New parts stiffie

[stilldreamin6772]

Hey guys and gals,
I recently replaced the power steering box, pitman arm, and idler arm on my 67 yesterday and it seems really stiff to go lock to lock. Is there normaly a break in period or did I screw screw something up. Box is a cardone reman and the pitman and idler are both moog. Mind you this is while it's still in the air. Looks like things are free no binding. Any ideas? TIA

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by stilldreamin6772

Hey guys and gals,
I recently replaced the power steering box, pitman arm, and idler arm on my 67 yesterday and it seems really stiff to go lock to lock. Is there normaly a break in period or did I screw screw something up. Box is a cardone reman and the pitman and idler are both moog. Mind you this is while it's still in the air. Looks like things are free no binding. Any ideas? TIA

What procedure did you use to bleed the system??

[dmjlambert]

Sorry I gotta ask because you didn't say. Is this with a good working power steering pump that has fluid, and with the engine running, and did you bleed the air by going from lock to lock a couple times and add more fluid? Did you set up the power steering gear adjustments for thrust bearing preload and over-center preload yourself, or just use the steering gear as-is out of the box? What year is the power steering gear made for, I've heard that 67 is a different thing compared to later years, so wonder what is your setup. The adjustments are mentioned and excerpts from the manual in this other thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=812162

[stilldreamin6772]

Hey guys, The box is a "new" cardone reman for a 77 C10. The truck had one in it when i bought it but it was sloppy and leaked. The numbers that were on the box indicated that was what year it was so i just went with that and along with the pitman arm for the same year. The idler is for my year truck a 67. The pump is a year old.

The procedure I did was top off fluid and turn the wheel lock to lock slowly with the engine running and topping off fluid as I went. I did this about 10-15 time the first time then had my son turn the wheel while I looked underneath to see if anything was binding this was an additional 5-8 more times. I did use the box as is out of the box. I didn't know that there was anything I was to adjust. I'll read the attached thread

[Greasey Harley]

When you turn all the way to lock, it causes the pump to cavitate and prevents the system from bleeding properly.
Try jacking the front end up so the tires are off the ground. With the engine running, turn the wheel left and right about 20 times, stopping before you hit the locks.

[stilldreamin6772]

Originally Posted by Greasey Harley

When you turn all the way to lock, it causes the pump to cavitate and prevents the system from bleeding properly.
Try jacking the front end up so the tires are off the ground. With the engine running, turn the wheel left and right about 20 times, stopping before you hit the locks.

That's exactly what I'm doing. It's still on jack stands. Should ha e said that sorry.

[RustyPile]

I installed power steering on my truck using a Cardone gear box. The instructions that came with my unit said to jack up the frontend and turn the wheel lock to lock several times WITHOUT the engine running. Also made no mention of adjusting anything. I've had it on the truck almost 2 years with no problems.

[HO455]

I just replaced the box and pump on my 67 with new Lares units. They seem stiffer or maybe it just has less assist than the old set up did. That being said it does seem slightly easier to turn now I have a couple hundred miles on it. (Or I've adapted)
I know I went from 4.75 turns to 3.5 turns and the old set up had that feather light 1960's Cadillac steering feel. So my information may not be the most helpful.

[stilldreamin6772]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I installed power steering on my truck using a Cardone gear box. The instructions that came with my unit said to jack up the frontend and turn the wheel lock to lock several times WITHOUT the engine running. Also made no mention of adjusting anything. I've had it on the truck almost 2 years with no problems.

Mine didn't come with any instructions they unfortunately stayed with the box at the store for the core. Without the motor running how would the box get fluid?

[stilldreamin6772]

Originally Posted by HO455

I just replaced the box and pump on my 67 with new Lares units. They seem stiffer or maybe it just has less assist than the old set up did. That being said it does seem slightly easier to turn now I have a couple hundred miles on it. (Or I've adapted)
I know I went from 4.75 turns to 3.5 turns and the old set up had that feather light 1960's Cadillac steering feel. So my information may not be the most helpful.

Maybe I'm being to critical? My setup was unknown now everything is within a year old from steering wheel to lug nuts. May just need to put some miles on it but that won't happen for awhile. NY salt life...

[HO455]

Originally Posted by stilldreamin6772

Mine didn't come with any instructions they unfortunately stayed with the box at the store for the core. Without the motor running how would the box get fluid?

Here are the bleeding instructions I used.

https://www.larescorp.com/toolbox/te...-instructions/

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by stilldreamin6772

Mine didn't come with any instructions they unfortunately stayed with the box at the store for the core. Without the motor running how would the box get fluid?

You're overthinking the project.. Cardone instructions say to jack up the frontend. Fill the reservoir with fluid and rotate steering wheel lock to lock without engine running.. Maintain fluid level in reservoir. Keep rotating steering wheel until fluid level no longer drops. May require several "cycles" to fill the system with fluid. Start engine and rotate a few more times..

Shame on the parts supply for keep in your instructions. A lesson I learned a long time ago about returning cores.. Remove EVERY ITEM from the box before putting the old part in it.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by stilldreamin6772

Hey guys and gals,
I recently replaced the power steering box, pitman arm, and idler arm on my 67 yesterday and it seems really stiff to go lock to lock. Is there normaly a break in period or did I screw screw something up. Box is a cardone reman and the pitman and idler are both moog. Mind you this is while it's still in the air. Looks like things are free no binding. Any ideas? TIA

Did you modify the frame or use spacers between the new box and the frame? Maybe the Cardone doesn't require it, but for most later power steering boxes installed on a '67 frame, either the frame needs modified or spacers used between the frame and steering box.

LockDoc

[stilldreamin6772]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Did you modify the frame or use spacers between the new box and the frame? Maybe the Cardone doesn't require it, but for most later power steering boxes installed on a '67 frame, either the frame needs modified or spacers used between the frame and steering box.

LockDoc

I did heat up the frame and bend it in some. Then used one grade 8 washer so the box clears the frame Because I couldn't get it hot enough with my Map gas torch to dimple the top part of the frame. There is a washer in all 4 holes so that it's not twisting.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by stilldreamin6772

I did heat up the frame and bend it in some. Then used one grade 8 washer so the box clears the frame Because I couldn't get it hot enough with my Map gas torch to dimple the top part of the frame. There is a washer in all 4 holes so that it's not twisting.

The trick is to cut a "T" shaped slot using a cut-off wheel. Using the gear box as a guide, make the horizontal cut along the fold at the top of the frame rail. The vertical cut should be centered along the vertical "barrel" of the gear box.. Use a ball peen hammer to bend the two "L" shaped tabs inward enough to clear the gear box and grind the top of the frame for clearance.. Carefully weld up the slits. Prime and paint to prevent rust. No need for spacers, washers, etc..