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Old 01-17-2013, 08:00 PM   #1
b.eddy's72
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Gooseneck hitch

Just bought a 67 3/4 ton Chevy so I could sell my 1ton Dodge flatbed. I still need to pull trailers ever so often and 2 of which are goosenecks. I was wondering if any of yall have installed a gooseneck hitch in your 67-72 and retained the wood bed. I know Im going to have to build a custom hitch and have the ability to do it but any help with how you did yours (without welding to the frame) would be helpful. I like pics............................
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:36 PM   #2
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

I am considering a gooseneck hitch for mine, too. I know they make bolt-in goose neck hitches for these trucks. I don't know how they work with the wood bed, though. Mine is a wood bed, too.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:52 PM   #3
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Saw one but I can't find the picture. It was a Longhorn with a hideaway ball mount that attached to a plate bolted to the frame under the bed. There was a custom weldment for the ball mount to bring it up to the bed level inside and the wood had been cut away to sit on a ledge much like the rear sill does on a stock bed. I will keep looking but that was years and a bricked HD ago.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:05 PM   #4
b.eddy's72
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Yeah I want it to be hideaway also...........I know Im not picky. I built one for my 96 years ago with a 12 inch (cause I had it) C-Channel that went between the bed and the frame. I welded the nut on the underside and drilled the ball in the press so I could use a rod to unscrew it when not in use. Only had to drill one hole in the bed about 3 inches in dia. The frames on these trucks flare unlike that truck so it puts a kink in my plans. The spring perch and bumpstop brackets are also in the way if I wanted to bolt it to the side of the frame like the newer one do.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:20 PM   #5
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Here is a C10 shortbed but it still gives a good idea on what is there for a coil truck.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:29 PM   #6
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

I've always used the REESE hitches on account you have both fifth wheel and goose ball. When I decide which truck to put the bed I will bolt it in the wood bed with the brackets bolted to the frame like I have always done.

I can't see the price of a hide away balls.

If someone will post a picture of the REESE hitch from their website please. I don't know how to.It's the 16,000lb. brackets.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:32 PM   #7
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

http://www.turnoverball.com/products...ooseneck-hitch

You can buy just the ball and make the rest. Mine is still in the works so no pics to help much.
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Old 01-18-2013, 07:53 AM   #8
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Yeah I've checked out B&W and can get just the center section with the ball for like $300. That would leave me constructing just how to attach it. I would like to stay away from drilling many holes in the frame if possible. I know I'm asking alot of myself but its just hard to drill a frame on a classic truck. I might get the rest of the rotted bed out today and start looking at it.
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Ya must have been movin cause I was haulin a*$ when I passed you
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:19 PM   #9
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Ok I got the previous owner trash out of the bed and was able to see what I am working with now. It appears that its going to be pretty easy. 8 inch C-channel, torch, grinder, drill, and 6 bolts. I will post pictures of the progress..............it will be a couple of weeks.
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66 GMC Short Step, 84 Front Suspension, many more mods to come
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Ya must have been movin cause I was haulin a*$ when I passed you
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:29 PM   #10
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

What is the rule of thumb for the placement of the ball ?

I heard once that it should be 1 inch in front of the centerline of the rear axle,,,,,,,,,,,?
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Old 01-19-2013, 01:50 AM   #11
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Quote:
Originally Posted by 72 K20 View Post
What is the rule of thumb for the placement of the ball ?

I heard once that it should be 1 inch in front of the centerline of the rear axle,,,,,,,,,,,?
Thats ideal. But never over 1'' BEHIND rear axle.That is REESE hitch instructions on the hitches I have put on.That is pretty much industry standard.
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Old 01-19-2013, 08:04 AM   #12
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Quote:
Originally Posted by SS Tim View Post
Here is a C10 shortbed but it still gives a good idea on what is there for a coil truck.
Hey now.....that truck looks awful familiar to me.......
its a long bed btw.
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Old 01-19-2013, 02:44 PM   #13
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Quote:
Originally Posted by WadmalawJoe View Post
Hey now.....that truck looks awful familiar to me.......
its a long bed btw.
Of course it is, I was testing my proof readers! :-)
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:05 PM   #14
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

I will be watching your progress. I have a k20 with a flatbed and a wood floor and i wanted to install a goosenech but i wasnt sure how to do it. Any pics you put up will really be appreciated!
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Old 03-17-2013, 11:22 AM   #15
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Any updates on this?
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Old 03-17-2013, 09:33 PM   #16
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

No I have been really busy and just got back tonight from a 300 mile camping trip with the fam. Im off the rest of the week and gonna get the bed rails cut out (wood floor is already rotted out). I looked at a removable ball center section but I think Im gonna pass on it because Im digging my idea at about $150 cheaper. I should just have one 3 inch hole in the center of the bed and the ball will screw into the plate so it can be removed. Ill post pictures as I get it going.
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66 GMC Short Step, 84 Front Suspension, many more mods to come
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Ya must have been movin cause I was haulin a*$ when I passed you
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:34 PM   #17
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Any updates?
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:54 PM   #18
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

I have extensively researched this as I will be installing one on my 67, and after speaking with B&W's engineer dept getting dimensions from them as I was measuring on the frame we came to the conclusion that a B&W hide a ball will not work on these trucks as the frame section where it mounts is too narrow and the center section can not be cut down without damaging the hide a ball hardware or integrity of the system, also voiding eliminating any chance of passing DOT inspection, and making the center section unsafe. I ended up going with a Diamond Hitch Part # DH1301 because you can cut the center section to fit the frame rails without damaging the integrity of the center. Also it is a quick change ball, and you can get just a flat plug to put in there when not in use so you dont have a empty hole in the bed.
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:57 PM   #19
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

http://www.adventurerv.net/blue-diam...FUNqMgodPzEAsg

Here are some pics at this website
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:26 PM   #20
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Here are a couple pics of mocking up the hitch today. 2.5" were cut off of each end of the center section. I was able to retain the original mounts and it fit perfectly in the center of the frame rails. I am going to make a plate that ties in the lower bracket off of the shock tower into the bottom plate of the center brackets I will also be adding on the outside of the frame an additional bracket to give additional support.
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:02 PM   #21
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

I had to mount a old top mount on a temp basis but I bought a flip down and had to do some mods on it to get it ready to mount. The po had welded the ball upright so with about an hour or grinding I have it folding again and looking good. I will be making the brackets and getting it ready over the next few weeks. I have been working alot. Top pic will be the 2 bottom are temp only.
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:38 PM   #22
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Quote:
Originally Posted by longbed67 View Post
I have extensively researched this as I will be installing one on my 67, and after speaking with B&W's engineer dept getting dimensions from them as I was measuring on the frame we came to the conclusion that a B&W hide a ball will not work on these trucks as the frame section where it mounts is too narrow and the center section can not be cut down without damaging the hide a ball hardware or integrity of the system, also voiding eliminating any chance of passing DOT inspection, and making the center section unsafe. I ended up going with a Diamond Hitch Part # DH1301 because you can cut the center section to fit the frame rails without damaging the integrity of the center. Also it is a quick change ball, and you can get just a flat plug to put in there when not in use so you dont have a empty hole in the bed.
Not understanding how removing the crossmember and replacing it with a bolt together hitch is any better than building a crossmember for a hide a ball type hitch? Also does your research cover the various frame section heights or only your C10?

But it does look like a nice setup.

"When you’re ready to tow, simply insert the ball into the hitch cylinder and rotate

(1). The Inverta ball’s ingenious spring-loaded locking mechanism secures the ball in place, ensuring it can’t be accidentally unlatched. This eliminates encountering the troublesome levers, locks, cables, mud and dirt in truck fender wells as is the case with some competing systems. Stowing the ball is just as convenient. Unlatch the Inverta ball by pushing the safety thumb lock to release and rotate to remove the ball. ( 2)Then invert the ball and place directly back into the socket below the truck bed. The ball self-stores– out of the way– and is ready for use the next time you need to tow.

Use your entire truck bed

An innovative, flush-with-the-floor hitch design enables you to remove and store the hitch ball. No bed rails, no oily mess, no clutter. This is because the Diamond Hitch installs completely under the bed of your truck. So when you’re not towing, every inch of your truck bed is available for cargo.

Installation is easy

The Diamond Hitch bolts directly to the truck frame, using existing bolts and holes when possible and requires only a four-inch hole in the truck bed for the ball cylinder. No welding, or lifting of the truck bed is required. So the Diamond Hitch reduces installation time and expenses. What’s more, the main hitch assembly is made of one-piece tubular steel, ensuring increased strength."
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Last edited by SS Tim; 04-15-2013 at 06:01 PM. Reason: higher word count
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:16 PM   #23
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

"Not understanding how removing the crossmember and replacing it with a bolt together hitch is any better than building a crossmember for a hide a ball type hitch? Also does your research cover the various frame section heights or only your C10?

But it does look like a nice setup."


Because if you build your own and do not get a specific DOT inspection and paperwork on the Hitch and can prove the wt ratings through testing on it, your insurance will not cover anything you pull or anyone elses property that is damaged if the trailer or cargo hits anything else making you personally liable. and if you ever get pulled over and inspected, you will not be able to pull away with that trailer, you will have to leave the trailer or have it towed or both.

The diamond system is technically a "Hide a Ball" All centers on the market today will not fit between the frame rail on these trucks properly. Earlier they spoke about B&W's setup which has the quick release and will not fit without cutting and with the mechanism and design on the B&W you cannot cut it without compromising its integrity. And the Flip a ball hardware. I measured for a LWB coilspring frame.

Oh yeah and thank you! I hope it turns out as nice as I have pictured in my head
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:02 PM   #24
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

Great thanks for expanding on that. Now does modifying the brakets or using it on a non-listed vehicle change the certification status? Finally I have to ask, what are you planning on hauling?
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:36 PM   #25
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Re: Gooseneck hitch

This has been helpful in answering some questions I had regarding a gooseneck hitch in our trucks, but all the photos I have been seeing are of coil spring trucks.

Does anyone have any photos, or information related to installing one of these hitches on a leaf spring truck? I would really like to install on on my Custom Camper, and from what I have seen about those trucks, it is essentially a single rear wheel one ton.

I need to check again, but I am pretty sure the frame rails on the one ton frame do not bow. If that is the case, would that remove the need to modify the mounts?
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