A quick primer warning.

[Low Elco]

DO NOT shoot Slick Sand / featherfill G2 over etch primer. It makes it gooey. I have always just used ss over spots and sometimes large expanses of bare metal, but I've been wanting to do this super-right. Dude at paint store said to go etch/ss to be best. Well, that sucked. Next
time we strip, we find some epoxy, then ss. Anyway, just thought I'd throw that into the mix. YMMV. Thanks, Chip.

[HuggerCST]

I had the same problem over epoxy. I thought it was something that I did wrong, but then I spayed it over factory GM primer (sand through areas on a '07 GMC) and it even turned gooey over the factory primed areas. It was fine over the factory paint, bare metal, and filler, but was gooey everywhere that the factory primer was exposed. After that a friend asked a Dupont rep about it, and he said that they don't recommend shooting it over epoxy.

[turp mcspray]

I use G2 over both etch, and epoxy. I have never had a problem with either. Because it is such a high build product, I always let the etch or epoxy, sit overnight, before shooting the G2. If you're not in a big hurry, maybe giving it more time to dry will cure your problem.

[HuggerCST]

Originally Posted by turp mcspray

I use G2 over both etch, and epoxy. I have never had a problem with either. Because it is such a high build product, I always let the etch or epoxy, sit overnight, before shooting the G2. If you're not in a big hurry, maybe giving it more time to dry will cure your problem.

I thought that was my problem when I sprayed it over the epoxy, but the GM primer was 4 years old. Maybe I need to give the Poly primer more time to cure. I waited overnight and it was fine on the surface, but when I sanded through the poly primer, the primer underneath was gummy.

[Low Elco]

Good suggestion, turp. It had overnight plus. About 27 hrs out. HOSED it last night, seems good and hard this am. IDK WTF happened, but I was less than amused. I've always had great results w/ ss, but this went to hell in a kiddie car. Ah well, onward.
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[rdscott3]

any of the polyester high builds, slicksand, feather fil , ect, require adequate flash time for each coat, thats really important i've found out, and if you have excessive film build it takes awhile to cure throughout... metal temp is important too.. the TDS says not to use etch under polyester, thats just a normal thing i've known as a painter. Evercote has a new polyester called "feather fill 4:1" that says its compatible with etch primers.. i have used the product , excellent build , but not quite as good sanding properties as slick sand, but LOTS easier to mix...

[turp mcspray]

As stated, flash time is very important, due to the high film build of the product. My guess is you put it on too heavy, or too fast between coats. Thus allowing the wet product to "attack" the substrate. G2 is supposed to be formulated to go over etch. I think it even says so on the label. Although we all hate to admit it, most problems are caused by the guy using the product. LOL! Don't give up on it, as it is a really good product.

[Low Elco]

I'm not giving up on it, I'm just never going over etch with it again. Talked to the paint store yesterday and others have had MAJOR issues with same deal. G2 is better but still probs. Etch was 27hrs dry and I shot the e coated door next to it same time same way no probs. Just passin on the info.
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