Help with Gauge Cluster Wiring Please

[Mapearso]

So, I removed the gauge cluster today. The PO had installed some aftermarket gauges. Specifically, the temp, oil pressure and volts

I want to go back to stock.

Can someone please tell me what I'll need to do here to go back to original? I am NOT installing a tach

Thanks

[ujsf01]

Not difficult at all. Hard to tell by the photos, but it looks like all the pins are still in the instrument cluster connector. If they are, all you need is a schematic, an ohm meter, and a little patience. You need to make sure all the wires on the connector are intact. You can do this with a schematic and an ohm meter to make sure you have no opens or shorts in any of the wires. If they are good, you need the temp sender, oil pressure sender, and a good gauge cluster to plug into it. As long as you have the right power and ground along with correct senders, it should function just fine. Just tear all that other junk out and put it in the "ebay" pile.

[VetteVet]

You'll have to pin the cluster plug correctly and run any missing wires to it then be sure to ground the cluster to the dash.

Here's a gauge cluster plug correctly wired.



If you are lucky you will still have the battery gauge wires and the fuses for them.

I'm guessing that you have a 67-72 truck.

The cluster plug has numbers on it for the wires. the black wire on the left is no. 1 then up the left side 2-3-4-5-6. Right side top is no. 7 down-8-9-10-11-12. 12 is the other black wire for the battery gauge.

[leddzepp]

Factory oil pressure gauge is mechanical, you'll need the proper hard line. Junkyard or Leon sells them new on the parts board. Factory ammeter is a piece of crap in my opinion, I'd buy one of tbone1964's volt gauges that looks factory.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Mapearso

So, I removed the gauge cluster today. The PO had installed some aftermarket gauges. Specifically, the temp, oil pressure and volts

I want to go back to stock.

Can someone please tell me what I'll need to do here to go back to original? I am NOT installing a tach

Thanks

Not sure if you can use that oil pressure line or not. The fitting that the original gauge uses would be the compression sleeve nut shown in the picture below. If there is a fitting like that on the end of the line it should screw into the stock gauge.

There should be a Green wire in the engine bay loom that would be for the original temp sender. It would be in the plastic channel that runs across the top of the cowl. The original sender may still be there.

As member ujsf01 said you can reuse the original cluster plug and loom, you just have to make sure that the original cluster was not a three hole idiot light cluster. The loom and connector wiring are different and you may damage some of the gauges if you try and mix the two.

Your last picture is the fiber optic line for the shifter indicator in the steering column. It connects to the instrument cluster light on the left side between the speedo and tach hole. (pic below) It was only used on automatic trucks....

I type way too slow, There was only one reply when I started this....

LockDoc

[ujsf01]

sorry, brain fart.....I forgot the older oil pressure gauges were still mechanical....duh.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by ujsf01

sorry, brain fart.....I forgot the older oil pressure gauges were still mechanical....duh.

That kind of stuff happens to everyone at some point in time Steve. As Coley says "all is good"...

LockDoc

[Mapearso]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Not sure if you can use that oil pressure line or not. The fitting that the original gauge uses would be the compression sleeve nut shown in the picture below. If there is a fitting like that on the end of the line it should screw into the stock gauge.

There should be a Green wire in the engine bay loom that would be for the original temp sender. It would be in the plastic channel that runs across the top of the cowl. The original sender may still be there.

As member ujsf01 said you can reuse the original cluster plug and loom, you just have to make sure that the original cluster was not a three hole idiot light cluster. The loom and connector wiring are different and you may damage some of the gauges if you try and mix the two.

Your last picture is the fiber optic line for the shifter indicator in the steering column. It connects to the instrument cluster light on the left side between the speedo and tach hole. (pic below) It was only used on automatic trucks....

I type way too slow, There was only one reply when I started this....

LockDoc

Thanks for the info -- Very helpful!!

Pretty sure this was NOT a 3 hole cluster with idiot lights...

The fiber optic line was cut -- I found it sitting inside the dash...

I will check on all the above

Question -- Would I just be better off just buying an original harness that hasn't been modified??

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by Mapearso

Thanks for the info -- Very helpful!!

Pretty sure this was NOT a 3 hole cluster with idiot lights...

The fiber optic line was cut -- I found it sitting inside the dash...

I will check on all the above

Question -- Would I just be better off just buying an original harness that hasn't been modified??

Here is a quick way to tell if your cluster connector is for a non gauge or full gauge cluster.

Look at the connector. It is numbered 1 - 6 on one side and 7-12 on the other. If there is no wires in #1 and #12 locations, then it was a non gauge cluster originally. If there are wires there, even if they are cut, they will both be black and black/white and they are for the amp gauge.

If the harness is hacked up bad, you will probably save yourself a lot of work and buy a good used under dash harness.

Hope this helps.
Happy holiday,
Tom

[Mapearso]

Originally Posted by TBONE1964

Here is a quick way to tell if your cluster connector is for a non gauge or full gauge cluster.

Look at the connector. It is numbered 1 - 6 on one side and 7-12 on the other. If there is no wires in #1 and #12 locations, then it was a non gauge cluster originally. If there are wires there, even if they are cut, they will both be black and black/white and they are for the amp gauge.

If the harness is hacked up bad, you will probably save yourself a lot of work and buy a good used under dash harness.

Hope this helps.
Happy holiday,
Tom

Here are pics of the connector --

overspray on the wires.

11 of the 12 are there...

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Mapearso

Here are pics of the connector --

overspray on the wires.

11 of the 12 are there...

That is a gauge connector. I would take a little Lacquer thinner or Acetone on a rag and clean the wires up so you can see the colors. Also clean the contacts on the connector. A little #0000 steel wool works good for that. Do not use the steel wool on the printed circuit contacts.

LockDoc

[Mapearso]

Also -- is this wiper screw stock??

[engineer_gregh]

LockDoc I've always wondered where the fiber optic light plugged. Not trying to high jack the thread but that is very useful, thank you.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Mapearso

Also -- is this wiper screw stock??

Hard to tell by the pictures. Can you take a good one from above?

Originally Posted by engineer_gregh

LockDoc I've always wondered where the fiber optic light plugged. Not trying to high jack the thread but that is very useful, thank you.

No problem Greg. Glad it was useful.

LockDoc

[VetteVet]

As per my diagram in post 3, the number 5 and 6 pins are used for the temperature light 0n the three gauge cluster ( 5 ) and number ( 6 ) on the gauge cluster, Yours.

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by Mapearso

Here are pics of the connector --

overspray on the wires.

11 of the 12 are there...

You can look at the diagram I attached. It will tell you locations and what each wire is for and color.

Very helpful.

Tom

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

As per my diagram in post 3, the number 5 and 6 pins are used for the temperature light 0n the three gauge cluster ( 5 ) and number ( 6 ) on the gauge cluster, Yours.

Sorry Vette, I missed your post above on that.

Same information and should be helpful.

Take care,
Tom

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by TBONE1964

You can look at the diagram I attached. It will tell you locations and what each wire is for and color.

Very helpful.

Tom

Beatcha Tom.
Did you get the 30 ohm 90 ohm tank sender resolved? VV

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Beatcha Tom.
Did you get the 30 ohm 90 ohm tank sender resolved? VV

Well, I passed on the information for the 45 ohm resistor at the sender between the sender wire (tan) and the sender ground. I appreciate the help on that and knew you were the right man to ask about it.

Hope you have a good Easter,
Tom