John Lee's No Pop Out No Fail Front Turn Signals

[Sharps40]

Well, a bit tired of tweekin the front running lights and turn signals. They were intermittent due to bad grounds. A fault on these, the ground is thru the attachment of the socket to the lamp to the hood to the body.....less than usefull at nearly 50 years old. So, new sockets from a 71 up GM that have separate ground wires and I'll fix the harness up with a new one.

Driver side socket is three wires...ground is thru the socket, the third wire is a paired feed for the PS parking light. I'll replace it with a 3 wire socket that has ground wire and still pair up the parking light to feed the Passenger side parking light like original. The pairing is because the bulkhead connector has only three wires...L TS, R TS and a single feed for parking lights that pairs off from the DS lamp socket to feed the PS lamp socket.



PS lamp socket is two wires, grounded thru the socket itself.



The three wire bulkhead connector is in good shape and I'll reuse it, can't find a new one aftermarket anyway. Its the upper of the two going thru the firewall at this point. LT, RT and Park light wires only.



The original lamp sockets have seen better days. Neither stay in place and neither provide adaquate ground. The original style pop out to change bulbs...that becomes important later as I switch to the 71 and up GMC sockets and mod them to work.



New sockets are three wire with wired ground...not an exact fit but they can be made to work. I just have to remove the lamp bucket and lens to change the bulbs. A bit more work but its a better socket and minimal changes to the original lamp buckets...minor tweeks only to the cheep and replaceable lamp sockets and one small hole in the lamp bucket.



Here's one installed. Instead of snapping in and out like the originals, I simply mount them in the factory hole and slightly bend the tabs to hold them snugly in place. Again, a minor change to the original lamp bucket will be required and result in a better quality separatly ground socket making a more reliable circut.



Just so you know...the running/park light filiment is always the taller one, its dimmer. The shorter filiment is always the flasher, its brighter. I marked all the running light wires for creation and hook up of a totally new wireing harness from brand new wireing with all soldered connections.



I partly remove the DS hood brace to access and remove the original wireing harness. This prevents any cutting of the old harness for now since I want to copy and build it anew one wire at a time.