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Old 05-21-2002, 07:44 PM   #1
Patrick Sullivan
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Post Er, what is this on my rear axle?

One side's attached to a perch on the axle and the other side is attached to the frame. The picture is pretty bad, but it's hard to get up in there with the spare tire back in.

What the heck is this? Is it stock?

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1972 Chevy Cheyenne C-20
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Old 05-21-2002, 07:47 PM   #2
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First let me congratualte you on a big fat healthy juicy HO72 rear end, hehe. That bar is called a panhard bar i believe, it makes the rear more stable in turning situations when loaded and whatnot i think. If i'm wrong then someone on here knows and will say it and what it's for. Good luck.
Greg

------------------
69 Custom 20, 396BB,Longbed fleetside.
New Oak Bed With SS strips.

Edelbrock performer RPM-O, Edelbrock 750Carb, Headers, HEI, 2 40" glasspacks.
Stereo: Classic-style tape deck/radio, 2 6x9 Cerwin Vega's in doors, 2 10" Neo subs under seats, 1 900 Watt amp.

SN= Ares220 on AIM.

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Old 05-21-2002, 07:49 PM   #3
ebfabman
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Track bar or pan hard bar. All coil spring trucks have them. It keep the rear end "in line" with the front wheels(limits lateral movement of the rear suspension)
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Old 05-21-2002, 07:54 PM   #4
Patrick Sullivan
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Ah, ok. I suppose it's nice not to have your axle drifting back and forth under you.. Thanks all.

And yea, it's one heck of a rear end. Too bad I can't get it to stop leaking out the bottom..

[This message has been edited by Patrick Sullivan (edited May 21, 2002).]
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Old 05-21-2002, 08:32 PM   #5
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I posted a topic on the drivetrain board about this, but the rearend I bought yesterday looks a helluva lot like the one in the picture there. The only difference is mine might has the 10 bolts for the rear cover evenly spaced and there is a relief at the top and bottom for the ring gear to fit. Also the front and back are held on with studs that look like little wheel studs, 3/8" fine thread (9/16 wrench) Does anyone know where the ID numbers are on these rears? Also, it is a bit narrower overall than my 12-bolt. Any help identifying this rearend would be most helpful.
Thanks,
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Old 05-21-2002, 10:19 PM   #6
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When i bought my GMC, the panhard bar was missing. That thins would sway and drift all over the road. When I got over 40, I was scared I was gonna lose control. Also made my tires rub like crazy too.
It doesn't so much keep your rear axle from moving, as much as keeps the rear of the truck centered over the rear axle.

------------------
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I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
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Old 05-21-2002, 10:29 PM   #7
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lol, that was great, hehehe sorry got a real kick out of that one

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Jessica: 1967 2wd SWB (not yet decided on furture)
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Old 05-21-2002, 10:37 PM   #8
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Other than a tire, that bar was the very first thing bought for it. Best 5 bucks I spent on it to date.

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I've been dubbed the Longhorn Freak/Fanatic/Expert, I just hope I can live up to it.
FINALLY got the HORNIAC...a '70 one ton Longhorn with a Pontiac 350/350 and lots of 'personality'. Check out The Longhorn Webite.
E-mail longhornmail@yahoo.com
My name is Andy...not Randy...I'm in Ohio...Not Illinois...close enough?
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Old 05-21-2002, 10:53 PM   #9
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The track bar also defines the rear roll center, where the track bar intersects the ring gear.
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Old 05-21-2002, 11:38 PM   #10
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The manual refers to it as a "tie rod" but no one will know what your talking about if you call it by that name. They will roll their eyes and explain to you that the tie rods are on the front suspension...blah...blah. Its fun to provoke parts guys when searching for bushings by calling it that. Has anyone ever found a replacement bushings for a panhard bar?

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Old 05-22-2002, 06:08 AM   #11
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I believe Classic Performance has them. Haven't ordered them so I don't know for sure.
http://www.classicperform.com/6092ch...#rear-bushings
http://www.classicperform.com/produc...ngs-Rubber.htm



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Old 05-22-2002, 06:34 AM   #12
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Spoof, I got a set of Energy Suspension bushings for my track bar at the local parts store for under $10. If you want the factory rubber set they are available also.
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Old 05-22-2002, 11:46 AM   #13
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Big69C20,sounds like you are familiar with
this rearend.Is HO72 a code for this rear.I
know hardly anything about them.They seem
pretty stout looking though.I have one under
my 71 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup.Gearing is either
4:11 or 4:56 I believe.I know that it is
popular to put a big Chevy 14 bolt in when
these go south.Must be parts availability or
something.Mine seems to hold up well.Do you
have any info? Thanks.
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Old 05-22-2002, 11:58 AM   #14
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Yeah either 4.10, 4.57(i think) and 3.90 are the only gears i've ever been able to find for these. There are some parts available for these thigns but not very many. the 14 bolt swap is common because of availability i think yes. I found 3.90 gears (in search of lower rpms) but new the set was like 260 and i have 4.10 now so not much of a gain for the money. They dont die if you keep em lubed. I heard about some fiberglass hemi that kept ruining any rear end it had, they swapped that 10bolt in there and been running it ever since. The reading was it broke BUILT dana 60s and about anything else out there cuz the car was so light and had so much power transfer to the rear. It'd snap a rear end after one run supposedly. They said since they put that ho72 in it's been running 6 years with no problems at tons of drag events. Could all be a bunch of hooey but hey makes a good story...
ok i'm done rambling now...

------------------
69 Custom 20, 396BB,Longbed fleetside.
New Oak Bed With SS strips.

Edelbrock performer RPM-O, Edelbrock 750Carb, Headers, HEI, 2 40" glasspacks.
Stereo: Classic-style tape deck/radio, 2 6x9 Cerwin Vega's in doors, 2 10" Neo subs under seats, 1 900 Watt amp.

SN= Ares220 on AIM.

Located in Beautiful Southern Cali or Michigan when i'm at school.


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Sold the 69 C20. It's off to a better home with more love!
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Old 05-22-2002, 05:00 PM   #15
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One of the reasons the HO72 leaks is because the bolt holes go right through the housing. This is on both sides..the cover and the third member.(axles too). Drain the oil..pull all the bolts and put gasket sealer on all of them (the threads). The lower bolts will leak more because they are submerged all the time.
When I swapped to the 14 bolt this is one of the improvements they made..none of the bolts see oil.(among other things).

------------------
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Old 05-22-2002, 05:05 PM   #16
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I have the same set-up but my axle is a Dana 60. I think it came out of a 71 3/4
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Old 05-22-2002, 06:00 PM   #17
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I have two of those bad-boy rear-end differentials. One under my daily driver and one under my parts truck. Both were originally set up with 4.10 gears. They carry spiders (unless the original owner opted for an eaton posi unit or one of the earlier lockers).

This was my first major problem with my C20 after I bought it. I noticed that a dull roaring noise would happen around 50 mph (2500-3000 rpm). It would only make noise if my foot was on the gas petal. At first it was just anoying, but over time it got so bad that the vibration could be felt through the steering wheel. At the time I was a dumb-a$$, and should have pulled the pan, but I was a whimp. I wouldn't have hesitated now...

Anyway, I took it to Randy's Ring & Pinion in Everett, WA. because I heard a lot of good things about them. Turns out 1 of the 4 spiders had blown its bearing, heated up and welded itself to the carrier cross-pin. The remaining 3 busted the teeth off of it and kept turning. Over time the carrier bearings ate themselves up, and that's the roaring noise. Ironically, the 4.10 gear set was flawless!

I had it completely rebuilt with new carrier bearings, 3.90s and a detroit locker. Now it kicks serious a$$, but it cost me a bundle but oh well. I didn't want to go searching for a new axle, driveline, etc. etc....

These are known as 10 bolt GM Corporate differential. They exist with 8 and 10 lug axles. The carriers were made by eaton corp, and at the time were the best around. They just don't wear very good over 35 years. HO52 (5200lb) axles were supposed to be the only coil sprung axle of this type for 3/4 ton trucks, and HO72 (7200lb) axles were supposedly leaf sprung only and under 1 tons. I don't believe this because the codes on my C20 indicate an HO72, it's coil sprung like yours, and the GVW of the truck is 7500lbs!

Anyway, here are the locations of the codes if you want to do your own homework:



------------------
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Old 05-22-2002, 11:06 PM   #18
SoCal71K20
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Lot's of good info here.I learned some things
about these rearends that I did not know. I"ll keep running my leaf sprung rearend till
it won't run no more.I recently had fun locating rear drums and shoes to rebuild the
brakes on my 8 lugger.Pulled full floater
axles and went at it.
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Old 05-23-2002, 07:57 AM   #19
Dean
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The drag car that is using the Eaton rearend is the "Hemi Under Glass" car. I have talked to him several times about it. This is the wheelstander car. He uses the open rearends because he steers with the back brakes.
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Old 05-23-2002, 08:06 AM   #20
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Cool

I think that's common with wheelstanders. Both rear brakes work independently to keep the car straight while to front wheels are off the ground. Those things are cool!
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Old 05-23-2002, 06:22 PM   #21
Patrick Sullivan
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Is there a site with decoding information for these axles? I got the numbers off of it, but I don't have a clue what they mean..

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Rockaway Beach, Oregon
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So, fill to me the parting glass
And drink a health whate'er befalls...
Then gently rise and softly call
Goodnight and joy be to you all!
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Old 05-23-2002, 07:48 PM   #22
Vince M
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I've got to differ with New69Owner. The rear end pictured is not refered to as a 10 bolt Corporate. There is a completely different axle that is a ten bolt and was used as a front axle on some of the earlier year trucks. Much much smaller and I think it was only used on half tons. I've found that refering to it as a Eaton or the HO72 is the best bet and eliminates confusion.
I had the same problem with my Eaton as New69 with my spiders. I found the inside splines worn and was getting the big "clunk" when put into gear. My 4.10 gears were in excellent shape just couldn't find spiders or axles. I did find some used ones but when I found a used 14 bolt locally for cheap..I jumped on it. Completely dismantled the 14 bolt and rebuilt it for a lot less than the parts of an Eaton. Got the larger 13" drums in the rear and now have a 3.73 rear with the option of lower gears if I want.

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