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Old 04-02-2009, 06:31 PM   #1
88 Dippy
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well ewww

Got the rockers off and started the valve seal replacement. The heads are all covered in this thick tar stuff (can not read the casting number on the heads it's so thick) also found some of the issues i have been having. all most all of the rockers on the driver side head where loose. One rocker on the exhaust side was completely off the valve (now i know why it was popping through the carb)


So any idea on how to clean the tar off with out removing the heads? I was thinking just spray it down good with some break clean? I am going to change the oil so i am not worried a bought contaminating the oil.
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1974 chevy Cheyenne C10 "The Mutt":4x4 convertion, NP208, 700-R4, stock 350, edelbrock Torker intake, edelbrock 600 CFM carb, duels

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Old 04-02-2009, 07:15 PM   #2
68gmsee
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Re: well ewww

If the heads are that bad, you may need to have them reworked. When you have them reworked, they will clean them also.

Aside from that, and if you are pretty sure they're not shot, you just have to use elbow grease. Scrape the majority of gook with putty knife and then use a thick bristle engine brush and diesel or engine cleaner to get most of what's left. I've gotten them pretty clean that way. It sure is messy though.

I suppose a pressure washer can do it if you have access to one, but be prepared to have grease/oil splatter all over the place.
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Old 04-02-2009, 07:18 PM   #3
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Re: well ewww

i am sure the heads are junk just don't have the time or money to get them reworked or get new ones. just woundering if the carb cleaner/ break cleaner wold work. never did think of useing engine cleaner though
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1974 chevy Cheyenne C10 "The Mutt":4x4 convertion, NP208, 700-R4, stock 350, edelbrock Torker intake, edelbrock 600 CFM carb, duels

2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT: 3.8L supercharged, 9.2:1 comprestion, ZZP XP cam, home made intake, 2 1/2" exhuast, 10psi of boost
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:13 PM   #4
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Re: well ewww

I'm thinking if there is that much goo in the heads, the lifter valley has plenty of crud in it too. I'll bet the bearings don't look to good either at this point. If you are just looking to bandaid it, change the seals and leave the goo alone, it isn't hurting anything setting there, but if you start messing with it, that may cause more harm than good. Sounds like a full rebuild may be needed soon anyway.
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:16 PM   #5
88 Dippy
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Re: well ewww

Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Machine View Post
I'm thinking if there is that much goo in the heads, the lifter valley has plenty of crud in it too. I'll bet the bearings don't look to good either at this point. If you are just looking to bandaid it, change the seals and leave the goo alone, it isn't hurting anything setting there, but if you start messing with it, that may cause more harm than good. Sounds like a full rebuild may be needed soon anyway.
eh if i need a rebuild a junk yard engine will go in. or the truck will sit for a long time with no engine lol

any way the resone i ask is the drain back holes are clogged so the oil is pooling in the heads. and the vally is not gunked uplike the heads are lookes varry clean in there (re-did the intake gasket PO used house hold clear cuak to seal it)
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1974 chevy Cheyenne C10 "The Mutt":4x4 convertion, NP208, 700-R4, stock 350, edelbrock Torker intake, edelbrock 600 CFM carb, duels

2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT: 3.8L supercharged, 9.2:1 comprestion, ZZP XP cam, home made intake, 2 1/2" exhuast, 10psi of boost

Last edited by 88 Dippy; 04-02-2009 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:49 PM   #6
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Re: well ewww

If the drain holes are plugged, thats not so good ! Once you get the rockers and pushrods out of the way, brake cleaner or maybe some carb cleaner should disolve the crud, I don't think any service manaul would recommend this but sometimes you have to do what you have to do. Get it cleaned up and run some good diesel oil like Rotella, and change oil and filter every 2000 until it get cleaned out.
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Last edited by Green Machine; 04-02-2009 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:52 PM   #7
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Re: well ewww

Quote:
Originally Posted by Green Machine View Post
If the drain holes are plugged, thats not so good ! Once you get the rockers and pushrods out of the way, brake cleaner or maybe some carb cleaner should disolve the crud, I don't think any service manaul would recommend this but sometimes you have to do what you have to do. Get it cleaned up and run some good diesel oil like Rotella, and change oil and filter every 2000 until it get cleaned out.
will do
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2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT: 3.8L supercharged, 9.2:1 comprestion, ZZP XP cam, home made intake, 2 1/2" exhuast, 10psi of boost
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Old 04-04-2009, 09:14 PM   #8
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Re: well ewww

well i cleand it up was not as bad as originaly thought the heads are in grat shape looks like the guids have been machind and they have beehive valve springs the heads ARE NOT double humps i still can notread the casting to well on the driver but the pass. looks more readable i will see if i can make it out. i think the motor just sat for a long time before being used all the gaskets are hard and dried out that i have found i also do not have a VIN on the front of the block the pad is smooth so that rases a few ???


i will be starting to replace the valve seals tomarrow the old ones are not on the motor they got dry and fell off i found them foating in the top of the heads. but the engine has almost no leak down in all cyls and 185-190 PSI of cranking compretion onn all cyls so i think i can save this engine
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1974 chevy Cheyenne C10 "The Mutt":4x4 convertion, NP208, 700-R4, stock 350, edelbrock Torker intake, edelbrock 600 CFM carb, duels

2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT: 3.8L supercharged, 9.2:1 comprestion, ZZP XP cam, home made intake, 2 1/2" exhuast, 10psi of boost
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