayers to comment!

If it's worked there's nothing wrong with that fix! Thanks for the idea, thats something quick I can do while the starter is out!

Just came back from a starter repair place and they were awesome. Got 3 universal shims and a new spring to try out. I'll do the lube trick and put in the new spring and shim then cross my fingers!

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I've had them get slightly out of place and hit the flywheel after installing a starter. It makes a hell of a racket.

Interesting! I'll take a better look when I'm in there this aft. I think my plate was pretty solid but I didn't really pay much attention to it.

[72SB]

OP, didn't see your location so yeah you are in DIY mode.

I think you will resolve the issue as mentioned with a spring stretch or swap in old one. Once you get it apart clean & lubricate as mentioned also. Then go have a cold "Blue".

I married a Canadian so know the drill up there.

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by 72SB

OP, didn't see your location so yeah you are in DIY mode.

I think you will resolve the issue as mentioned with a spring stretch or swap in old one. Once you get it apart clean & lubricate as mentioned also. Then go have a cold "Blue".

I married a Canadian so know the drill up there.

Haha, had a beer for you!

Ok so here's the update..I'm getting sick of sliding under my truck for the past 2 days! lol.

I pulled the starter, stretched my spring (the new one didn't push nearly as hard as the one in the reman starter) and added .10 shims then later doubled them for .20. I lubed up all the parts which seemed to be moving nice and smooth before I opened it up.

The verdict.. it still does it! When I first started it up it rattled for about 10 seconds straight and I was able to slide under the truck to confirm the sound was coming from the starter. (Its a little nerve racking sliding under a running truck!)

I ended up starting and stopping it about 20 times and it slowly seemed to do it less and less to the point where it would rattle for a second then stop or not rattle at all about here and there. The starter sounds great though when engaging and starting which is weird. I also tried holding the key longer than normal when starting and could hear the gear spinning freely on its own once the truck starter so I don't think it's hanging up.

The sound to me sounds like something is grinding against the flex plate but I've looked at mine and there's no way, the flywheel is far away and the plate is intact. Weird!

Anyway, I'm gonna run it for a few weeks and really take note of how it's acting. Might even swing by the starter shop and get them to listen to see what they think.

At least the truck is drivable though!

[Fbks_Cruiser]

“. Might even swing by the starter shop and get them to listen to see what they think. “

Why not have the starter shop rebuild your old one and reinstall it?

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by Fbks_Cruiser

“. Might even swing by the starter shop and get them to listen to see what they think. “

Why not have the starter shop rebuild your old one and reinstall it?

Thinking of this yes or Napa has one for $200 with a lifetime warranty. I'll ask the starter shop to see what it would cost to rebuild my original one.

For now though I'm gonna drive it the way it is and see how it acts for a while

Thanks for all the help boys!

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

Thinking of this yes or Napa has one for $200 with a lifetime warranty. I'll ask the starter shop to see what it would cost to rebuild my original one.

For now though I'm gonna drive it the way it is and see how it acts for a while

Thanks for all the help boys!

Just a quick update, ended up having my original starter rebuilt and put it in. Noise gone! No idea what the issue with the noisy starter was

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

Just a quick update, ended up having my original starter rebuilt and put it in. Noise gone! No idea what the issue with the noisy starter was

Good to know and happy for you.
What did the shop charge for the rebuild?

If your noisy starter was assembled or refurbished in the 3rd World, possibly some kid was making a silent protest against starvation wages by dropping in an extra screw as an ''industrial action.''

[Yamariv]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Good to know and happy for you.
What did the shop charge for the rebuild?

If your noisy starter was assembled or refurbished in the 3rd World, possibly some kid was making a silent protest against starvation wages by dropping in a extra screw as an ''industrial action.''

Lol, never thought of sabotage! The rebuild cost $100 dollars with tax. It was a little more than I was expecting but I asked for a new flywheel gear to be put on on top of the rebuild. If it lasts, I'm happy

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

Lol, never thought of sabotage! The rebuild cost $100 dollars with tax. It was a little more than I was expecting but I asked for a new flywheel gear to be put on on top of the rebuild. If it lasts, I'm happy

Sounds reasonable with the gear swap.
Good luck.

[Already Gone]

Originally Posted by Yamariv

I've been searching old threads but can't seem to find the exact problem I seem to be having.

The truck starts and engages perfectly but once the truck is running, theres a kind of squeal/metal clanging that goes on for a few seconds then stops. Sounds like it's coming from the starter but by the time I get over to that side to stick my ears near it, the noise stops.

I've started it about 6-8 times with the new starter and each time the noise doesn't happen for as long. I'm guessing I need to shim the starter out but how do you shim a 3 bolt bell housing style starter. I'm guessing the starter gear is in too deep and getting hung up before it finally gets sucked back in?

Anyone had this same problem, what did you do to fix it?

Had the same problem with the starter on my 92 Suburban especially in the bitter cold Winter days. Bought 2 brand new starters one an A/C Delco an one a Wilson, again brand new not rebuilts, and had the same problem with each. Finally took my original starter which was original to the Burb to Phoenix Starter and Alternator here in Saskatoon and they rebuilt it and problem solved. If there is a shop like that in Regina take the starter there and let em do their thing and your problem will be over. http://www.phoenixstarter.com/

[Ironangel]

I was going to suggest removing the battery wire, the big red one, and use a 16ga jumper wire to activate the bendix gear solenoid. The solenoid is what moves the bendix. By doing this you can set the clearance for the gear to the flywheel. On a three bolt configuration, adding shims to the two bolts nearest the flywheel and no shim on the rear bolt will rock the nose of the starter away from the flywheel. The reverse procedure to close the distance. I dont think you were hearing bendix spring issues, you were hearing a starter dragging on the flywheel. These starters, the aluminum block the bolts go through to be exact, are probably as old as the truck and have been on and off God only knows how many vehicles before a Chinaman rebuilt it. The mating surfaces are worn and the QC for the new castings is questionable at best! Those machined surfaces are critical and the tolerances are most likely never measured. The knurling on starter bolts isnt there for looks, it's there to locate that easily damaged pot metal nose casting. Sometimes the mating surfaces on the engine blocks and bell housings have been damaged or modified. I have never had to shim a starter until recent years and those starter braces have become a near must for the old factory correct boat anchors...By engaging the solenoid with a jumper, you can get under there and measure your clearance, you can visually see how deep or shallow the engagement is. The End