07-31-2021, 12:29 PM | #1 |
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Dash Removal
Ok, I am trying to repair rust damage inside the cab where the firewall and cowl intake are. I know that to do this right, I need to remove the dash. I am not looking forward to cutting through all of the spot welds along the lower front windshield channel...but...
Being the innovative guy I am, and not wanting to bung-up thar lower windshield channel, would it be just as effective to cut the dash away with a jig saw or sawz-all and then reweld it along that seam? See pics below. |
07-31-2021, 12:31 PM | #2 |
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Re: Dash Removal
The line drawn with a marker is where I would cut.
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07-31-2021, 12:47 PM | #3 |
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Re: Dash Removal
You would get a lot of warpage unless you are real seasoned at welding very thin metal.
When my son built his truck we removed the non A/C dash and replaced with an A/C dash by drilling/grinding all the spot welds from his and the donor cab. Not really that big of a project just time consuming. I also helped a buddy replace a bad dash on a 55 Chevy PU, also not that difficult. |
07-31-2021, 01:07 PM | #4 | |
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Re: Dash Removal
Quote:
I welded in a new outer floor panel the length of the cab (see photo - the area between the scale/ruler and the rocker panel without warpage). Just curious if anyone else has done it the way I am suggesting. |
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07-31-2021, 02:05 PM | #5 |
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Re: Dash Removal
Don't do it ! trying to cut the ends of the dash will be tough without cutting into the A pilar , Drill the spot welds it's really a lot less work than it seems and if you look there is a centering mark on the flange and dash . I had mine out in less than 30 minutes , use a 1/8" drill and center drill the spot welds and then use a spot weld cutter and you only cut thru the one thickness of metal when it's time to reweld it line up the center mark use a couple flange vise grips and loosely install the 3 bolts on each side ,start welding from the center out and clean up welds with a cut off wheel , once done working side to side and grinding smooth use short hair glass filler to smooth it all out then epoxy prime . While your at it consider welding up the windshield seams and use the same filling and finishing process .
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1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop Last edited by Grumpy old man; 07-31-2021 at 02:15 PM. |
07-31-2021, 02:25 PM | #6 |
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Re: Dash Removal
I agree to pull the dash.
Here is a couple of links for spotweld cutters. If you decide to go that way. These are the best I have used. I have a friend that can resharpen them for me thou. Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/12467679345...Cclp%3A2047675 Here is some budget friendly ones. Link:https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...ter-63657.html ,...
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07-31-2021, 02:45 PM | #7 |
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Re: Dash Removal
Here is a picture I just took it really is easier than it may look .
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1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop |
07-31-2021, 03:51 PM | #8 |
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Re: Dash Removal
Somewhat related. I recently removed the upper and lower cowl from a ‘67 cougar restoration I just completed.
155 spot welds and a little patience. Took time but was an easy job. The spot weld drill bits work fantastic. Get a few extras. Air chisel also nice but not necessary. Going back… I used the 3m glue. No warpage and more than strong enough. Mark
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07-31-2021, 03:58 PM | #9 | |
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Re: Dash Removal
Quote:
Good sugestion on the 3M Glue. I may use that one in some places .
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07-31-2021, 04:52 PM | #10 | |
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Re: Dash Removal
Quote:
Thanks...so I guess I am leaning towards cutting the spot welds now. I'll sleep on it and decide in the morning. |
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07-31-2021, 08:27 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Dash Removal
Quote:
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08-02-2021, 10:34 AM | #12 |
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Re: Dash Removal
Drill the spot welds, then use a 7 in one painters tool or a putty knife that has the metal thru the handle then work the welds. Found the putty knife trick works wonders and its it thin enough that it does not bend the flanges to much, if any.
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08-02-2021, 11:47 AM | #13 |
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Re: Dash Removal
I drilled all the spot welds on the outer cowl and removed it. It was a lot of work and I didn't have near as much to fix in there as I imagined.
Here's a shot of the whole cab in epoxy with the outer cowl removed: I also epoxied the outer cowl and then ground it down where I welded it all back together and then epoxied again, before seam sealer. Here's a couple shots of the main reason I removed it. |
08-02-2021, 02:06 PM | #14 |
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Re: Dash Removal
The Blair brand spot weld cutters stay sharp much longer than the harbor fart junk. I used the Blair 11094 ($26) spotweld cutter to drill out all the spotwelds on my bed and it is still very sharp. Blair has a more affordable version available now that might be worth a try PN: 13224. Tool works great. Like Grumpy suggests, a pilot hole in the center of the spot help keep the cutter centered.
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08-02-2021, 09:22 PM | #15 |
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Re: Dash Removal
Thanks all for your inputs, looks like I will be a spotweld drillin' fool...
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08-03-2021, 07:38 AM | #16 |
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Re: Dash Removal
I went in through the cowl to fix mine.
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08-03-2021, 10:12 AM | #17 |
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Re: Dash Removal
64K10Burb I like that going through the cowl technique, and only taking part of it off. Seems like it would be easier than taking off the dash. Most of your splice work would be covered by the outer cowl and you wouldn't be working upside down in the cab to do the repairs.
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08-03-2021, 06:31 PM | #18 | |
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Re: Dash Removal
Quote:
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08-03-2021, 07:25 PM | #19 |
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Re: Dash Removal
It provided easy access and I didn't have to stand on my head to work. I'm too old and fat for that
I had some issues on the firewall too, around the blower housing. It looked like the easiest way in for me. This is my first 67-72, so I am certainly not an expert dealing with these.
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