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Old 06-07-2007, 06:57 PM   #1
chevyboy55
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Door Weatherstriping Question

My son & I put new door weatherstriping in his 72 & they do not close very well(as was expected) how long has yours taken to compress & any tricks to get it to do so(other than time?)
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:16 PM   #2
gcburdic
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Re: Door Weatherstriping Question

ttt
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Old 04-29-2008, 08:31 PM   #3
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Re: Door Weatherstriping Question

Been waiting on mine to "self-adjust" for over a year now, and they are pinch-on ones from the junk yard.
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:46 PM   #4
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Re: Door Weatherstriping Question

I did some long time ago. Memory is fuzzy but, here in Texas during the summer it doesn't take very long. If I remember correctly just a few weeks.

I did the hood to cowl seal last month and it was pretty tight for the first week or so. It was lifting the back of the hood up. But a few days of warm weather and driving the truck, made it settle down. It fits pretty good now.

I'm thinking of doing the door seals on the GMC in the very near future. I already have them but just haven't got around to installing them.

One thing I always do when I install rubber stuff is to use ArmorAll on them. Don't know if this helps in softening up the rubber, but, I'm a firm believer in that stuff. Kept a lot of my vehicle dash pads and other plastic/rubber parts from cracking and drying up.
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Old 04-29-2008, 11:16 PM   #5
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Re: Door Weatherstriping Question

I got another question....I am ready to install the door seals, but with a test fit they are too long....how much of a gap do I leave or should I seam them together??...I've seen somewhere to cut a 45 degree angle at each end when seaming them together...is that for air release?? Where should the seam be?? under the sill plate, back of the door, front of door?? (Obviously, I really don't know what the hey I'm talking about, but as you can see I need HELP!!!!)

Thanks
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Old 04-30-2008, 02:17 AM   #6
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Re: Door Weatherstriping Question

I put my seams under the sill plate they were only about 2 or 3 inches too long.
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Old 04-30-2008, 01:56 PM   #7
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Re: Door Weatherstriping Question

gcburdic- I believe the factory location for the air release was on the front of the door between the hinges. You can use an awl to pierce holes every 4" in the rubber to help the door close easier and not be seen. The 45° cut is at the top front corner of the door frame. I highly recommend using the S-10 rubber instead of the factory style.
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:29 PM   #8
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Re: Door Weatherstriping Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by 70c10 View Post
gcburdic- I believe the factory location for the air release was on the front of the door between the hinges. You can use an awl to pierce holes every 4" in the rubber to help the door close easier and not be seen. The 45° cut is at the top front corner of the door frame. I highly recommend using the S-10 rubber instead of the factory style.
Hey 70c10,

I just remembered I saw the air release location in the factory assembly manual too....thanks....

that's a great idea about using the awl to pierce holes....I'll definitely do that...

I appreciate your input about the S10 rubbers, but I guess I'll use what I got right now, but if I change my mind....what year S10 rubbers should I use??

Thanks again

PS....Sammy...I think I'll put mine under the sill plate too.....thanks
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:44 PM   #9
70c10
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Re: Door Weatherstriping Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by gcburdic View Post
Hey 70c10,

I just remembered I saw the air release location in the factory assembly manual too....thanks....

that's a great idea about using the awl to pierce holes....I'll definitely do that...

I appreciate your input about the S10 rubbers, but I guess I'll use what I got right now, but if I change my mind....what year S10 rubbers should I use??

Thanks again

PS....Sammy...I think I'll put mine under the sill plate too.....thanks
Look on page 2 of this thread for some pics! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ther+stripping
You won't need a seam with the air gap.
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1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames
Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked)
355/350 Turbo w/shift kit
10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall
Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1
Performer RPM Air-Gap
12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi
Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads

Last edited by 70c10; 04-30-2008 at 07:45 PM.
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