AAW/external regulated alternator

[stevenfromtexas]

ok guys, please have patience with me. i need some help with my American Auto Wire alternator wiring. i bought what i know now is an externally regulated alternator shortly after i finished my engine. knowing what i know now....i might have gotten an internally regulated. ok heres the deal....
my AAW harness seems to be for an "internal" according to the instructions.

2 big questions...

1. should i bite the bullet and get an internally regulated alternator??? if so, what years did our trucks come with them so i know what to tell the store.

2. if i don't need a new alternator and can go with mine can i run a large "red" wire from the BATT on the alternator to the positive on the battery? i have read the guys post on the conversion but not too sure they apply to my question....maybe they do, heck, i'm a rookie!!!

here's a picture of what i have ......ALSO, are the small brown and small red wires in the correct location?

[stevenfromtexas]

sorry...forgot to mention

'67 250ci

just curious also....

i put a vintage air system in and a RetroSound head unit. plan on a little beef-ier stereo too. should i go ahead and up grade alternators with these things being said?

i believe this one is 55amps

[harpo231]

I'd go bigger, Mine is 100amp cuz of pro flo and well , more is better

[stevenfromtexas]

ok....any ideas on the wiring issue?


i'm think that too

[harpo231]

Ya shouldnt that be a fused wire from fuse box ?

[stevenfromtexas]

yes sir, the big red wire on the "batt" on the alternator is from the block currently

[RichardJ]

>>the big red wire on the "batt" on the alternator is from the block currently <<

Engine block or Battery Junction Block?


I don't see smoke in the picture, so I'm guessing you haven't connected a battery YET.

Those terminals on your 10DN alternator are labeled R & F. Way different animal than a 10SI with terminals marked 1 & 2

[stevenfromtexas]

ok....sorry, here comes the "have patience with me" part....

"junction block", no sir

the instructions did say anything about it unless i totally over looked it

this picture is the engine harness...
the connector is for an internal. in the "headlight wiring" part it has a brown wire that it says to add to the other spot. its labeled "alternator ignition"

[Jason Banks]

I looked up that kit and the wiring diagram you show.

Here's the diagram for others to see:
https://www.americanautowire.com/PDF...20IN%200.0.pdf

Here's another diagram that make it a little clearer(on the 2nd page):
https://www.americanautowire.com/PDF...20IN%201.0.pdf

I wanted to see what 'Classic Update Series' meant and found this description of the alternator an it says " Alternator connectors are supplied for GM “SI” series internal regulated and all “one wire”alternators. GM “CS” series alternator connector available separately." on this page - https://www.americanautowire.com/vie...evrolet-truck/

So...you have it wired wrong. You will need to add some wiring and a voltage regulator to make the 10DN you have work. See here - https://alternatorparts.com/gm-exter...g-diagram.html

The easiest fix is to just get a 10SI alternator. I feel like either a 55 amp or 63 amp is sufficient for what you describe.

If you have amazon prime this is a good deal on a 55 amp. Note the 20% coupon check box - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C9M40S/

Or ...here is a 63 amp - https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-334-2...dp/B000C9NN5S/

Or go to the autoparts store and ask for an alternator for a 1976 Chevy pickup with a 250 engine.

Study this page to make sure you know what your need - http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...elcoremy.shtml

The 'clocking' of the back of the alternator is not important....especially since you are rewiring and there is so much room on the inline 6.

[RichardJ]

Adding a bunch of wires to the starter solenoid and using the solenoid as an electrical junction terminal is a bad idea.

Adding a bunch of wires to the battery cable clamp is another bad idea.

A junction block next to the battery, specifically intended to connect all the wires together is much better. A small battery cable pig-tail, feeding the junction block serves as a fusible link.
Your charging wire has a Blue segment at the end that is a fusible link connection. If the Blue segment is nicely installed, you could just connect it to the junction block.

If the other Red wire in the drawing is long enough, connect it to the battery junction block. Later additions such as relays for head lights and fans can be tied to this junction block.
Your Vintage Air calls for two 12 volt power sources. The 30 Amp breaker can be tied to this junction block. The other 12 volt source would be from a Switched fuse, in your fuse block.

None of that junk should be hanging off the battery cable clamp or starter solenoid.



You already have two wires on the Alt Bat terminal. That little jumper wire SHOULD NOT be there for a correctly wired SI Alternator. SI terminal #2 should be connected to the Battery Junction Block. SI terminal #2 is the battery Sensing wire for the voltage regulator, inside the SI alternator.
You can now put the RED wire from the firewall connector on the Alt Bat terminal. That puts you back at two wires on the Bat terminal.
Remember, that's the Red wire that is probably too short to reach the Battery Junction Block and is closer to where GM had it anyway.

I'm not 100% sure that you understand, YOU CANNOT USE THAT DN ALTERNATOR,THAT YOU HAVE PICTURED, WIRED IN THAT FASHION.

YOU MUST REPLACE IT WITH A SI ALTERNATOR.

The alternative is to add an external regulator and several wires.

[RichardJ]

One more thing I need to be clear on. My drawing above shows the Alt terminal #2 jumper wire, just as everyone and his uncle wires the SI alternator, which is incorrectly.

The purpose of the voltage regulator is to control the Alternator OUTPUT, based on what the Battery needs to maintain the correct charge. The best place for terminal #2 to get that information is directly from the battery. The battery junction block is the place Alt terminal #2 should be connected to.

One more thing. If you are going to use an HEI distributor, DO NOT use that yellow wire on the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid. Leave that terminal unused.

[stevenfromtexas]

Jason and Richard...

THANK YOU both very much!!

[VetteVet]

First of all I agree with Richard.
Your picture is of an externally regulated alternator and it will not work the way you have it wired, in fact it will probably burn up or kill the battery. If you want to use it you will have to rewire the harness and add an external regulator.

The AAW harness has a brown wire which is the alternator exciter wire for the alternator and in the original harness it is wired to the external voltage regulator
and in the conversion it has to be wired directly to the SI internally regulator alternator. If you were converting the stock harness then you could jump the EVR plug and change the alternator plug or you could just run thye brown wire from the EVR directly to the internally regulated alternator as in Richards diagram.

That being said, you would be much better off going to the SI alternator or even to a CS style. Your voltage and current output will be much better and you can run your future additional accessories without converting later. perhaps you can return the alternator and exchange it for an internal regulated one or you can probably sell it to another 67 /72 truck owner.

If you convert you should use a main junction and not the starter solenoid, along with some fusible links in the alternator and battery power wires. If you have the gauge style dash your ammeter probably will not work with the AAW circuit.

Study this thread and you will have all the information you need.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417872

[stevenfromtexas]

thank you vette!!

headed to get an SI alternator now. thank all of you guys for the info!!!!

as far as my ammeter prolly not working, what is the best way to let me know if my alternator is not charging once i get this thing running.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by stevenfromtexas

as far as my ammeter prolly not working, what is the best way to let me know if my alternator is not charging once i get this thing running.

Buy a volt meter gauge and hook it up to any good 12 volt source in the cab and ground it.
Also member twofakind make a coversion to place in the stock opening also.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=653967

[stevenfromtexas]

thank you brother!!!

[VetteVet]

Measure the output of the alternator at the large wire on the back with a multi-meter and if it's working you should get 14.5 volts or a little less at idle.

And's advice is great and it's easy to do.

If you want to keep your battery gauge, and it works you can tell if the alternator is charging by looking at the battery gauge, and with the engine off if you tun on the headlights, the gauge will swing left toward D (discharge), and when you start the engine it will come back to center and steady at the first mark right of center. If it doesn't work. Then study this thread and it will help you understand how the battery gauge (also called an ammeter) works, and is wired in the harness.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601025

[stevenfromtexas]

again.... thank you soooo much!!!

any chance you guys (senior forum members) would run for president????

y'all are geniuses!!!!

[VetteVet]

Careful we aren't supposed to talk politics on the forum. I will say I wouldn't want the job but I'm very happy with the one who has it.

[stevenfromtexas]

agreed....

my apologizes no mal-intentions at all

[69Tom]

I believe this is the simple addition to the wiring kit that you'd need to run a two-prong alternator. I have no idea why this isn't included on a kit that was purchased for trucks that come with a two prong.

https://www.americanautowire.com/sho...conversion-kit

Question is, should I get the kit or should I just get an internal regulated alternator as noted above? Not sure of the pros and cons of either style alternator. I need a new one, so it doesn't really matter either way to me.

[Bonestock3ott]

So can one of the more knowledgeable members on vehicle electrical give a reason why so many want to switch to an internally regulated alternator? Or the need to?

[TBONE1964]

Originally Posted by Bonestock3ott

So can one of the more knowledgeable members on vehicle electrical give a reason why so many want to switch to an internally regulated alternator? Or the need to?

For the best answer I have, unless you are building a bone stock 100 point restored truck, it is just easier to manage having it all in one spot (inside the alternator.

You can really clean up a engine bay with less wiring. The internally regulated alternators are less prone to failure as an external design.

Also I think there is more options for amp output than the external style. Although, anything over a 63 amp alternator and the amp gauge does not work correctly. A great reason to purchase one of my volt gauge conversions. Get rid of the amp gauge and have a factory looking volt gauge

Hope this helps,
Tom