What's the trick for pulling a park brake assembly? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**71CHEVYSHORTBED402** · 02-09-2017, 10:40 PM

71 C-10

Cable retainers are removed and the cable is free. Just need to pull the studs on the assembly through the firewall. The unit is essentially wedged between the firewall and dashboard. I removed three bolts on the LH side of the dash panel, which helps, but it's not easy. I can pull the dash panel more, but I'd sure hate to bend or break something.

If the rod for the release handle could be removed then great. But it's riveted on, I don't want to cut it, and I'd have to monkey rig it on to re-assemble.

In other terms, preference is to do it right without damaging stuff like the dash panel and a great dash pad (gulp!).

Edit: If the best way is to remove the dash pad or something else I'm in. It's all coming apart anyway, though hadn't figured to remove the dash panel at all. I was planning to remove the pad last, because I hear it's a beatch.

I may be better off pulling the e-brake near last. Though all that's left are the fuse box, ignition switch, wiper assembly, dash pad, gas tank, front/rear windows and some minor details...........Then I'm ready to build a cab cart - finally.

Thanks for any input.

**70STOVEBOLT** · 02-09-2017, 11:05 PM

No trick, just remove the fasteners and slide the assembly toward the passenger side until you gain enough clearance for the studs to come through the firewall.

**71CHEVYSHORTBED402** · 02-09-2017, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

No trick, just remove the fasteners and slide the assembly toward the passenger side until you gain enough clearance for the studs to come through the firewall.

That was the side I was leaning to. Just popped a Heineken, maybe that will help. Any indication I'm damaging the threads...........Maybe one more beer.

**71CHEVYSHORTBED402** · 02-09-2017, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

That was the side I was leaning to. Just popped a Heineken, maybe that will help. Any indication I'm damaging the threads...........Maybe one more beer.

Beer didn't work. Too worried about stripping studs at the moment. Think I'll pull the cable through from the cab side first. At least I think it's pull from the cab side, the cable retainers at the assembly appear to be a permanent part of the cable, and they aren't going through that hole in the F/W.

**FirstOwner69** · 02-10-2017, 01:20 AM

You're losing me here and, I'm, therefore, a bit confused. Is removing the cable from the assembly inside the cab one of the things you are trying to do? If so, are you saying it appears riveted to the assembly? That is not the case. If I understand, what you are seeing is a round headed pin. The other end of the pin toward the kick panel has a clip on it to retain the cable. Once the pin is removed the cable is easily removed from the cab by pulling it through the firewall from the engine side. There is a rectangular grommet in the firewall you will also need to remove. Chances are it will have a slit in it allowing it to be separated from the cable. Below are the only pictures I have that may help. The first shows the pin in place (top of pic, circled). The second shows the firewall grommet (partially hidden by harness, circled). The third shows the end of the cable with the pin removed. It's a bit of a pain to get the clip off.

**71CHEVYSHORTBED402** · 02-10-2017, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

You're losing me here and, I'm, therefore, a bit confused. Is removing the cable from the assembly inside the cab one of the things you are trying to do? If so, are you saying it appears riveted to the assembly? That is not the case. If I understand, what you are seeing is a round headed pin. The other end of the pin toward the kick panel has a clip on it to retain the cable. Once the pin is removed the cable is easily removed from the cab by pulling it through the firewall from the engine side. There is a rectangular grommet in the firewall you will also need to remove. Chances are it will have a slit in it allowing it to be separated from the cable. Below are the only pictures I have that may help. The first shows the pin in place (top of pic, circled). The second shows the firewall grommet (partially hidden by harness, circled). The third shows the end of the cable with the pin removed. It's a bit of a pain to get the clip off.

I'm pulling the entire E-brake Jim. I started with the e-brake assembly, it's a bit jammed so I thought to remove the cable first, which may provide more clearance.

As for the cable, I've pulled the grommet no problem. I'm not seeing the clip you're referring to. Do you mean the cotter and clevis pin? Those are removed, but I doubt I can get "retainer two" through the firewall. There's a "ball clamp" on the end of the cable to what I'm calling retainer one. Behind that is "retainer two". Here's some more pics, for what it's worth.

Edit: Never mind the remove ball clamp business. Probably incorrect.

**71CHEVYSHORTBED402** · 02-10-2017, 01:15 AM

Speak of dash pad it's pulled. No mystery, but those speed nuts for the studs. Discovered unless you're lucky, constant pressure between the nut and dash pad is the ticket. Otherwise you're just stripping the parts. That and GM forgot one. I thought the pad looked a little off.

**71CHEVYSHORTBED402** · 02-10-2017, 05:02 PM

And I taped off the studs on the assembly, pulled the unit toward the passenger side and down under the dash. Done. That gives me plenty to do for clean-up and notes. Thanks for everything.

**71CHEVYSHORTBED402** · 02-10-2017, 05:22 PM

For anyone reading this thread and to avoid my confusion (ha!), remove that clamp retainer off the cable and pull the cable through from the engine compartment, just as stated above (many times). Pulling the cable may provide additional clearance to remove the E-brake assembly, but I doubt it's necessary. To pull the assembly, remove the three bolts for the dash panel, driver's side. Pull the panel back, and do as stated above and you're done. I removed the dash pad to avoid damaging it while pulling the panel. That probably wasn't necessary either, but at some point I figure to remove it anyway. Amazing how easy this stuff is.........considering how hard this stuff is

Andy4639 · 02-10-2017, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

For anyone reading this thread and to avoid my confusion (ha!), remove that clamp retainer off the cable and pull the cable through from the engine compartment, just as stated above (many times). Pulling the cable may provide additional clearance to remove the E-brake assembly, but I doubt it's necessary. To pull the assembly, remove the three bolts for the dash panel, driver's side. Pull the panel back, and do as stated above and you're done. I removed the dash pad to avoid damaging it while pulling the panel. That probably wasn't necessary either, but at some point I figure to remove it anyway. Amazing how easy this stuff is.........considering how hard this stuff is

While you have it out do the E brake mod to the pedal.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=7608946

**71CHEVYSHORTBED402** · 02-12-2017, 07:44 PM

Cleaned up the e-brake assm. Appears these are rust prone, though mine was surface rust. Any water and rust again. I figure these were due a top coat. I'll paint it. Perhaps these had a finish from factory less the black arm & pedal? I soaked it in WD-40, packed it away, and will save it for a day.

The pedal pad is super. One minor flaw in the bottom RH corner. It's the only pad I havn't been able to locate new, but no shame reusing this one. On topic, this pad is part # 3948727. The book shows that for a 69-70 truck. It was the only checkered pad of the three. Perhaps I replaced it at some point, or GM was using up their inventory.

And lastly here's a pic. of a Peruvian Inca Orchid. Like a wolf or coyote these are not hybrid. Other than the head, end of the tale and sometimes their feet they're hairless. Supposedly there's 1000 on Earth and we're fostering two. We did have three. As you can see they're VERY cute. She knows where the dog food is stored. However, when they play they're more like Tasmanian Devils than domestic dogs.

02-09-2017, 10:40 PM	#1
71CHEVYSHORTBED402 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern Nevada Posts: 7,156	What's the trick for pulling a park brake assembly? 71 C-10 Cable retainers are removed and the cable is free. Just need to pull the studs on the assembly through the firewall. The unit is essentially wedged between the firewall and dashboard. I removed three bolts on the LH side of the dash panel, which helps, but it's not easy. I can pull the dash panel more, but I'd sure hate to bend or break something. If the rod for the release handle could be removed then great. But it's riveted on, I don't want to cut it, and I'd have to monkey rig it on to re-assemble. In other terms, preference is to do it right without damaging stuff like the dash panel and a great dash pad (gulp!). Edit: If the best way is to remove the dash pad or something else I'm in. It's all coming apart anyway, though hadn't figured to remove the dash panel at all. I was planning to remove the pad last, because I hear it's a beatch. I may be better off pulling the e-brake near last. Though all that's left are the fuse box, ignition switch, wiper assembly, dash pad, gas tank, front/rear windows and some minor details...........Then I'm ready to build a cab cart - finally. Thanks for any input. __________________ Tony 71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assm. guide "kit" for restoring the truck from ground up. With assys, the guide accts for 1000s details, OEM identifications & part numbers, written in short order. 700+ images of assm., illust., charts, and points of interest. Much of the info. applies to all 67-72 GM trucks, and to a lessor degree all 67-72 GM vehicles. My build thread, and more on the guide https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025 Last edited by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402; 02-09-2017 at 11:00 PM.

02-09-2017, 11:05 PM	#2
70STOVEBOLT Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Winona Lake, IN Posts: 6,234	Re: What's the trick for pulling a park brake assembly? No trick, just remove the fasteners and slide the assembly toward the passenger side until you gain enough clearance for the studs to come through the firewall. __________________ 70 C/10 SWB 402/TH400/3.73 "The Needy Beast" 200,000 Mile Club Disc Brake Club Owner installed options: Front Sway Bar Power Steering Power Brakes Cigar Lighter Courtesy Lights Deluxe Side Markers Wiper Delay Power windows Power Locks Sniper EFI 2015 Silverado 1500 LS 4.3/6L80/3.23 lowered 2" front & rear

02-10-2017, 01:20 AM	#5
FirstOwner69 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wisconsin & Arizona Posts: 4,841	Re: What's the trick for pulling a park brake assembly? You're losing me here and, I'm, therefore, a bit confused. Is removing the cable from the assembly inside the cab one of the things you are trying to do? If so, are you saying it appears riveted to the assembly? That is not the case. If I understand, what you are seeing is a round headed pin. The other end of the pin toward the kick panel has a clip on it to retain the cable. Once the pin is removed the cable is easily removed from the cab by pulling it through the firewall from the engine side. There is a rectangular grommet in the firewall you will also need to remove. Chances are it will have a slit in it allowing it to be separated from the cable. Below are the only pictures I have that may help. The first shows the pin in place (top of pic, circled). The second shows the firewall grommet (partially hidden by harness, circled). The third shows the end of the cable with the pin removed. It's a bit of a pain to get the clip off. Attached Images

02-10-2017, 01:15 AM	#7
71CHEVYSHORTBED402 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern Nevada Posts: 7,156	Re: What's the trick for pulling a park brake assembly? Speak of dash pad it's pulled. No mystery, but those speed nuts for the studs. Discovered unless you're lucky, constant pressure between the nut and dash pad is the ticket. Otherwise you're just stripping the parts. That and GM forgot one. I thought the pad looked a little off. __________________ Tony 71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assm. guide "kit" for restoring the truck from ground up. With assys, the guide accts for 1000s details, OEM identifications & part numbers, written in short order. 700+ images of assm., illust., charts, and points of interest. Much of the info. applies to all 67-72 GM trucks, and to a lessor degree all 67-72 GM vehicles. My build thread, and more on the guide https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025

02-10-2017, 05:02 PM	#8
71CHEVYSHORTBED402 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern Nevada Posts: 7,156	Re: What's the trick for pulling a park brake assembly? And I taped off the studs on the assembly, pulled the unit toward the passenger side and down under the dash. Done. That gives me plenty to do for clean-up and notes. Thanks for everything. __________________ Tony 71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assm. guide "kit" for restoring the truck from ground up. With assys, the guide accts for 1000s details, OEM identifications & part numbers, written in short order. 700+ images of assm., illust., charts, and points of interest. Much of the info. applies to all 67-72 GM trucks, and to a lessor degree all 67-72 GM vehicles. My build thread, and more on the guide https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025

02-10-2017, 05:22 PM	#9
71CHEVYSHORTBED402 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern Nevada Posts: 7,156	Re: What's the trick for pulling a park brake assembly? For anyone reading this thread and to avoid my confusion (ha!), remove that clamp retainer off the cable and pull the cable through from the engine compartment, just as stated above (many times). Pulling the cable may provide additional clearance to remove the E-brake assembly, but I doubt it's necessary. To pull the assembly, remove the three bolts for the dash panel, driver's side. Pull the panel back, and do as stated above and you're done. I removed the dash pad to avoid damaging it while pulling the panel. That probably wasn't necessary either, but at some point I figure to remove it anyway. Amazing how easy this stuff is.........considering how hard this stuff is __________________ Tony 71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assm. guide "kit" for restoring the truck from ground up. With assys, the guide accts for 1000s details, OEM identifications & part numbers, written in short order. 700+ images of assm., illust., charts, and points of interest. Much of the info. applies to all 67-72 GM trucks, and to a lessor degree all 67-72 GM vehicles. My build thread, and more on the guide https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025

02-12-2017, 07:44 PM	#11
71CHEVYSHORTBED402 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Northern Nevada Posts: 7,156	Re: What's the trick for pulling a park brake assembly? Cleaned up the e-brake assm. Appears these are rust prone, though mine was surface rust. Any water and rust again. I figure these were due a top coat. I'll paint it. Perhaps these had a finish from factory less the black arm & pedal? I soaked it in WD-40, packed it away, and will save it for a day. The pedal pad is super. One minor flaw in the bottom RH corner. It's the only pad I havn't been able to locate new, but no shame reusing this one. On topic, this pad is part # 3948727. The book shows that for a 69-70 truck. It was the only checkered pad of the three. Perhaps I replaced it at some point, or GM was using up their inventory. And lastly here's a pic. of a Peruvian Inca Orchid. Like a wolf or coyote these are not hybrid. Other than the head, end of the tale and sometimes their feet they're hairless. Supposedly there's 1000 on Earth and we're fostering two. We did have three. As you can see they're VERY cute. She knows where the dog food is stored. However, when they play they're more like Tasmanian Devils than domestic dogs. __________________ Tony 71 Custom Deluxe, SWB, 2WD, 402, A/C. I developed an assm. guide "kit" for restoring the truck from ground up. With assys, the guide accts for 1000s details, OEM identifications & part numbers, written in short order. 700+ images of assm., illust., charts, and points of interest. Much of the info. applies to all 67-72 GM trucks, and to a lessor degree all 67-72 GM vehicles. My build thread, and more on the guide https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=730025



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