It’s Just A Pickup

[Bruce88]

Where do all the tubes go?
The tow hitch and fuel tank plus aft fuel lines are installed.

Cleaned and applied a coat of Dupli-Color professional undercoat and sound eliminator to the Blazer style fuel tank. That stuff definitely needs a few days to dry before installing the tank. If you’re interested in how the tank was installed check out an earlier post on this build (post #252) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...318544&page=11

Might not be the best location for the vent tube high loop, but it was the best place in my mind to incorporate one. I’m installing a vapor/charcoal canister for venting the fuel tank and a vent tube high loop is needed to prevent any liquid fuel that might get into the tube from getting to the canister. Since the vent line will be exposed in the wheel well I put some ½ inch air hose over it to help prevent damage to it. Yes two holes where drilled in the frame to run the vent line out to the wheel well and back, plus some short chucks of fuel hose to compensate for bed flex to frame.



Then onto the bending and fitting the vent and fuel line to the front. I’m using 3/8 inch aluminum tube for the vent line and fuel line. This tube can be found at Summit or Jeg’s in bulk coiled up form. When I was down at the auto parts store picking up a few feet of 5/8 fuel vent hose the parts man ran back and cut me a chuck of heater hose and I had to explain to him that it would not work and after looking in the back came back with some 5/8 fuel vent hose (Watch out for what they try to sell you they may not know). I’m using the 5/8 fuel vent hose for the filler vent.

Fabricated a mount for the mid fuel fill tube from some 4 inch x 4 inch x ¼ inch angle iron and bolted it to the frame. Then used a SS exhaust clamp to mount the tube to the bracket. If your interested in the mid fuel fill tube design check out an earlier post on this build (post #76) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=318544&page=4 . The upper fuel fill tube and cap is a LMC 29-3470 Fuel Filler Neck and LMC 32-4129 Gas Cap Non Locking that are for a Chevy S10 (94-95 pickup) I did cut the tube down to 2 inches below the vent tube.



Because there is a long span between floor cross sill supports I’m adding a short cross sill just forward of the fuel tank (There was no cross sill at this location on the stock bed). Also I’m installing a custom cross sill over the fuel tank for clearance and floor support. If your interested in the custom cross sill design check out an earlier post on this build (post #106) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=318544&page=5 .

I’m a definite advocate of grounding all fuel tubes for safety. I’ve had a fire from a static spark from a bad ground when refueling a helicopter and that fuel is less volatile than gas.



Since the fuel tubes are very close to the wood floor and wanting a little cushion for the bed to sit on, I’m raising the bed up a slight amount. I have a 3/16 inch thick bed mat that I cut some 3 inch strips from to use under the sill to frame mounts and along the frame cross member (The wood floor sits on this cross member normally).



The one tool that you normally don’t see in a shop is a tube beading tool. You know that raised area at the end of the tube that you slip the hose over, it’s called a tube bead. The tube bead can not be formed with a flaring tool it requires a special beading tool and most beading tools cost $150 to $200 and up.

One low cost tube beading tool that you might consider is Earl’s Performance, EZ Tubing Beader, (tool number 008ERL for 3/8 aluminum tube) aprox cost $30 , you can find one at Summit Racing. There are some limitations with this tool, like it’s only for aluminum tube, it only works on 3/8 tube, the bead that it creates is not as high as a factory tube bead.

I’ve used this tube beader for years and found it beneficial when making my own fuel lines maybe you might find a use for it too. Hears a step by step how to use one



Now that I’ve exhausted you in a long post (sorry) no not really (smile) Enjoy your build