bagging questions.

[Naterman35]

Me and another guy were bouncing ideas for my truck lately..

Well today the "Bagging" topic came up... again.. I've asked about a zillion questions to these couple of guys who have bagged trucks... But all minis..

A good amount of the questions they don't have an answer to so im coming to a better place. Here.

My idea inst to have it all electronically controlled... Thats not the style of my truck...My truck doesn't have any thing like that.. im going for the rat rod style... but i still want bags.

I want to have manual valves.. like i push a lever and it starts letting air out. I close that level and push the second... Air starts going in.

I only want to bag the rear... Not the front.

So how do i do it? and were do i start.

Im looking to get slamming specialties bags most likely. The RE-7's.
Unless theres a better suggestion. They are $75 a piece. Anyone know a better bag for cheaper tell me please.

I've been doing research a good amount of the day and have started a parts list... PLEASE add onto it if you see missing pieces.
-Bags
-airline... I want to if at all possible use copper lines or possibly have a cloth covering
-Upper mounts
-lower mounts
-Compressor... (suggestions i wont constantly be dumping and lifting)
- A tank. I found a tank locally... 5 gal. 3 ports. 150 psi max... Good tank?

The pic is kinda the idea. A little confusing but did it quickly.
The idea is When bags are full i want to lower i open valve it all dumps out thru a pipe.
When i want to raise i open the air valve and air goes from the compressor/tank to the bags via a T. will that work or do they need there own individual lines?

Will this idea work or is it gonna be a big headahce.
It seems simple enough but im also not an air ride goo-roo here...

ANY AND ALL INPUT IS GREATLY APPRECIATED... ANY!. so if you think its the worst idea tell me... but also throw in some suggestions on how to make it work.. besides buying a thousand dollar kit...

[Hottrucks]

ok heres the first prob
you need to have up and down for each bag do use a T for both bags it will handle like crap for starters

the tank is ok I just did both front and rear myself on my rat rod truck on the cheap and it can be done the only $$$ was the bags and compressor the rest is our worthless labor.....

also I would notch it with a piece of old 4" pipe flip the rear shock mounts ( reuse your stock rear shocks) and when you do the front use a cupped lower control arm which you can build out of a piece of 8" pipe and a piece of flat stock then put on a set of monroe 5258 shocks ( from a 51 chysler )

heres what it looks like when your done I have about $400 bucks in it

[Naterman35]

Im only bagging the rear. so i wont need the parts fr up front.

Can you explain ur set up?. Like what parts you used?

Flipping the rear shock mounts is that bassically the same as a shock relocator like the ones they sell?

[Hottrucks]

I used the same bags you are going to but to get the amount of drop I wanted I cut a 4" peice of pipe in half and notched the frame and welded it in and made a box plate on the inside for strength ( enough to carry 1980 lbs of scrap steel to the dump)
not sure a bout the relocator mounts never saw a pair but if you switch the left to right they will be upside down and drop your lower shock mount about 3 inches.... I used dot line from the big truck shop ( and an old air tank too) your going to need a couple rocker switches and the soliniods to fit the air lines after that it's basic pumbing and electrical ...you could build the system after work and then put the bags in last if you need to keep it on the road

[Naterman35]

So your saying scrap the manual valve idea i take it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

.... not sure a bout the relocator mounts never saw a pair but if you switch the left to right they will be upside down and drop your lower shock mount about 3 inches....

Are you guessing @ that measurement? I flipped my mounts as you just described & if I remember correctly, it yielded about 1.5" max. I also modified the upper mount & was able to gain an additional 1.5" of travel for a total of 3" combined (upper & lower mod).

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Runinng a manual control valve is pretty primitive

Primitive compared to all the computer controlled high end stuff. It's also VERY functional, reliable, & cost effective.

Swap the bags for coils @ $75ea.

90° fittings for the bags, DOT airline, Thomas 215 comp, & a 2-way manual control paddle for independent control of 2 bags (AirRide p/n ARC1600 @ $329)

2-gal tank (ART p/n TANK2000 @ $60)

This will give you on the fly control of two rear bags independently. It won't be a speedy set-up, but it does get the job done effectively & reliably.

Naterman35 . . .... If this is more than you want to spend, get the bags, fittings, & DOT airline. Run 2 separate lines to two separate schrader valves & you can air the bags like you would your tires. The downside? Although cheap, the set-up is not user friendly out on the road where you have no air supply source (it's still functional though as I did my 68 this way for almost 2yrs.).

[N2TRUX]

If your looking for looow budget, put nags on the rear and hook up schrader valves to each line. The next step up is valves with paddle switches. Runinng a manual control valve is pretty primitive.

[Naterman35]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

If your looking for looow budget, put nags on the rear and hook up schrader valves to each line. The next step up is valves with paddle switches. Runinng a manual control valve is pretty primitive.

Nags?

Well im going with a low budget theme... hence the "Rat rod" term... thats getting the work done cheap using parts i can make or get at a junk yard... or for cheap used.

Thats why i dont want some high dollar setup. I want cheap effective... Its not everyones cup of tea but its mine... thats why i wanted the manual valves.

[Naterman35]

How much do solenoids run?

I could find some way to use them and paddle switches i guess if the valve idea isn't all that good.

[blime81]

Built a manual valve setup years back for a buddys '61. Worked just fine and am planning to do it again for my ratrod truck. Do it right and you'll get FBSS.

I used ball valves. My basic setup was 2 4-way pipe fittings connected together to make your air block. Like this ++. Then I put a 3/8 ball valve onto each top and bottom. Each valve ran a bag. Then on the left side of the ++ I put a 1/2" ball valve and ran some hose out through a hole in the cab. This was dump. On the right of the ++ I put another ball valve and ran that one to the compressor for fill. Bolt the whole thing to the floor with a copper pipe strap.

So if I wanted to raise the front I opened the valves to the front bags all the way then eased open the fill valve till it felt right. With the tank full you could easily yank the fill open and pop it up quick.

Basically you pick which bags you want to fill or dump open the valave for them and then use the big vavle on the end to do that. Then shut all the valves so the air won't "roll" side to side when you corner.

The only thing I'm gonna do different is add a gauge into the middle of the it so I can check pressure in any bag.

It looks cool and with a bunch of copper, galvanized and generally mismatched fittings to looks neat too.

Honestly I did it years back because it was cheap. I'll do it now because I think it looks cool and it is unique.

Good luck and let me know if I didn't explain it very well.

[Naterman35]

[QUOTE=blime81;3364544]Built a manual valve setup years back for a buddys '61. Worked just fine and am planning to do it again for my ratrod truck. Do it right and you'll get FBSS. ......QUOTE]

What did you use for lines to the bag? Still the copper and such?... I like this idea then i dont have the air going back and forth.. Have any actual pics?

[blime81]

Here's a pic to better explain my setup.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by blime81

Here's a pic to better explain my setup.

Looks functional, but you may need an extra set of arms (or more) to operate all that.

[blime81]

Used 3/8 push in fittings screwed onto the ball valves and regular airline. On the dump I used a barb fitting so I could put a piece of old heater hose on the end to route the dumped air out a hole in the floor (dumping in the cab isn't cool). Used a barb on the fill too since I was running it to a $17 walmart tire filling tank. Ghetto I know....but I had FBSS for less than a bill.

I'll probably do it that way again (nice tank+engine driven compressor this time). I don't know a reason you couldn't use hard lines. Small line = slow though.

Got the valves, 4 ways and such from Home Depot. Basically took the push in fittings with me and dry fitted the whole thing in the store! You may need some reducers and stuff so best to dry fit.

Didn't have that gauge in the original. Should be able to find a 3 way to add that (I think most gauges are 1/4" NPT). Thats really the only "upgrade" I'm gonna add.

I do have a pic or two but I'm stuck on a ship in the middle of the ocean and my pics are in storage.

Good luck and post a pic if you go this route.

[Shane]

those ball valves leak like the devil under pressure ... they are designed for liquids, not gases, which is what ambient air is considered when under pressure.

[Naterman35]

Originally Posted by Shane

those ball valves leak like the devil under pressure ... they are designed for liquids, not gases, which is what ambient air is considered when under pressure.

All the valves at school and work are ball type... They don't leak...

[blime81]

Originally Posted by Shane

those ball valves leak like the devil under pressure ... they are designed for liquids, not gases, which is what ambient air is considered when under pressure.

Actually the ones you can get at Home Depot say they are for liquids and air.

[Shane]

Ok ... good luck.

[ob1monkey]

I used 3/8 ball valves from home depot for about 3 years for the back of my 66. never had a problem with leaks. they held better than the manual MIC valves. only reason I don't use them anymore is I went electric scroll. and switch bosx to clean up the interior. blime's drwing looks right on target.

[Shane]

Looks like I might have offended the budget-minded crowd. I have two ball valves on a project sitting in the shop & it has been my experience they leak like the devil. I'm talking the system will lose ALL pressure within a 15 minute time frame.

Thus my reply.

[Naterman35]

You didnt anger me at all...

Were did you get ur valves from?

Im just curious because the ones on the airlines at my school and work are ball valves and they don't leak so i didn't know if maybe they were some special kind...I had assumed they were just ones from home depot but i very well could be wrong.

If you have had negative experience please... TELL ME.

[blime81]

Perhaps I should have been more clear in my description.

The ones to get are brass and say on the package or tag or handle that they are for pressuized (200 psi IIRC) gas, liquids etc.

These would be the same ball valves you would use for plumbing your shop for air or for replacing the ball valve on your compressor (or building an air cannon!).

You should also use locktite thread sealant to create a good air tight seal. A little soapy water in a spray bottle will show where your leaks are if you lose pressure.

You didn't offend me Shane. You rasied a good point about the type of valves. This is something that people need to be aware of.

[Shane]

You know I'm not sure where they came from, they were some we had laying around the shop. They very well may be liquid approved only.

[blime81]

Here's a place to buy the valves. I knew there was a term for the rated ones. WOG (water, oil, gas).

They also have them that will hook right up to copper tube. Looks like you are in luck with that.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-valves/=2esmpk

Good company by the way for all sorts of hardware etc. I've used them lots. No problems.

As for growing more arms, the truck we did it in was a 4 speed with the vavles mounted on the hump behind the shifter! Yeah there is a learning curve!

[Naterman35]

That websites INSANE!.. i never knew there was that many kinds of ball valves.

THERES LIKE 48 BILLION DIFFRENT KINDS OF BALL VALVES...