No Clutch

[68_Step]

Pulled the motor in my C10 to fix leaks and replace clutch. We cranked yesterday (Sounds great!!), but we do not have a clutch at all. When I push in the clutch pedal it feels like I am only pushing against the clutch pedal return spring. It grinds when trying to put it in gear, and will not go in gear. I only tried reverse - was afraid I might run through the back of the shop! The clutch rod is adjusted to its maximum length. The clutch was working before I pulled the motor - just figured i would replace since the motor was coming out. The clutch was last replaced in 1994.

What could I have done wrong? What can I look for without pulling transmission? Or am I just putting off something I am going to have to do?

The photo below is from my Haynes manual. Is the clutch disk orientated the right way?

[7tee]

It sounds like the throwout bearing is in backwards to me...

[LockDoc]

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Did you use the same style of pressure plate as you took out?

LockDoc

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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Did you use the same style of pressure plate as you took out?

LockDoc

Yes I did, I checked old against new to make sure I got the right one. Zoom MU9091-1

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by 7tee

It sounds like the throwout bearing is in backwards to me...

When installed on the fork, the large bearing surface should be in between the fork and pressure plate "fingers", right?

[old Chevy guy]

Yes the larger turning surface toward the motor side. Can you see up in there to judge what's going on with the inspection cover off on the bottom? if the fingers are depressing then the pressure plate is junk. otherwise some dimension has changed to make it so your not getting enough throw. was the throw-out bearing changed too? If so are you sure that height was the same?

[Jurassic-1]

Did you replace the throw-out bearing? They have a couple of different heights of throw-out bearings It may be a long shot but can happen. If not can the adjustment be changed.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by old Chevy guy

was the throw-out bearing changed too? If so are you sure that height was the same?

Originally Posted by Jurassic-1

Did you replace the throw-out bearing? They have a couple of different heights of throw-out bearings It may be a long shot but can happen. If not can the adjustment be changed.

Yes, the throw out bearing was changed. As I was comparing old and new - the bearings were the same diameter and thickness / height.

[68_Step]

I will climb under tonight to see if I can see anything, covers are off - not sure if I can get a pic...

[firedemon]

did you cut the flywheel the different thickness throw out bearings are for when the flywheel gets thinner there has been times I had to make a new adjuster rod . it really sounds like it is out of adjustment if something with the clutch plate was backward you would not be able to bolt it together the throwout bearing will usually only go one way . I have seen bad pressure plate right out of the box .

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by firedemon

did you cut the flywheel the different thickness throw out bearings are for when the flywheel gets thinner there has been times I had to make a new adjuster rod . it really sounds like it is out of adjustment if something with the clutch plate was backward you would not be able to bolt it together the throwout bearing will usually only go one way . I have seen bad pressure plate right out of the box .

Yes, I had the flywheel resurfaced. Did you just make a longer rod?

[old Chevy guy]

any updates? very curious about this one.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by old Chevy guy

any updates? very curious about this one.

Not a lot of update just a photo of the throw out bearing. Kinda hard to get a decent pic. I will get under the truck tomorrow or Thursday evening and have someone push the clutch pedal so I can watch the bearing. Question: with the clutch released (pedal not pushed in) should the throw out bearing be touching the pressure plate fingers?

[cleszkie]

You said you pulled the motor. To do so, you had to disconnect the bellcrank at least on the engine side. Is your bellcrank properly re-mounted? If it is loose on one or both ends, the clutch fork will not be depressed properly, the tranny will not go into gear, and the only resistance you will fee is the pedal return spring.

[ultrahd4me]

I had the same problem on a 67 with a 3 speed. I hate to give you the bad news, but you more than likely have the clutch fork retaining clip in backwards or not fully seated on the ball stud. The clip has a curve to it and needs to be seated correctly to allow the clutch to be positioned correctly. I had to remove the trans again and the bellhousing to get it right. You'll know fairly quick if it's right, you should about 3/8"-1/2" free play in the peddle and about 1" of threads past the nut on the zbar.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by ultrahd4me

I had the same problem on a 67 with a 3 speed. I hate to give you the bad news, but you more than likely have the clutch fork retaining clip in backwards or not fully seated on the ball stud. The clip has a curve to it and needs to be seated correctly to allow the clutch to be positioned correctly. I had to remove the trans again and the bellhousing to get it right. You'll know fairly quick if it's right, you should about 3/8"-1/2" free play in the peddle and about 1" of threads past the nut on the zbar.

Oh crap... I will check in the morning, but I think that clip is on my workbench. I saw it last night and wondered "what the heck is that?" My workbench is a mess right now, littered with everything from Snapper mower to Farmall H parts. How does that fit into the fork? I can't wait till morning - heading to the barn now!

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by cleszkie

You said you pulled the motor. To do so, you had to disconnect the bellcrank at least on the engine side. Is your bellcrank properly re-mounted? If it is loose on one or both ends, the clutch fork will not be depressed properly, the tranny will not go into gear, and the only resistance you will fee is the pedal return spring.

Bell crank = the Z bar, right? I will check tomorrow night

[ultrahd4me]

There is a recessed slot milled around the hole the clip rides in, and the curve goes toward the hole. I would strongly recommend you pull it all, then assemble the bellhousing, clutch fork, retaining clip, and clutch fork boot all together. One last thing, you should get a firm "pop" when the clutch fork is seated on the ball, if not, then it's not installed correct or the clip has lost it strength. You can still get them from GM.

[hamjet]

Did you put # 3 in the pic back on the pushrod? And if so, can someone lay under the truck and watch what happens when the clutch pedal is depressed?

[truckdude239]

your missing the little fork piece on teh end of the rod number 3 in the picture above that will take out the 1/2 of play you have thats causing your clutch not to work.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by truckdude239

your missing the little fork piece on teh end of the rod number 3 in the picture above that will take out the 1/2 of play you have thats causing your clutch not to work.

Life got in the way for a couple days...

Question about this (and all who mentioned #3 missing).

I know it needs to be on there, but is seems to me that it is on the backside of the fork and would not affect the disengagement (pushing the pedal) of the clutch. Looks like it would mainly keep the fork from popping off the rod if you popped the clutch. What am I not understanding here? Same with #7 (the clip). The big brown truck is supposed to bring them tomorrow

I have ordered the bell crank seats, spring, spacer, and washer to see if that will help me tighten up tolerances.

[65standard]

You are wrong about piece #3. It is not on the backside of the fork. It goes on the end of the push rod and it is the part that pushes the fork. The way you hav it now, you will end up pushing the push rod through the hole in the fork in no time.

It is not a nut that holds the push rod from falling off, it is pivot point that pushes the fork.

[68_Step]

Originally Posted by 65standard

You are wrong about piece #3. It is not on the backside of the fork. It goes on the end of the push rod and it is the part that pushes the fork. The way you hav it now, you will end up pushing the push rod through the hole in the fork in no time.

It is not a nut that holds the push rod from falling off, it is pivot point that pushes the fork.

Oh man, off to the shop I go!

[68wannabe]

#3, like this...
Posted via Mobile Device

[65standard]

Yeah, you're missing the nut (3) at the end of the push rod. Also, you have the wrong style of spring clips (7) on the push rods at the crossshaft.