body lift

[k-20]

i need a bit more clearance between tyre and guard on my 79'k20,and im thinking about a 2'' body lift.is this a good idea,or should i get higher springs?any good or bad thoughts would be great,thanks.
the springs are approx 4"

[special-K]

Eeeww,not a body lift.I guess you know my opinion,now.Do you have 4" springs now,or you need about 4"?Are you saying you need about 6"total?It`s a shame to have to replace lift springs for 2",but to me that`s the name of the game.You can sell the 4"ers.You can get a 2" or 4" shackle-flip from www.offroaddesign.com for the rear and use what you have with it.Body lifts are "rigid-mount" as compared to the original design of "cushion-mount".That and the fact that you`re doing nothing to improve the suspension w/body lifts are my peeves.

[LONGHAIR]

I have no problem with body lifts at all. You actually gain some tire clearance space with-out raising the center of gravity as much as the same amount of suspension lift. You save the driveline angle/length problems that start around the 6" lift range..........plus the higher springs get stiffer as they get higher. You have to remain reasonable with body lifting as far as height goes. 3" is max for safety and stability............I have seen people do more, but it is definitely not safe. The cab gets "soft" as the leverage against the mounts increases. On an older truck, it may be a good idea to replace the worn rubber mounts with urethane.

[2wdBlazer]

I have a 3 inch body lift and no ill effects. I would get a nice u-joint on the steering shaft to prevent binding (which I had). I run a Borgeson u-joint with a built in vibration dampner since I have pretty big tires.

[Prerunner1982]

OR you could just hack your fenders. get all the clearance you need.

[k-20]

Originally Posted by special-K

Eeeww,not a body lift.I guess you know my opinion,now.Do you have 4" springs now,or you need about 4"?Are you saying you need about 6"total?It`s a shame to have to replace lift springs for 2",but to me that`s the name of the game.You can sell the 4"ers.You can get a 2" or 4" shackle-flip from www.offroaddesign.com for the rear and use what you have with it.Body lifts are "rigid-mount" as compared to the original design of "cushion-mount".That and the fact that you`re doing nothing to improve the suspension w/body lifts are my peeves.

the springs now are approx 4"(standard springs re set)but i want to run 35"s-36"s(tyres now are only about 30"s?)they would fit as they are butbecause i cart a bit of fire wood from time to time the rear tyres would rub the guards!

[special-K]

It`s only my opinion on the body-lifts.I just don`t use them.But,better because of center of gravity,lift springs stiffer?Exactly,The higher point of the frame is offset by the tighter suspension and wider track.The trucks I`ve operated this way over the years are no less stable than stock,they handle like a go cart.Although the frame is higher than w/body-lift,it`s still at the lower end of the overall equation.What matters most is what`s at the upper portion of the equation,which is the same in both cases.But with soft stock springs,body-roll is greater.And,that`s the other part of the equation,verticle center.
A 4" lift should be adequate for 35" tires with no wider than 8" wheels.The only issue is up front with 10" wheels when turning & twisting at the same time.Your suspension will not allow enough stuff or droop to have the rear tires rub.I had 9.75x16.5 wheels,12.50/35 BFG All Terrains,and 4" lift on my`84 with no issues.The rear had 2" blocks and shop-built add-a-leafs.The truck got loaded,bed,boxes,and rack.Sometimes a trailer.Never rubbed:

I also have 10x16 wheels,315/75 Goodyear MTRs,and 4" EZ-Ride lift on my`91 Suburban.It is loaded with tools (only 2 seats) and tows a trailer.Only the front rubs when twisting/turning.Both vehicles are 6.2 diesel(heavy)equipped:

[LONGHAIR]

Although the frame is higher than w/body-lift,it`s still at the lower end of the overall equation.What matters most is what`s at the upper portion of the equation,which is the same in both cases.But with soft stock springs,body-roll is greater.

Lower part of the overall equation? .... you can gain 3" of tire clearance leaving the frame and engine trans/transfer case at the original height . Yes the total height of the truck is the same but not all of the weight went with it.
I never said a thing about stock springs..........the original post was about adding to an existing 4" suspension lift. In my opinion, it is not economically feasible to spend more money on springs again (removing 4" lift springs to replace them with 6") plus you need to address the rear springs at this point. At only 4" of lift, blocks are ok in the rear. To go higher, you need rear springs too (adding the the $$$ factor) or at least add-a-leafs and keep the blocks. All of this is going to require longer shocks too and as I mentioned before, you start getting into driveline length and angle issues too.
Unless you really need the center clearance on the undercarriage for more extreme trail riding/rock crawling and it is on a LWB truck there is nothing wrong with using a bodylift.

[special-K]

Yeah,lower part of equation.The only thing below the frame is suspension,axles,and tires/wheels.The body is every bit as heavy as the bare frame and with it higher off the frame,even though the same overall height,it is extended off the frame which introduces increased leverage off the center.This contributes to offset the higher frame location w/suspension lift to all but wipe-out any higher center of gravity issues in comparison.I just don`t think the difference in center of gravity is significant.With more suspension travel you have the heavy tire/wheel/axle-end staying on the ground more in a side roll dynamic.Once the tire has lifted,goodbye to the lower portion of your center of gravity.
It`s all opinion.I like to do it right,that always seems to cost more.I don`t like the frame hangin`down or looking through the truck between the body and frame.I like bumpers that line-up w/o weak relocation brackets,a fan shroud that completely encircles the fan,and everything else were it belongs.I see lifting as a suspension thing.Just modify that is how I go about it.You get better center clearance and more suspension articulation.I wouldn`t want to haul heavy loads like firewood in a bed that is extended off the frame or creep through the wood w/o a shroud.I cut the bottom out on the only vehicle I`ve had w/body-lift.I think body-lifts are harder on the body,too.If I wanted lower center of gravity,I`d clearance the body before I`d stick blocks between the body and frame.That`s what I`d recommend.

[Hoods69BadBowTie]

I don't really have anything against body lifts. I don't reccommend over 3" body lifts though.
-Later

[k-20]

all good points,i didnt think about fan shroud to fan clearance!decisions,decisions!!
i might just chuck a set of 33"s on for a while?

[LONGHAIR]

The body is every bit as heavy as the bare frame and with it higher off the frame,even though the same overall height,it is extended off the frame which introduces increased leverage off the center.

More than just the "bare frame" stays down with the body lift..........the entire engine/trans/transfer does too. Either way I really don't think that a mere 3" is going to effect things that much.

I have nothing against suspension lifting either..........but if I already had 4" of suspension lift and was looking to go just a few inches more..........bodylift all the way.

I really don't buy the "articulation" arguement though. Suspension travel is the determining factor there, not ride height.

[k-20]

i bolted on a couple of 33"s on 15x8s,on lock they run very close to the front of the guard.here's some pics!

[vtblazer]

Originally Posted by k-20

i bolted on a couple of 33"s on 15x8s,on lock they run very close to the front of the guard.here's some pics!

Doesn't look like you really have a 4" lift as it sits right now...

Did you install it or did the p/o 'tell' you it had a 4" lift?

[k-20]

the guys at the spring works re-set my standard springs to 4" above standard,maybe they was telling me b/s?

[Prerunner1982]

I dont know, the truck is definately lifted. and that tire clearance is just a bit less than I have. I can fit more than 1 finger but less than 2.. at the closest contact points. I realize my truck is 2wd but here is tire clearance with 32"s..





here is a pic of my truck with 31"s

[vtblazer]

Just going by the pics special-K posted of his burb with a 4" lift and 317's that are larger than a 33" tire and he's still got more clearance.

I used to run 35's on my 'stock' 78 K20 4wd when it was on the road with almost that much fender clearance.

33's would fit a stock 4x4 truck about that way.

[Igotachevyor2]

im wondering if you really have 4 extra in here is my blazer with stock springs and 3 in body lift and 35s

[k-20]

ive taken a couple of measurements,from the under side of the guard to the centre of the hub.
-front=25 3/4"
rear=24 1/2"
could some one do the same to their truck for me to compare?thanks