3/4 ton rear diff help

[michael bustamante]

Ok so I picked up another done truck and pulled the rear end out only to find driver side spi s good but passenger side won't budge. Pulled the cover a d the gears spin around the locked up gear . No glitter in the oil no chipped teeth that I see. Ok so I think maybe the brakes are seized.. now I'm trying pull the drum of and man it's not moving out.. it'll wiggle a little. That's it.
Any ideas why the passenger side would not move at all? And any counters on removing this drum. I'm beating the hell out of it after removing the 2 screws
10 bolt 3/4 ton rear 8 lug

[72c20customcamper]

You need to remove the axle first then the cage nut . Drum will then come off with the hub . Much easier than trying to separate the drum hub assembly

[Steeveedee]

Maybe try using some tools and back the adjuster off enough to allow the drum to rotate. I've seen rivets into the drum where the friction material was completely gone, believe it or not. Took a lot more backing off of the adjuster to get the drum off.

[KQQL IT]

My 68 had the adjuster spring break. The spun themselves until the adjuster separated.
Had to cut drum open to disassemble. And was outboard drum

[jerry moss]

looking at your second picture that gear oil looks like it has water in it and it appears to have rust on the ring gear. i know that has nothing to do with your question but i thought i'd point it out.

[michael bustamante]

I appreciate all the help fellas. I'll try spinning the adjuster back manually first if that doesn't do it I'll remove the hub.. never do e a 3/4 ton. I'll be taking lots of pics.
Side note... when I removed the brake cables the seized side was tight to where I had to cut the cable at the coupler to remove it. Driver side separated no problem.

[Ol Blue K20]

It looks like a dana 60 open diff. Get the axles out and use shop manual or u tube university to help you through.

[michael bustamante]

72c20custom camper. Any idea what size this nut is so I can go buy the socket?

[Accelo]

They make stamped steel sockets for this size nut.
Just measure it across the flats for the size.

[KQQL IT]

Hammer and a chisel will work as well.

[Steeveedee]

To get it apart, just push the locking tang away from the nut, and use #460 Channel Locks or similar to remove the outer nut. Then slide the locking washer off and unscrew the inner nut. There's a spec for end play in the service manual, but I've installed many of these over the years by feel, without any failures.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

72c20custom camper. Any idea what size this nut is so I can go buy the socket?

I just used a water pump pliers like others said a punch and hammer work well also

[Ol Blue K20]

I have the welded socket. All the ways mentioned will work fine.

[michael bustamante]

Imma go give it a shot now

[57taskforce]

Don’t forget to knock the lock tab back so the nut will spin.

[Ol Blue K20]

It looks scary, but it's easier than it looks.

[sloGMC]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

72c20custom camper. Any idea what size this nut is so I can go buy the socket?

It's a 2-3/8" socket. I used the Performance Tool W83240 socket for mine.

When you get to reassembly, please, for the love of god, use the nut and the correct preload sequence and torque specs from the manual. I had my Dana 60 rebuilt last year by a local specialist and one of the axles seized less than 7 miles from the shop on my way home, destroying the entire rear end. They did not lubricate bearings correctly and did not follow the torque specs.

[sloGMC]

Not sure if you are going through the whole assembly but I'll just throw out some part numbers while I'm here:

Axle Flange Gaskets; p/n QU30051 from TorqueKing. If you're not into RTV, they seem to be the only place on the planet that has them
Drum brake spring kit; Dorman HW7027 should be correct. There's a bunch of others on RockAuto that are not correct for the Dana

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by sloGMC

Not sure if you are going through the whole assembly but I'll just throw out some part numbers while I'm here:

Axle Flange Gaskets; p/n QU30051 from TorqueKing. If you're not into RTV, they seem to be the only place on the planet that has them
Drum brake spring kit; Dorman HW7027 should be correct. There's a bunch of others on RockAuto that are not correct for the Dana

I got them from Rockauto cheap too

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by sloGMC

It's a 2-3/8" socket. I used the Performance Tool W83240 socket for mine.

When you get to reassembly, please, for the love of god, use the nut and the correct preload sequence and torque specs from the manual. I had my Dana 60 rebuilt last year by a local specialist and one of the axles seized less than 7 miles from the shop on my way home, destroying the entire rear end. They did not lubricate bearings correctly and did not follow the torque specs.

I’d bet they didn’t pack the bearings . When I did the 72 the axle nuts were hand tight . I did the preload and torque to factory when I replaced the bearings last year

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

I’d bet they didn’t pack the bearings . When I did the 72 the axle nuts were hand tight . I did the preload and torque to factory when I replaced the bearings last year

I'd bet money on that too. You'd think that an axle shop would know that.

[sloGMC]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

I’d bet they didn’t pack the bearings

Correct. The first time around he said something like, "oh yeah, you just squirt some diff fluid into the hub and the rest of the lubrication will come down from the center section". He also mentioned using a hammer/chisel in lieu of proper socket for the nut. I thought it was crazy, but hey, he's has a shop not me. His method may work for a newer vehicle, but it seems like the stock Dana 60 cover drain plug for our trucks is not high enough to permit fluid to travel down the axle tubes on initial fill. You'd have to do the tilt method and refill.

After it seized I dug into the manual more and found the blurb at the beginning that specifically says when you replace bearings, "repack with lubricant".

I mentioned using the socket too because the original reason I ended up having my first Dana rebuilt was due to an axle leak. I thought it was another seal failure, but it was actually the hub working itself off the spindle due to the nuts spinning freely, because the axle lock-plate tab broke off and the index pin sheared. The year before I had an axle seal replaced by a different local shop, and based on the next coincidence and the marks on the nut, I have a feeling that was the seal they replaced and that they too used the "torque-to-bang" method, instead of a wrench. They also reassembled my drums incorrectly, so that was cool.

Anyways.... use the socket and a torque wrench.