Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Luvlegs · 01-05-2021, 04:51 PM

Hate to pull fender if I can do this in place - tried to hammer/dolly as it sits - no go/swing room/brace in the way... Cut on crease, straighten, weld back in? I have rust spot there to correct either way. Easy enough to do in place or (cough) pull fender?

RPBurris · 01-05-2021, 06:28 PM

I would bet a stud gun puller would get you close enough to work it out? I have seen attachments where you can use a mig welder to attach the studs too. Because who has a stud gun just laying around...

Davidf · 01-05-2021, 07:24 PM

If you're dealing with rust, best to pull the fender so you can properly determine extent of rust and fix it properly with a patch panel. The time spent pulling the fender will be worth the effort.

Luvlegs · 01-06-2021, 08:37 AM

I'm sure you're right about pulling it - I know there isn't much if any other rust but I'm sure I'll find some. Ha - aaaaagh... She looks pretty to me so I'm finding it hard to get myself disassembling.

**old51sedan** · 01-06-2021, 09:53 AM

You could pull just remove the inner fender and try to work it from there or you could contact a paintless dent repair guy to look at it. My brother has been doing this for the last 30 years and it's surprising as to some of the things that he has fixed.

**HO455** · 01-06-2021, 04:10 PM

The painless dent fix would be my take. With the possibility of having the paint lift. The cold bond they use to attach studs does a great job but if the paint isn't adequately adhered to the steel (or if there is any filler under the paint.) it will pull the paint off.
Removing the fender opens the can of worms.

54blackhornet · 01-06-2021, 05:09 PM

Just leave it alone, adds character...

Luvlegs · 01-07-2021, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 54blackhornet

Just leave it alone, adds character...

I'M loaded with that - but I can fix the truck. Ha! Guess I'll start with getting the wipers off... Wish me luck.

notsolo · 01-07-2021, 08:53 AM

Other option, blocks of wood shims and clamps. remove large inner fender bolt, 4 inner fender bolts up from the damage, see if you can get under and behind enough to get a clamp or 2 on it. Foam pad and tape to protect the paint...find decent clamps 1st...deep throat clamp 3" to 4" or better. Good luck with whatever you decide.

Luvlegs · 01-07-2021, 10:11 AM

I knew it... Inner fender out, rust at core support - yyyyeeeeaaaaa.... Ha. Time to go to "work" work.

72bowtiestepper · 01-07-2021, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davidf

If you're dealing with rust, best to pull the fender so you can properly determine extent of rust and fix it properly with a patch panel. The time spent pulling the fender will be worth the effort.

Agree with that...do it right the first time & you will be happy with the result.

Peanut74 · 01-07-2021, 08:44 PM

My vote is pull the fender. When you do tape any fender shims together and write which bolt they go to. That should help you during reassembly

Luvlegs · 01-07-2021, 11:04 PM

Will do! Probably a half day of work tomorrow and I'll get started.

Luvlegs · 01-08-2021, 05:22 PM

Wipers are off! The hood closes (and opens) beautifully... But the gap is atrocious...

RustyPile · 01-08-2021, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luvlegs

Wipers are off! The hood closes (and opens) beautifully... But the gap is atrocious...

It's a design flaw in the hood hinges... If you try to close that gap, the hood will contact the cowl panel as swings open and closed..

Luvlegs · 01-09-2021, 09:35 AM

Yup - it's about 3/8 on pass side but almost 3/4 on drivers. The front lines up nice though. Nothing I'm worried about this century. Ha. Just might do some more disassembling today...

Luvlegs · 01-09-2021, 03:42 PM

14 years, the screen did it's job. Just dust got in.

Luvlegs · 01-09-2021, 05:56 PM

Not as bad as I'd thought... Might get new core support...and only the backside of the cup is bad. I can weld flat stuff. And the dent area of course!

01-05-2021, 04:51 PM	#1
Luvlegs Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia Posts: 1,537	Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... Hate to pull fender if I can do this in place - tried to hammer/dolly as it sits - no go/swing room/brace in the way... Cut on crease, straighten, weld back in? I have rust spot there to correct either way. Easy enough to do in place or (cough) pull fender? Attached Images __________________ "A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew!

01-05-2021, 06:28 PM	#2
RPBurris Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Dyer, Indiana Posts: 395	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... I would bet a stud gun puller would get you close enough to work it out? I have seen attachments where you can use a mig welder to attach the studs too. Because who has a stud gun just laying around... __________________ 1969 Chevy K20 Longbed

01-05-2021, 07:24 PM	#3
Davidf Registered User Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Austin Posts: 749	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... If you're dealing with rust, best to pull the fender so you can properly determine extent of rust and fix it properly with a patch panel. The time spent pulling the fender will be worth the effort. Last edited by Davidf; 01-05-2021 at 07:24 PM. Reason: grammar

01-06-2021, 08:37 AM	#4
Luvlegs Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia Posts: 1,537	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... I'm sure you're right about pulling it - I know there isn't much if any other rust but I'm sure I'll find some. Ha - aaaaagh... She looks pretty to me so I'm finding it hard to get myself disassembling. Attached Images __________________ "A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew!

01-06-2021, 09:53 AM	#5
old51sedan Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Williamston, Mi Posts: 879	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... You could pull just remove the inner fender and try to work it from there or you could contact a paintless dent repair guy to look at it. My brother has been doing this for the last 30 years and it's surprising as to some of the things that he has fixed.

01-06-2021, 04:10 PM	#6
HO455 Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Portland Oregon Posts: 10,894	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... The painless dent fix would be my take. With the possibility of having the paint lift. The cold bond they use to attach studs does a great job but if the paint isn't adequately adhered to the steel (or if there is any filler under the paint.) it will pull the paint off. Removing the fender opens the can of worms. __________________ Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377

01-06-2021, 05:09 PM	#7
54blackhornet Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Eastern Oregon Posts: 2,275	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... Just leave it alone, adds character... __________________ 71 C-20 07 Magnum RT AWD

01-07-2021, 08:53 AM	#9
notsolo Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Md Posts: 2,454	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... Other option, blocks of wood shims and clamps. remove large inner fender bolt, 4 inner fender bolts up from the damage, see if you can get under and behind enough to get a clamp or 2 on it. Foam pad and tape to protect the paint...find decent clamps 1st...deep throat clamp 3" to 4" or better. Good luck with whatever you decide. __________________ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=635605

01-07-2021, 10:11 AM	#10
Luvlegs Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia Posts: 1,537	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... I knew it... Inner fender out, rust at core support - yyyyeeeeaaaaa.... Ha. Time to go to "work" work. __________________ "A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew!

01-07-2021, 08:44 PM	#12
Peanut74 Registered User Join Date: May 2018 Location: Prattville, AL Posts: 590	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... My vote is pull the fender. When you do tape any fender shims together and write which bolt they go to. That should help you during reassembly __________________ -------------------------------------------------------- 1967 C10 "Snowball" (Currently in a million pieces down from a bazillion) 1989 Toyota DLX pickup "The Hulk" 2012 Jeep JKU "Crush" 1976 Chevy short bed with a 327 and 3 on the tree (Sold it to buy the Blazer) 1971 Chevy Blazer (Sold it)

01-07-2021, 11:04 PM	#13
Luvlegs Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia Posts: 1,537	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... Will do! Probably a half day of work tomorrow and I'll get started. __________________ "A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew!

01-08-2021, 05:22 PM	#14
Luvlegs Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia Posts: 1,537	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... Wipers are off! The hood closes (and opens) beautifully... But the gap is atrocious... Attached Images __________________ "A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew!

01-09-2021, 09:35 AM	#16
Luvlegs Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia Posts: 1,537	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... Yup - it's about 3/8 on pass side but almost 3/4 on drivers. The front lines up nice though. Nothing I'm worried about this century. Ha. Just might do some more disassembling today... Attached Images __________________ "A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew!

01-09-2021, 03:42 PM	#17
Luvlegs Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia Posts: 1,537	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... 14 years, the screen did it's job. Just dust got in. Attached Images __________________ "A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew!

01-09-2021, 05:56 PM	#18
Luvlegs Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Smith Mountain Lake Virginia Posts: 1,537	Re: Cut/beat/weld back in? Or... Not as bad as I'd thought... Might get new core support...and only the backside of the cup is bad. I can weld flat stuff. And the dent area of course! Attached Images __________________ "A cat will almost always blink when hit between the eyes with a ball peen hammer" (you don't always have to state the obvious) Wear your PPE! You can eat with false teeth but you can't see with a false eye. 1959 Studebaker Silverhawk 350/400 1972 C10 L6 3OTT 2005 F350 - Built - whew!



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