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02-25-2016, 11:18 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Erlanger, KY
Posts: 99
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Can you walk me thru this?
OK, let's all make the assumption that I don't know what the hell doing.....it's been a looooong time since I've been this deep in an engine compartment and what I learned as a teenager about working on engines is probably best lost anyway!
The Victim: Recently purchased 1978 Chevy K20 350, 4bbl (#17058503), California emissions, HEI, 4spd manual, air conditioning, 140K miles. It's Condition @ Purchase: Engine started ok but ran with a rough idle, drove rough and the mixture was very rich. Work Already Completed: 1) Replaced carburetor with rebuilt carb from Guaranteed Carburator (#17058204) 2) Removed smog pump, check valves, manifold injection tubes & associated piping, A/C compressor & associated hoses, EGR & install block plate 3) Replace and vacuum lines to brake booster, heat door accumulator, vacuum advance, 2 fuel canisters (dual tanks), hot air choke & capped all open ports. 4) Replace dead alternator & intermittent starter. Work Yet To Be Completed: 4) Tune up with new rotor, cap, wires, plugs (Bosch #7973, gap 0.60), pcv, oil & filter change, belts, hoses. 5) Install Sanderson CC17 headers & dual exhaust w/ h pipe. What's Up In The Air: I know that with a manual transmission my initial timing should be set at 8 deg TDC and roughly 32-36 deg @ 2500 - 3000 rpm total timing. My question is, with the age of the vehicle and the likelihood that it is still running it's original distributor how do I check to see if my vacuum advance is working properly? Should and how do I adjust my carburetor? Should carburetor adjustment be done before or after setting total timing if at all? Should all this be performed before mounting the headers? Any thing else I'm missing? Thanks for the help!
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1980 GMC Sierra Grande C15 1987-1992 1988 Chevy Silverado K1500 1992-1996 1978 Chevy K5 Blazer 1998-2002 1998 GMC Sierra SL K2500 2002-2010 2007 GMC Sierra Classic 2500HD LBZ 2010-Present 1978 Chevy Silverado K20 2016-Present |
02-25-2016, 11:39 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,657
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Re: Can you walk me thru this?
1. Gap your plugs at .045.
2. Install headers, then tune. 3. More initial timing. Try 14. Adjust mechanical to give you 32 at 3000 rpm. 4. Put vac hose on vac pot and use your lungs. If it snaps back it's working. 5. Vac gauge and adjust mix screws for highest vacuum. Start at 1 1/2 turns out. 6. Timing first, carb second. Link for your hei mods. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...EI_distributor |
02-25-2016, 05:08 PM | #3 |
driving is in my blood
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Mesa AZ
Posts: 5,733
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Re: Can you walk me thru this?
Removing all that cali smog crap will make you a happy man if you can.
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-78 c10 short/step: 388cid, M20, 5/5 drop, lots more. Playtoy and first vehicle. -98 c1500 x-cab: 5.7L, 17" rims, 5/6 drop, flowmaster, helper bags,NBS rear disk brakes. -02 Suburban 4x4: leveled front -CBR600F4i, CBR600RR, CBR1000RR, and standup skis DISCLAIMER: I cant spell for the life of me. |
02-25-2016, 05:52 PM | #4 | |||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Posts: 8,947
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Re: Can you walk me thru this?
Quote:
Amazing what getting your timing nailed down before doing anything to the carb can do. Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
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02-25-2016, 08:23 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Alameda, CA
Posts: 877
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Re: Can you walk me thru this?
I'd probably have gotten rid of the evap stuff if I was in your shoes.
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1973 C20, 350/350 |
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