ECE drop spindle disc conversion instructions? 67 C10

[Russ.W.]

G'day folks. Finally getting around to doing my drop spindle front disc conversion from Early Classic Enterprises (on my 67 C10), but it's been years since I bought the kit and can't find any instructions.

Unfortunately with their recent closing down, they've also removed all their tech articles off their website. I've dropped them an email, but yet to get a response.

Any chance anyone here has a .pdf copy they can share?

Cheers.

[Russ.W.]

I think I figured it out. I took photo's from each step of the process, so I'll post them here for future reference. If you notice something out of whack, please don't hesitate to let me know.

Apologies if this should have been posted in the dedicated Suspension forum.



- Spring in and drop spindle on.


- Dust shield on.


- Small rubber gasket. This was the part I was unsure of. It's the only place I could think of for it to go.


- Bearings greased and installed, along with seal.


- Outer bearing, keyed washer, and nut in place. Pin in. Spins great.


- Then on to the pads, using the anti rattle clip/retainer. This also took me a while to figure out. This is the only place I could make it work. Hope it's not wrong.


- All buttoned in and looking good.





The only issue I've come across is that the outer pad (the one without a retainer clip) is a little wobbly, and unless I hold it in place, it contacts the disc when spinning. The bolts that run through it lock down in place, but as you can see in the next photo, the hole in the pad back is larger than the bolt. This is where the movement comes from.



I'm wondering if this hole should have a some kind of bushing in it? Or will the issue sort itself out once the brake system finished and properly bled? This is my first time installing a disc conversion by myself, so I'm not sure what's what.

Thanks for your time.

[TruDom]

i'll look when i get home. but i do remember playing with the pads a bit. slop will come out of it with fluid in the brake caliper.

I think you might have the pads switched though. the holed pad might go on the inside with the clip. looks like there is a metal bushing thing for it to sit on in the caliper picture.

sidenote: one of my bleed holes wasn't completely punched out from the metal casting and it took me forever to find the issue on why the caliper wouldnt bleed. As it looked normal with the bleed valve on.

[Russ.W.]

Originally Posted by TruDom

i'll look when i get home. but i do remember playing with the pads a bit. slop will come out of it with fluid in the brake caliper.

I think you might have the pads switched though. the holed pad might go on the inside with the clip. looks like there is a metal bushing thing for it to sit on in the caliper picture.

sidenote: one of my bleed holes wasn't completely punched out from the metal casting and it took me forever to find the issue on why the caliper wouldnt bleed. As it looked normal with the bleed valve on.

Thanks for the reply. I‘ll double check the pads today. They are specific fit - inner & outer pads can’t be accidentally be placed on the wrong side of the Caliper.

However, there is no left/right markings on the pads, so maybe the pads I have on this right-side Caliper actually go on the left side of the truck.

Will check it out.

[SCOTI]

The rubber seal actually goes under the dust shield (between the spindle hub base & dust shield)

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

You happen to notice the calipers don't fit as nice on the spindle as original? My 71 wasn't quite flush like before. I did a little sanding since this pic, but it's still not a perfect fit like original.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

You happen to notice the calipers don't fit as nice on the spindle as original? My 71 wasn't quite flush like before. I did a little sanding since this pic, but it's still not a perfect fit like original.

That's a common issue w/aftermarket spindles so not any one specific brand. A little filing does the trick.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

That's a common issue w/aftermarket spindles so not any one specific brand. A little filing does the trick.

I see. I only sanded a little off, perhaps I should have taken more, because they're not flush. It's my understanding that's for aesthetics only, so long as the caliper bolts insert as intended and the discs are square. Or so I hope

[Russ.W.]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The rubber seal actually goes under the dust shield (between the spindle hub base & dust shield)

Damn it! hahaha. Thanks for the heads up. I knew I'd get something wrong.

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

You happen to notice the calipers don't fit as nice on the spindle as original? My 71 wasn't quite flush like before. I did a little sanding since this pic, but it's still not a perfect fit like original.

I'm converting from drum brakes, so I have no reference for how original spindles differ. I'll take a look though and so how well they seat. Cheers.


Can anyone tell what the "clip" on the inner pad is for? and what it's orientation should be? As I have them set now, this clip is at the top of the spindle. If I swap the inner pads from left to right, it is at the bottom of the caliper.

[zosoppp]

Originally Posted by Russ.W.

Can anyone tell what the "clip" on the inner pad is for? and what it's orientation should be? As I have them set now, this clip is at the top of the spindle. If I swap the inner pads from left to right, it is at the bottom of the caliper.

That's likely not a clip, but the pad wear indicator. When the pad is worn down it will screech on the rotor announcing it's repair time. It should be on the trailing end of the pad when the wheel is going forward.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by zosoppp

That's likely not a clip, but the pad wear indicator. When the pad is worn down it will screech on the rotor announcing it's repair time. It should be on the trailing end of the pad when the wheel is going forward.

Pretty sure the scraper up or down doesn't matter, but I installed the pads as I found them, which was the scraper positioned at the top front of the caliper. Correct, scrapes when the pads need replacing.

Looking forward to seeing what you do with your caliper fit. Hopefully I don't have a do-over (yikes). I was on the shy side about filing because everything is already finished. and word was it they work as intended regardless. Don't quote me on that, from here I'm a novice.

Second instance I finish coated something only to find cast replacement parts aren't replacement parts until you break out a file, whoops! Water pump really (*()^ me off too brushed three coats on that paper weight to find the impostor doesn't clear an OEM timing cover cleanly. Should have bought the Delco the first time

[Russ.W.]

Originally Posted by zosoppp

That's likely not a clip, but the pad wear indicator. When the pad is worn down it will screech on the rotor announcing it's repair time. It should be on the trailing end of the pad when the wheel is going forward.

Ah good to know. Thanks for the input.

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Pretty sure the scraper up or down doesn't matter, but I installed the pads as I found them, which was the scraper positioned at the top front of the caliper. Correct, scrapes when the pads need replacing.

Looking forward to seeing what you do with your caliper fit. Hopefully I don't have a do-over (yikes). I was on the shy side about filing because everything is already finished. and word was it they work as intended regardless. Don't quote me on that, from here I'm a novice.

Second instance I finish coated something only to find cast replacement parts aren't replacement parts until you break out a file, whoops! Water pump really (*()^ me off too brushed three coats on that paper weight to find the impostor doesn't clear an OEM timing cover cleanly. Should have bought the Delco the first time

I’m going to grab my file and see if I can tidy up the Caliper for a better fitting pad. See if it makes a difference.

[TruDom]

Originally Posted by Russ.W.

Thanks for the reply. I‘ll double check the pads today. They are specific fit - inner & outer pads can’t be accidentally be placed on the wrong side of the Caliper.

However, there is no left/right markings on the pads, so maybe the pads I have on this right-side Caliper actually go on the left side of the truck.

Will check it out.

you have the pads correct. the holed pad goes on the outside; thats how mine are. no bushing or anything.
I also have a little play 1-2mm. it doesnt move around once you bleed the brakes.

[jonmc56]

I just uploaded a copy of the instructions that came with my ECE disc brake kit here:

ECE Brake Kit.pdf

The pics aren't great, but they weren't great in the original document either. Hope this is helpful to you.

I'm sure sad to see ECE go away, their stuff was top notch.

Jon

[Russ.W.]

Originally Posted by jonmc56

I just uploaded a copy of the instructions that came with my ECE disc brake kit here:

ECE Brake Kit.pdf

The pics aren't great, but they weren't great in the original document either. Hope this is helpful to you.

I'm sure sad to see ECE go away, their stuff was top notch.

Jon

You are a champion. Thanks mate. Nice to also have the required torque specs. Now I can bolt it down properly. Thanks again.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by jonmc56

I just uploaded a copy of the instructions that came with my ECE disc brake kit here:

ECE Brake Kit.pdf

The pics aren't great, but they weren't great in the original document either. Hope this is helpful to you.

I'm sure sad to see ECE go away, their stuff was top notch.

Jon

Kudos to you for the helping hand. This site has some good people!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Your front brake hoses run from the front of the crossmember right? If orientation is the same as a 71 then replacement brake hoses are too short. I read up and it looks like approx. 16" is right. Original hoses are 13"?

13" doesn't clear the upper ball joint. Clearly not on my LH side, which may have something to do with having to max torque the joint to clear the cotter pin

Also the replacement brake hose fitting may not quite match the brackets on your crossmember. I think replacements hoses are 1973, might be 72.

16" is not confirmed, but the guy didn't deny it either. Sounds right. Stainless isn't a bad idea, but I'm having hoses made, hopefully with the right crossmember fitting. For all I know you and ECE have it figured out already. It really is a shame he's done. Real nice guy, he helped me a few times. If I remember right, he's one source who said sure original calipers aren't flush but it works.

Been a year since I installed everything, but I recall the caliper bolts fitting into tight holes spindle and caliper, perhaps even pads. In other terms, I'm not sure filing the caliper flush to the spindle makes a difference how the pads fit. But again, looking forward to what you end up doing.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by jonmc56

I just uploaded a copy of the instructions that came with my ECE disc brake kit here:

ECE Brake Kit.pdf

The pics aren't great, but they weren't great in the original document either. Hope this is helpful to you.

I'm sure sad to see ECE go away, their stuff was top notch.

Jon

Thank you Jon, I'm now able to add this to my repository ( I've got the same ECE spindle + brake kit installed)!!!

-klb