4wd Wheel Bearing Lock Washer Stuck!

[CJM72]

Hi Guys,

Been working through some items on my new (to me) 72 Blazer, but I've run into a bit of a snag. While trying to adjust (tighten) the wheel bearing on my front axle, the lock washer on the passenger side wheel bearing adjusting nut just won't pop free. I've been using a 90 degree pick to try to pop it free, but I just can't get much leverage on it.

Anyone run into this issue before? I clearly need to clean out a little more of the old grease to get a better look, but I'm nervous to force it.

Also, should the axle shaft be super loose? I'm new to this old school stuff, but I can grab the end of the axle stub and move it around pretty freely. I don't recall the driver's side being loose at all. What do you 4x4 guys think?

For reference this is a typical 4x4 1972 blazer with a 350 and a th350. I believe the 4wd was working when I bought it, but I've had very little seat time up to this point.

[CJM72]

Can you get parts for these old spicer dana 44 locking hubs anymore? The tapped holes in one of my retainer plates are pretty well stripped and I'm missing at least one o-ring. I can't seem to find a parts list for these anywhere.

[tjsblazer]

Can't see very well with all the grease. The lock washer should slide straight out once the outer nut is removed. As far as parts, you could start with these guys. They are one place that can be helpful on the phone if required.

http://www.quad4x4.com/gm44front1968-1972.html

[Chknlyps2]

Originally Posted by CJM72

Hi Guys,

Been working through some items on my new (to me) 72 Blazer, but I've run into a bit of a snag. While trying to adjust (tighten) the wheel bearing on my front axle, the lock washer on the passenger side wheel bearing adjusting nut just won't pop free. I've been using a 90 degree pick to try to pop it free, but I just can't get much leverage on it.

Anyone run into this issue before? I clearly need to clean out a little more of the old grease to get a better look, but I'm nervous to force it.

Also, should the axle shaft be super loose? I'm new to this old school stuff, but I can grab the end of the axle stub and move it around pretty freely. I don't recall the driver's side being loose at all. What do you 4x4 guys think?

For reference this is a typical 4x4 1972 blazer with a 350 and a th350. I believe the 4wd was working when I bought it, but I've had very little seat time up to this point.

I always use a set of snap ring pliers and put the tips in 2 of the holes and squeeze then pull it off straight. There is a pin sticking in one of the holes from the inner nut.

The axles move around pretty good on mine once the outer snap ring is removed.

[1rippen6]

Originally Posted by Chknlyps2

I always use a set of snap ring pliers and put the tips in 2 of the holes and squeeze then pull it off straight. There is a pin sticking in one of the holes from the inner nut.

The axles move around pretty good on mine once the outer snap ring is removed.

X2 snap ring pliers if possible right beside where the pin sticks through from the other nut. 90 degree pick on the opposite side and work it back and forth until it lets loose.

[CJM72]

Thanks guys. I'm guessing the lockwasher got torqued hard enough for the locking tab to get jammed radially. I'll try to clean out the grease and get a better look tonight. I'm hoping I can use a punch to slightly rotate the lockwasher if it's bound up.

It's funny how every 'quick' project I attempt on this truck turns into a partial rebuild of whatever needs fixing! First it was the minor transfer case leak, then the steering box leak, trans pan leak. I guess this is just the reality of 44 year old parts.

The body on this blazer is in good shape, but I swear the only fluid that isn't leaking on this truck is the brake fluid... for now.

[jaros44sr]

I had the same problem... clean the grease out and you will see that the tag has moved around on the slot, I used a small punch to back it off the slot. I'm not sure but I read that you are supposed to use oil in the hubs, not grease!
We should get a answer on this, as it seems important which lubricant to use

[1rippen6]

Something else you can try if the above doesn't work is find the pin and take a small punch and drive it in that may let the lock washer move a little. I have find some many times were the person didn't line up the hole in the lock washer and when they install the outer nut it presses the pin back into the nut.

[CJM72]

Lots of good ideas here. I'll give it a go tonight after the kids go to bed.

On a side note, it looks like one of my hubs has been abused during a repair in the past. I brought the parts to work to clean up in the wash tank, and there are some glaring issues. I knew the driver's side snap ring was wrong, but when I inspected the retainer/adapter plate (plate the outer cover bolts to) has been ground to practically half its typical size. The threads are pretty well wiped out and I can't seem to find a replacement part anywhere.

I can also see the outside of the clutch was ground up pretty badly, but it seems to work still. Finally, the clutch springs are different heights. One might be old and compressed, but I'm a little worried that this thing won't hold up.

Any hope to find parts for these original hubs or are people generally just going with aftermarket parts? This is definitely not an original rig now and when the 6.0 goes in, it will be further bastardized.

[jaros44sr]

I have found all my parts in the classified section of this board. Or just post up a WTB

You will have to turn blue
I have a Spicer dealer around the block. If you want new

[1rippen6]

I should have all the hub hardware you need even a hub if that is the issue. If they mixed and matched parts from the newer 44s that may be the issue. There was a link to explain the differences I will see if I can find it tonight.

[CJM72]

Finally got my lock washer removed tonight. After some additional cleaning and inspection, it became apparent that the lock washer had rotated (clockwise) and the locking tab was no longer in the groove. I'm not sure if the threads were damaged, and it appears the tab on the lock washer is pretty worn. Might need to order a new one of those.

I should probably disassemble the whole thing and inspect the bearings for damage. I have no experience with tapered wheel bearings, but i'll have to learn. I'm sure there are tutorials on this board that show how to remove the hub and replace the bearings if necessary. I got a bad feeling that the further I dig, the more I'll need to replace.

Went ahead and ordered the Warn premium hubs. If I can source some used parts, I'll try to stick with the blue Spicer hubs. We'll see how long it takes to scare up some spares!

Thanks for the help. This place is great!